Commstock head steady rod end

StephenVargas · Nov 11, 2021

dero said:
I am trying to source a replacement tie rod end for my head steady .
I can't contact Jim & Matt can't supply them .
NYC does not seem to list them on the web site.
The only one that seems to match is a Yamaha / FRAP part .
Anyone got a source for them ?
I may have to buy the Yamaha part & make it fit .
The last I heard Matt was replacing the worn ones he sold with an upgraded version .
Any info would be greatly appreciated .

Do check the size of yours before buying any

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SteveA · Nov 11, 2021

StephenVargas said:
Do check the size of yours before buying any

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Nope....you lost me with that link!

To the OP, If I was looking for a supplier in the UK/France I would start by looking for race car parts supplier. UK I would start with Demon Tweeks, but there are other much more specialised outlets.

They use these type or rod ends in suspension links and area a bit more picky about quality that the average ebay vendor.

In the end though, your $50 Yamaha part might work out fine? Rather depends what it's intended use was. Suspension? And if you are prepared to machine it to fit.

mdt-son · Nov 11, 2021

Guys,
I suspect abnormal wear in tie-rods is due to sagging of the front iso (which is overloaded - addition of the head steady spring of the Mk3 is a mitigation only). It would be interesting to know if wear develops in the head steady tie-rod fitted on Jim's own bike, which has a spring support under the crankcase.

- Knut

grandpaul · Nov 11, 2021

The spring does mitigate the sag/squash factor.

Only thing that will mitigate the deterioration factor is quality of the new replacement unit. Some are better than others.

Stephen Hill · Nov 15, 2021

Because the double rose joint is adjustable in length, somewhat like a turnbuckle, you adjust the length to a neutral position for the original install. Not a bad idea to check on that once in a while, in case that neutral position changes over time due to "iso sag".

wavey_davey · Nov 17, 2021

I'm interested in this discussion as one of the items on my winter "to do" list is fit a DT type head steady, probably from RGM?
Given the effort Jim has gone to, to reduce wear on his item, and threads such as this one relating to wear anyway, is it safe to assume the rose joints on these types of head steadies are "consumables" to greater or lesser degrees? Not having a go at any particular design here, just want to understand the ownership experience? I noted the comment on isolastic sag exacerbating wear (possibly).

Derek Wilson · Nov 17, 2021

I have had a "panhard rod" head steady of my own design on my bike since 2003. The rod ends that I used are the dry type and have not worn at all since I built it. I do not lubricate them. It has been pretty much fit and forget.

As stated earlier, I do think that it is important that the rod be adjusted so that there is no preload on it in the neutral state.

"Isolastic Sag" - While the original rubbers I took out in the early 2000's where heavily deformed, I have not experienced this with the Mk3 style isolastics on my bike. They have been in there for nearly 20 years. I had the front isolastic out last year to replace the gaiters, and it was not deformed at all after 18 years. The rear seems fine too - still plenty of clearance between the primary case and the Z-plate. Are the newer versions more prone to sagging??

Mark Savage · Nov 30, 2021

Having bought and fitted one of the Colorado Norton Works, Jim Comstock designed , head steadies from Holland Norton Works it would be nice to hear that genuine spares are available, if needed, from any of those three.

Onder · Nov 30, 2021

Well did anyone ping them?

dero · Nov 30, 2021

I have been in touch with Jim , he was his usual helpful self .
Looks like one is on its way .

cNw · Nov 30, 2021

Hi all,

I visited Jim’s shop two weekends ago and we decided that I will take over the manufacturing of the Comstock head steady.

Making some slight design changes and the parts are currently being modeled by one of the machine shops I work with. It will go into production in a few weeks when the programming and fixturing is done.

I will also make available the rod assembly in case someone wants to replace just that part.

If you are interested in having me contact you when available get a hold of me at the shop.

nortonworks@fone.net

Thanks,

Matt

Jdub · Feb 16, 2022

If you want to try McMaster Carr the closest item I found is part number Male = 60645K13 and Female = 60645K33. I have an original Dave Taylor that is blockish and very much an artifact (original first run?). For $15.00 I am going to replace the worn Rose/Heim/TieRod ends and see what happens. I am mindful that there are better quality parts (Matt, above) so probably this will not pan out as I expect. Wish me luck!

dobba99 · Feb 17, 2022

Jdub said:
If you want to try McMaster Carr the closest item I found is part number Male = 60645K13 and Female = 60645K33. I have an original Dave Taylor that is blockish and very much an artifact (original first run?). For $15.00 I am going to replace the worn Rose/Heim/TieRod ends and see what happens. I am mindful that there are better quality parts (Matt, above) so probably this will not pan out as I expect. Wish me luck!

View attachment 85034

Those are the wrong type of rod end bearing for this kind of installation, i'm not surprised they have worn out. Better rod ends are available, look for ptfe lined, race/aero quality ones. and fit a gaiter/rubber boot to keep the crap out. The ones fitted to the Holland norton works steady look like modified car steering joints. Looking at the cost of a car steering joint (and more to the point, the environment and forces involved in steering a car) this would be my choice of joint.

concours · Feb 17, 2022

Derek Wilson said:
I have had a "panhard rod" head steady of my own design on my bike since 2003. The rod ends that I used are the dry type and have not worn at all since I built it. I do not lubricate them. It has been pretty much fit and forget.

As stated earlier, I do think that it is important that the rod be adjusted so that there is no preload on it in the neutral state.

"Isolastic Sag" - While the original rubbers I took out in the early 2000's where heavily deformed, I have not experienced this with the Mk3 style isolastics on my bike. They have been in there for nearly 20 years. I had the front isolastic out last year to replace the gaiters, and it was not deformed at all after 18 years. The rear seems fine too - still plenty of clearance between the primary case and the Z-plate. Are the newer versions more prone to sagging??

Typically teflon impregnated bronze bushings, amazing stuff, so long as there is no rust and little dirt exposure.

Commstock head steady rod end

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