Do You Ride W/ Lights On In Daylight?

debby said:

Debby
one mirror
no turn signals
lights out

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Uncertain future? (I didn't want to put future organ donor)

A better charging system and running with the lights on is cheap life insurance, a headlight modulator (I will probably make one for my bike) is an added bonus. Two mirrors AND looking over your shoulder are basic life saving moves.

Jean

I'm using a tiny halogen bulb on my Chang with a larger bulb for the main beams. Not sure if I want blue light on my Norton though as I like it to look old.
broken link removed

Nowadays I do not need to charge the battery (except during the winter when the bike is parked) on my original -74 MK2A, it stays charged at all times.

I use the original 120 w alternator and I always run with the 60 w Head light on (safety reason) + tail/brake light + indicator lights but I'm running a modified points ignition system with decreased power consumption. After the AA unit was modified with a bushing and a different cam profile the power consumption is no longer exceeding what the 120 w alternator can deliver.
On top of the decreased power consumption the engine is now also easier to start and has a smoother low rev running.
I'll try to post a few pictures that shows the modified AA unit if anyone would be interested.

Cheers,
Per

When I bought my "S" new in 1969, I ran with the headlight on, not because it was the law, but because I felt it was just a little more visible by the car drivers. I also ran stock point ignition and I can't remember a time when the battery went flat. I think time has not been kind on old Lucas alternators and the magnets may have lost their magnetism since so many seem to have charging problems. It is probably a good idea to get a new higher output alternator when rebuilding a bike or do as many do, have a trickle charger to top the battery up after a ride.

Per, please post pictures of your points ignition, I'm interested.

Jean

I really like the Sparx three-phase alternator. The difference it has made in how soon my battery tender changes from "charging" to "charged" convinces me it's doing a heckuva job.

I haven't tried the heated gear on the Snorter yet but I may have to try....

Dr_Hiller said:

Year of manufacture doesn't matter in Washington State - motorcycles need headlights on during the day. (we also need turn signals and two mirrors - was ticketed for the latter)

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That's interesting Dr. Here in Mass I was able to get inspected/legal without turn signals on my 73. But I thought it prudent to install some for nighttime riding (hand signals not so effective then). Only remaining Lucas parts on my bike are the tail light (which works fine) and the handlebar switches (which don't always). So now I sweat each inspection - will my newly installed indicators actually work?

So far, so good.

In Florida, lights are required for daytime running. One mirror, no turn signals, no helmet required if over 21 and with $10K medical insurance. No inspection. Registration costs about $30/year, and a motorcycle endorsement is required on your license. Motor vehicle insurance is not required for bikes, but you are financially responsible if found at fault in a crash.

I haven't had a problem running my 850 with lights. I did replace my rotor with the Emgo/Wassel replica because the original got loose, and I didn't think staking the rotor was worth the risk of the rotor separating.

I don't use a battery tender and I use a no-name battery ($29.99). I put the Boyer ignition on the bike when I built it. The bike rarely goes for more than a couple of days between outings, and have put about 4500 miles on since October.

Jeandr said:

debby said:

Debby
one mirror
no turn signals
lights out

Click to expand...

Uncertain future? (I didn't want to put future organ donor)

A better charging system and running with the lights on is cheap life insurance, a headlight modulator (I will probably make one for my bike) is an added bonus. Two mirrors AND looking over your shoulder are basic life saving moves.

Jean

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Running with lights on might reduce the number of your right of way violations by car drivers, but it won't put a complete stop to them. So you still have to ride in such a way as to be able to avoid the bad car people. Putting lights on and assuming you'll be seen is slow suicide.

I am not saying put the light on and turn the brain off, but running with the light on gives added visibility, and a headlight modulator still more.

Ride safe, often and for a long time

Jean

Jeandr said:

I am not saying put the light on and turn the brain off, but running with the light on gives added visibility, and a headlight modulator still more.

Ride safe, often and for a long time

Jean

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I'm a daily rider and have been for almost 50 years and we agree. :wink:

Mr Fastback

I agree whole heartedly, I had the same problem with my Boyer. I was fouling plugs like crazy. A new sealed battery of a few more amps has helped. I just got a warning ticket a few weeks ago for no headlight. The trooper wasn't interested in the failure of Lucas charging systems. I quote him "I would rather have you run out of juice than get run over." I couldn't argue....he was right! Being seen is the best defense we can have. I have just received the Sparx 210 watt three phase kit. Will install the first chance I get. That should take care of the Halogen headlight and the Boyer even at idle. And I will run the headlight all the time.

