Crankshaft Alternator Nut will not budge

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I would like the OP (Johnny) to tell us what he is doing with all the suggestions that have been presented. Any other contributors have similar thoughts?

Best.
 
I think the PO rat-assed the threads and galled them therefore pretty much doing some serious damage to male & female thread sections. My thoughts are that even rocking back & forth gaining movement is going to be the threads shearing. Right now it could only be the nut as that should be a sacrificial material, although given enough force/heat the sky could become the limit.
I know it goes against the consensus, but my move would be to cut my loses and sacrifice rotor & nut now rather than place more risk on the crank, which further experimenting may do.... That's just my thoughts on the subject
 
RoadScholar said:
I would like the OP (Johnny) to tell us what he is doing with all the suggestions that have been presented. Any other contributors have similar thoughts?

Best.
Click to expand...
Agreed, at this point he has not even provided a single photo of where he is at with this process.... the arrangement of the sleeved nut makes this a really difficult problem.. but to use heat you need to get it right. after having another look at the arrangement on my bike , i realize that it is not really easy to determine if the problem is his nut is stuck on the thread or if it is jammed in the rotor.

think i will shut my trap now and wait to see how it goes.
 
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The rotor nut is a sleeve nut (this has been mentioned).
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/16346/rotor-nut-06-0387-

The end of the crank should be set well back inside the nut. If the shallow nut hexagon is cut/ground/chiselled off then the rotor should (at least theoretically) slide off and the remaining section of threaded sleeve can then be attended to.

Crankshaft Alternator Nut will not budge
 
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The Hack probably loctited the rotor on as well. The idea of machining the head off the nut seems ok. Maybe a puller to destroy the rotor off. I have seen some strange things that hacks have done to Nortons, and there has been plenty of hack advice on this forum as well.,
 
I know this will sound absurd since the facts presented by the OP contradicts this: but I just flat-A$$ can't accept that that nut cannot be removed by fairly normal methods. Yeah, Yeah, I know...the reality of what's happening says different. :(

In any case, it will be most interesting to read the final solution which, I hope, will include some info as to what was holding that nut so tightly,
 
L.A.B. said:
The rotor nut is a sleeve nut (this has been mentioned).
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/16346/rotor-nut-06-0387-

The end of the crank should be set well back inside the nut. If the shallow nut hexagon is cut/ground/chiselled off then the rotor should (at least theoretically) slide off and the remaining section of threaded sleeve can then be attended to.

Crankshaft Alternator Nut will not budge
Click to expand...

yeah i was aware that its a sleeve nut... I'd have already had the grinder out and ground the head of the nut off. and been prepared to buy a new rotor if necessary...
 
Wait a minute here..... Who all was trying to pull the nuts off their cranks here? I see two guys admitting to it. .. I've become confused thinking of only one.

Talking about the bikes.
 
Congratulations on removing it AND on having the patience to keep at it and NOT destroy parts to do so. What was holding it so tightly, rust/corrosion/buggered threads/loctite/what?

I was under the impression that you had tried impact wrenches earlier with no success. If so, I would be interested in hearing the specific models that didn't work. Actually, a more important question is: what brand/type wrench did the job?
 
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If you still use an airwrench then it will matter a fair amount how much line pressure you have. My home shop compressor wont make much over
125 pounds. In a real shop you can get a lot more. Big difference.
 
Onder said:
If you still use an airwrench then it will matter a fair amount how much line pressure you have. My home shop compressor wont make much over
125 pounds. In a real shop you can get a lot more. Big difference.
Click to expand...

100 psi is usually enough, but you also need air flow. An impact wrench will empty a small tank in a hurry.
 
Was too early and half asleep... misunderstood one of the previous post.
Glad you were successful.
 
Congradulations....

I mentioned earlier that I had an older gun that wouldn't perform a function and replaced it.
The older one was a Campbell Hausfield, 120 psi gun.

The new gun is a 90 psi, "Twin Hammer".
Not sure how or what the Twin Hammer is, but it works fabulous, outperforms the older gun all day.

Don't know the specs on the cordless gun used, But I am suspecting it and most newer guns to be a 'Twin Hammer'.
 

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