Commando disassembly ...New Questions

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powerdoc

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I have a '75 mk3 that's been long neglected and I need to tear it down. Is there a recognized order to the disassembly or do I just start removing and bagging parts? References appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 
Re: Commando disassembly order

Well, I know I had the same question when i tore mine apart. I ended up just going at it - making sure to have everything very well photographed and a parts and workshop manual beside me. Old Britts has an article on a disassembly order. Go to the below link, scroll down to "Build or Restore Your Own Commando" click on it then scroll down to "Dismantling a Norton Commando"

http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_start.html
 
Re: Commando disassembly order

Id get some crates , and keep seperate assembies in Ea.i.e. Engine , Primary , Trans , etc etc .

Aerosol Chainsaw bar lube is good presservative for machined surfaces.

Id tend to Hot Tank or Pressure Wash / Degrease most of it at once, before crateing.
Getting the grubby stage over immediately. Thereafter it should all be unadulterated pleasure. :D
Other than financially . :P
 
Re: Commando disassembly order

Josh Cox said:
My first restoration, the bottom link to the BSA, I photographed, bagged, tagged and manifested everything.

The second restoration, the Norton, i just took lots of photos.

Suggestion: with photos, lots of close ups, look at which way the guards are mounted, which way around the washers go on bolts, that sort of level of detail.

http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n229 ... ?start=all

http://s113.photobucket.com/albums/n229 ... ?start=all

All dead on.
I use lots of ziplock bags of various sizes to keep all related parts together.
 
Re: Commando disassembly order

Yep,
1) Keep your charge cards handy.
2) Pics, pics, pics, lots of ziplock bags and a sharpie marker, rags and drain containers. Make notes on the bags of what it is inside. Put the bags into segregated boxes. Keep it all in one place. Do each system as one sub-project, ie brakes, switches...
Some thing are much easier loosened for final disassembly while still on the bike, be cognizant of this.
Unless this will be quickly reassembled without interruption also do this:
Do not rely on memory. Get yourself a little notebook. Patiently make notes of tools you need but don't have. Make diagrams. Make a list in the notebook of what will need to be replaced as it comes off. I copy the parts book diagrams and highlight the needed replacements as I go along.
Mark the elec connectors with a line, use matching red, black, red and black on similar connectors. Maybe this here is overkill, but safe. Masking tape on individual connectors with ID letter and a corresponding note in my little notebook.
I'm telling you this because a few pints of attitude adjustment later it will all be a bit fuzzy.
3) some little parts are not available as new and are difficult to find used, so be careful unless you can make it. The MKIII has a fair amount of interchangeability with previous models with the remainder peculiar to itself.
4) the books and parts sites are not always 100% correct.
5) refer to tip #1

all the best.
 
Re: Commando disassembly order

Thanks for the replies. I already have been computing what's going to have to go on the charge card. I know the brakes are toast and although there's less than 8k on the clock it smokes. There are too many of these around just to let it stay unrestored for the "patina" of it so I'll make it look good, which'll mean a lot of chroming. One of my daughters' father in law has found a good place in Canada that does it; supposedly EPA rules have make the price of chroming here much higher. I was wondering what to do with the myriad of empty plastic storage containers that my wife has collected, I guess this is as good a place for them as any. Then there's the painting. Cha-ching, cha-ching etc etc. So it's tear down first , then find the hidden things that I thought were good but aren't. My grandson may actually be old enough to help me by the time this finishes, although I've got a couple of issues of an old Brit classic bike magazine where Hemmings built one up in 2 days.....the advantage of having done it before.

That being said, what special tools will I need that can't be worked around? I have a few Whitworth wrenches and sockets-will I need a full set or will SAE's suffice? I really don't care about keeping the bike completely authentic, it'll be a rider. What areas are the typical improvements? I know front brakes are talked about and the brake cylinder, is there any universally accepted improvement ? Is it just the front brake or the rear too? For the time I'll put up with the Amals. The exhaust has been changed to a 2 into 1; any good or bad from this? I have the original 2 pipe setup too but I'll have to get new peashooters. I have a Rita on it; I've already put a 4 pole starter on it.

My theory of fixing things is that the professional has the proper tool and he's done it before; If I buy the tools and I'm not afraid to do it more than once I'll do it!
 
I know one thing for sure, the last thing in your hands will be that bloody horn. :lol:

Cash
 
The horn should be fitted as soon as possible when re-asembling, as many here will say " The bike Is built around the horn"
Most imperial sockets are all you need, there will be certain Whitworth sockets & spanners that are essential: 1/4 withortth being one of the most essential.

You appear to mentally prepared for the things "you thought were alright but weren't" there will be plenty of this.

As for Hemmings building one in 2 days. I thought I'd have my 850 MK2 done in 3 months. 6 to 7 months now & still going.
Need to make a final parts order & 6-7 days work to complete at this stage.

Given the age of these bikes, Isolastic rubber deterioration is an issue. These should be replaced as a matter of course no matter how little the bike has been used.

Enjoy your time learning, replacing & repairing. Don't let it stress you out. It should be an enjoyable experience apart from your credit card.

Best of luck & regards:
Sweenz
 
HORN? I thought this was a joke 'til I googled it. Reading about it, though, it is a joke apparently as it's usefulness on the road was nil!. I figured a Freon horn held tight against the other drivers ear would work.
 
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