Lights on

Ouch, too many safety police.

David

Bulb suggestions

I have read this post with interest and to be truthful its not something i have thought about much before, With winter coming on here it gets dark around 5pm so i thought i would take a dusk ride and see what my charge did, I only measured by the gauge in the headlight and on pilot anything over 2k was charging, with headlight on anything under 3k was sitting on one mark in the negative until the brake brake went on then it dropped 2 full marks to the left. I rarely ride at this time so while i have a good charge in the day with no lights on 1.5 marks in the positive i dont want to play with things (if it aint broke dont fix it) but i would like to lessen the draw. Sorry about the long winded approach but heres the question
Quote "There are halogen replacements available for the pilot bulb which are supposed to give off a pretty bright light for daytime driving but I have no experience with them." Does someone know a part number ? and is there a good replacement for the tail light bulb that will not draw so much?, The altmeter gauge does not light up when the tacho and speedo do, is it supposed to? I have recently moved and my manuals are packed so i cant look at diagrams right at the instant.to see if theres a bulb

I have pazon ignition and the bike goes on a battery tender all the time. 1970 750 S

Thanks as always for the knowledge

PS. good or bad i am in the Debby stable , no signals no daytime lights, tho i have recently put on an aftermarket mirror much to my chagrin. but i do have a bright yellow bike so that must count for something

Rockyrob- my opinion is that your charging system is inadequate (or the load is too great), if it can't balance the lights load under 3000rpm. How high do you have to rev to show a charge?

If you don't want to buy a super alternator, there are various LED rear lamps and 35W halogen headlights, but I don't know who sells them in Australia.

Thanks Triton That was my initial thought after reading the gauges also. I am sure running with lights would slowly flatten the battery as most of my riding is city stop start. I will pull the bulbs and go to my local auto electrician and see what sort of replacments are on offer. I am electrophobic and it is the one part of tinkering i just dont cope with well.The alternator is a combination of the stator (outside ring) and the rotor (inside magnet) is that correct.? So given that,is replacing the alternator simply a matter of removing threee screws and a connection after dropping the primary cover and pulling and replacing the rotor, or do i have to start playing with all that other stuff mentioned, i.e rectifiers, bower boxes,timing and the like.

My battery is 5 yold or so , so i plan to treat the bike to a new one today with the colder weather coming on


Cheers

Rockyrob said:

I am electrophobic and it is the one part of tinkering i just dont cope with well.The alternator is a combination of the stator (outside ring) and the rotor (inside magnet) is that correct.?

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Yes.

Rockyrob said:

So given that,is replacing the alternator simply a matter of removing threee screws and a connection after dropping the primary cover and pulling and replacing the rotor, or do i have to start playing with all that other stuff mentioned, i.e rectifiers, bower boxes,timing and the like.

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If you intended to upgrade to a more powerful alternator, then the normal choice would be the three phase version, as that produces significantly more output at lower revs.
There's the option of replacing the stator only, if the rotor magnets are still sufficiently strong, otherwise both rotor and stator should be replaced and the original rotor will probably have lost some of its magnetism. The original rectifier and Zener would also have to be replaced with a suitable three phase voltage control box, but it's not a particularly difficult job to do, and you can always ask for assistance here if you need to know anything?
Three phase alternators can be bought as a kit that includes the rotor, stator and control box, from a Sparx supplier.

The Lucas ammeters are not the greatest for accuracy. I would temporarily hook up a real meter (borrow a decent digital multimeter like those made by Fluke) to verify the breakeven RPM before going out and spending a lot of money for a 3 phase alternator kit.

Russ

It might be a silly question but if i upgrade to a 3 phase with a power box am i creating more potential problems with the additional power, or is it as i think not related to the overal wiring of the bike but more just a route back into the battery for topping up

Rockyrob said:

It might be a silly question but if i upgrade to a 3 phase with a power box am i creating more potential problems with the additional power, or is it as i think not related to the overal wiring of the bike but more just a route back into the battery for topping up

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The only added complication of a three phase system is one extra wire between the stator and the rectifier (or power box), it's all gain, it shouldn't cause any problems in service.