Electronic Ignition + Battery + Cylinder

Status
Not open for further replies.
Last picture. The side stand spring isn't fitted correctly as the spring shouldn't be bent like that.
 
One issue remains though, I'm getting hot air and a tiny bit of smoke out of the left exhaust pipe and cool air blowing out the right exhaust pipe. Does that mean I'm still only firing on the left cylinder? I checked for spark, and both sides show it just fine.

You need to do a full tickover tune up, Google bushman Amal for the full procedure but if you turn the throttle stop screw in on the right side it will chime in, then as the revs will be too high you will need to unscrew both throttle stops equal amounts to drop the revs.
 
So good luck with the chain case leak. When you take the cover off have a big bowl underneath to catch the oil. There should be 200 ml, most recommend using ATF. Check to see if oil is leaking across from crankcase via stator bolts. As far as oil leak on reassembly, clean, new O ring and judicious use of sealant, don't under or over tighten retainer nut. It's the one leak I have yet to cure. No doubt someone will say get a belt drive!

Disregarding the smoke essentially different temps means inefficient cumbustion, so either spark or fuel air mix. Be methodical and do one thing at a time, I had a similar problem, was a duff coil. I assume compression is equal, I do the stand on the kickstart test.
 
Ronnie said:
Sorry, I always screw up the terminology. Don't give up on me yet, I'll get it right eventually. When I say "kick over", I'd imagine I simply mean getting the bike started up with the engine running. The bike actually starts running but doesn't necessarily hold idle (it did hold idle the first week or so after replacing fuel line and draining and replacing old oil and fuel, etc.). Currently, I'll have to give it a very slight throttle opening to keep it from dying. There's been times where no matter what I do, the bike won't even start up - even when carbs have been tickled, and doing an initial slow priming kick. Under all of the above circumstances, I've had to keep the choke lever pulled toward me to get it to kickstart.

To clarify, the bike won't run when I push the lever away from me. If I have it pulled toward me on the bike, it does run. The below picture shows the position I have to have the lever at in order to run.

I appreciate all the advice and patience.
Click to expand...




For the Rita Lucas : Al Osborn
http://www.aoservices.co.uk/info/RITA.pdf
 
I believe your ignition is fine.

As stated numerous ways, one of your carbs is either shy a bit of low-speed mixture adjustment, or it still has the low speed passageway gummed up just a bit. A half-hour soak of the bare carb bodies in a one-gallon can of Berryman's Chem-Dip (leave the can in the sun to warm it up). You'll be fine.
 
Well done for sorting it so far,
As others have said it now needs tuning and carb balancing
Have a good read up this and cable tie the carburetor splitter (2 into 1 cable) to the frame or you may end up chasing your tail
 
Is your right side plug black and sooty, or are they both a tan/ brown colour? Also check Bushmans site for the balancing section with the drill bits.
 
When you open the chaincase be prepared to dump a lot of oil on your exhaust pipe. So do it cold!

As for fixing the leak, check the o-ring for damage and the face of the case for any nicks or gouges. Repair gouges with JB Weld and a file. Check to see if the inner case is properly shimmed and not distorted by tension. Then my favorite fix is to remove the o-ring, run a bead of high temp RTV in the groove, push the o-ring back in and place the cover on tightened to finger tight. Let the RTV set. Remove cover, clean excess RTV away and now tighten cover with tension.

As for what else to check while in there. The list is short...just check everything!
 
Northton said:
Is your right side plug black and sooty, or are they both a tan/ brown colour? Also check Bushmans site for the balancing section with the drill bits.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the delay, I wasn’t able to get back to the bike yesterday but am now with it again. Here is a photo of the spark plugs. I haven’t attempted to fire it up today, so these are out from cold...

Electronic Ignition + Battery + Cylinder
 
Adjusted and synced carbs per Bushman, and now back to square one. Bike won’t fire up. See video of synced carbs...

 
Thanks everyone! Happy to say the problems have all been figured out and bike is running nicely now, took her out Saturday and Sunday - and boy was it fun to drive.

In case anyone's still curious, the problem was actually a result of several items needing attention and was resolved accordingly:

- Carbs were cleaned and synced twice (some how the throttle needle came off the clip at some point after the first round, which was causing the backfire issues)
- Replaced the battery the 3 year old battery, which was losing voltage heavily on loads, with a new Odyssey PC625
- Replaced the poor/dimly firing spark plugs with a new set
- Fixed a loose connection in the ignition switch

Onto the next adjustments, which I'll post as a separate thread.
 
Ronnie said:
Thanks everyone! Happy to say the problems have all been figured out and bike is running nicely now, took her out Saturday and Sunday - and boy was it fun to drive.

In case anyone's still curious, the problem was actually a result of several items needing attention and was resolved accordingly:

- Carbs were cleaned and synced twice (some how the throttle needle came off the clip at some point after the first round, which was causing the backfire issues)
- Replaced the battery the 3 year old battery, which was losing voltage heavily on loads, with a new Odyssey PC625
- Replaced the poor/dimly firing spark plugs with a new set
- Fixed a loose connection in the ignition switch

Onto the next adjustments, which I'll post as a separate thread.
Click to expand...
well done mate, don't ever be afraid to ask any question on here
there are lots of things that are unique to norton commando's
like the grease nipple on the swing arm actually needs oil not grease for example,,,,,, cheers
 
Ronnie said:
Thanks everyone! Happy to say the problems have all been figured out and bike is running nicely now, took her out Saturday and Sunday - and boy was it fun to drive.

In case anyone's still curious, the problem was actually a result of several items needing attention and was resolved accordingly:

- Carbs were cleaned and synced twice (some how the throttle needle came off the clip at some point after the first round, which was causing the backfire issues)
- Replaced the battery the 3 year old battery, which was losing voltage heavily on loads, with a new Odyssey PC625
- Replaced the poor/dimly firing spark plugs with a new set
- Fixed a loose connection in the ignition switch

Onto the next adjustments, which I'll post as a separate thread.
Click to expand...
Glad you got it sorted, thanks for the update.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

jseng1
Can electronic ignitions do this?
2 3 4 5 6 7
Replies
123
Views
2,818
ashman
ashman
Yorkie
Wassell Electronic Ignition Issue
Replies
9
Views
1,532
Yorkie
Yorkie
baz
Electronic ignition
Replies
8
Views
440
baz
baz
milfordite
650SS magneto or electronic ignition
2
Replies
28
Views
1,503
acotrel
acotrel
Connie73
Total loss ignition system and Lithium Battery
2
Replies
27
Views
477
Mitkev
M
Back
Top