Cush Drive Hubs

madass140 · Feb 26, 2013

the 3 pockets for the cush drive are tapered, the pockets I think are cast not machined, I'm wondering
what the reason is by having them tapered, 2 things come to mind:
(1) ease of casting
(2) its easier to fit the sprocket lugs even though they are tapered as well.
Because they are tapered means that the initial load on the drum lugs is at the worst possible point
which is at the end of the lug not at the other riveted end which would increase the chances of the
lug coming loose as they often do.
Your thoughts

Hobot · Feb 26, 2013

Now this is a sore subject to me, but my guess is Norton designer thought the tapper would allow wedging in the rubber cushions to preserve them from rubbing and beating apart by any slack. Best plans of mice and Norton men don't quite work out for very long in my case. if you make your own cushions say from tire cases then should trim corners to fit the hole radius more or less to seat snug in hole. I glue mine in with what ever goop handy. Better if pegs-drum inserted while setting up. Helps speed up the fast wheel change dumb axle feature.

madass140 · Feb 26, 2013

maybe a hub with square not tapered holes would be a better option?

Hobot · Feb 26, 2013

Personally I don't think it'd matter one whitworth if still retaining only 3 force focusing finger size pegs that are prone to wiggle loose and twist. The mutliple vane type of later 850 seems is better approach and most similar to most moderns hub cushions. I think some have greased their pegs then stuck em in holes filled with their favorite tough set up goop. Best wishes getting some sleep figuring out a better way that fits.

madass140 · Feb 26, 2013

well, putting a straight peg in an angled hole doesnt seem like a good idea,

Brooking 850 · Feb 26, 2013

Hi Don,Steve, FWIW, to keep a neat and firm fit in there with the sprocket drive pegs, I use a rubber called Shutex, pink in colour, high impact, but compliant.
I use 2x pieces ,equal on either side of the peg, and the sheet thickness I use is a perfect size for 2 x pieces plus the peg.
I cut them wide enough to get a grip on the sides of the hub so no need for glue.
Regards Mike

Onder · Feb 26, 2013

Source?

madass140 · Feb 26, 2013

for some reason my post was deleted Hmmmm.

Hobot · Feb 26, 2013

Hm ok may have to try that Brookings, but might be hard to find in Dixieland.
Shutex stuff
http://www.google.ca/webhp?hl=en&tab=ww ... 33&bih=307

What ya got in mind maddasses? Pretty tricky milling tool job to cut a square hole. Seems like a job for JBW to me with a greased wood block to mold the space. It cushions chew up can always re do the JBW til next time.

Best material I for cushions out of was fiber layered HD rubber conveyor belt used for rock crusher, but finally ran out replacing Peels and then Trixies

Another way would be a spring loaded chain tensioner.

madass140 · Feb 26, 2013

see if my post gets deleted again.
I figure the tapered holes are for easier casting, square holes would definitely have to be an improvement,
it seems no one manufactures cush drive hubs for Commando, I have been considering this for some time.
with casting the pockets if the pockets are not exactly 120 degrees apart this will hasten the demise of the
riveted lugs, CNC machining square holes would be the best option on a new casting,

Hobot · Feb 26, 2013

Ok, this incremental upgrades stuff splits me right down the middle. I am of two completely split brains, duh, one side says keep it pure as can be by the good book, the other side says just keep the frame and forks with some mods and completely jump the F--k away from anything really Norton obsolete POS. This is why I can't win an internal logic decision contest to get your solid axle upgrade. Its more than enough for the likes of Trixie Combat but not for likes of cargo hauler rough rider Peel. I also got to looking around at new age bar controls and got blown right out of water on alloy billet slenderized short lever UFO wonders.

Anyway I encourage all experiments and creativity so see what ya can come up with but my physics tell me its not that out of square to bother with what you would be taking on. Maybe come up with a mold for a bootie to fit around the pegs then stuff in.

Roller bearing side stand upgrade would be a hot cake of sales, even for me.

Time Warp · Feb 27, 2013

madass140 said:
see if my post gets deleted again.
I figure the tapered holes are for easier casting, square holes would definitely have to be an improvement,
it seems no one manufactures cush drive hubs for Commando, I have been considering this for some time.
with casting the pockets if the pockets are not exactly 120 degrees apart this will hasten the demise of the
riveted lugs, CNC machining square holes would be the best option on a new casting,

If you made a new casting why not change the drive pins to round then Ducati style round cush elements could be used.

https://www.brocksperformance.com/Cush- ... 8+C72.aspx

madass140 · Feb 27, 2013

and supply a new style sprocket/drum to match?

JRD · Feb 27, 2013

With detachable sprocket ?
having a real cush drive would definitively an improvement

madass140 · Feb 27, 2013

yes it would be, but my plan was only to fill a gap where there are no new hubs available,
I have no plans or intentions of manufacturing a retro fit hub sprocket assembly,
new cush drive hubs are not available and good used ones are getting used up not just
on Commandos but with a lot of Featherbed based projects.
there is definitely a market there , If I proceed it will be a direct replacement for
the stock item but with square not tapered cush drive pockets.

domiracer66 · Feb 27, 2013

madass140 said:
see if my post gets deleted again.
I figure the tapered holes are for easier casting, square holes would definitely have to be an improvement,
it seems no one manufactures cush drive hubs for Commando, I have been considering this for some time.
with casting the pockets if the pockets are not exactly 120 degrees apart this will hasten the demise of the
riveted lugs, CNC machining square holes would be the best option on a new casting,

Did you measure the taper? Based on a 1" depth the draft angle should be 2 to 3 degrees.

madass140 · Feb 27, 2013

its 4 to 4.5 degrees. theoretically it should be 0.

domiracer66 · Feb 27, 2013

What is the depth?

domiracer66 · Feb 28, 2013

hobot said:
What ya got in mind maddasses? Pretty tricky milling tool job to cut a square hole. Seems like a job for JBW to me with a greased wood block to mold the space.

Square holes a la milling tool:

http://youtu.be/rI-15fovYEY

or you could simply use a broach...

madass140 · Feb 28, 2013

just under 1" depth, at least with square holes the rubbers are less likely to work their way out that 4 or 5mm.

Cush Drive Hubs

madass140

Hobot

madass140

Hobot

madass140

Brooking 850

Onder

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Hobot

madass140

Hobot

Time Warp

.......back to the 70's.

madass140

JRD

madass140

domiracer66

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domiracer66

domiracer66

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