Clubman Racing rear sets experience

flashbackk said:

This is what i believe, Flashbackk, yours would not work with the old kicker and mine wouldn't work with the new. I truly believe this. I can't say why but i know what I know and have no reason doubt you.

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Ya......... I have no explanation.

I guess we settled that..!!!!! :roll: :roll:

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Believe there are significant differences in bends of the kickers from different years so perhaps not so surprising. I switched out kickers with my Dominator and currently have a MKIII kicker installed on my 74 Commando and it clears the Norvil rearsets just fine.

Old Britts has some nice photos showing differences in the bends

gortnipper said:

tpeever said:

I bought a set of the Norvil rearsets and have been very happy with them. Very well made and they work well. Unfortunately, I do not have any photos of them on the bike but here they are after unpacking. Quality stuff.

Now I just need to figure out how to run the brake light switch!!

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What about getting a Venhill cable with the inline switch? I bought one for the rearsets I have (I think they are 80s old britss/hemmings) because I hate the little switch that always comes to pieces...havent put it on yet tho.

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Good thought!! Need to check that out. Might simplify things considerably!!

Do you have a part number and supplier in US? Thanks

Tobin

tpeever said:

gortnipper said:

tpeever said:

I bought a set of the Norvil rearsets and have been very happy with them. Very well made and they work well. Unfortunately, I do not have any photos of them on the bike but here they are after unpacking. Quality stuff.

Now I just need to figure out how to run the brake light switch!!

Click to expand...

What about getting a Venhill cable with the inline switch? I bought one for the rearsets I have (I think they are 80s old britss/hemmings) because I hate the little switch that always comes to pieces...havent put it on yet tho.

Click to expand...

Good thought!! Need to check that out. Might simplify things considerably!!

Do you have a part number and supplier in US? Thanks

Tobin

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I have recently received and installed a cable with inline switch from OlBrits... I Ordered the one that "suits most rearsets" from their cable lists......... It Fits and works but with the/my Clubman rear set, its angleswhere the outer cables secures at the locating points are far too tight........ I strongly recommend that you get a "standard Length cable" to reduce the binding of the outer cable ends..

This will work and as seen is with brake fullly applied by hand.. It will wear the outer cable quickly.... On olbritts site it give you the "lengths" of cables and the lenght of this one (suits most rearsets) ..It needs to be 50mm/2inches longer i reckon.. Possible similiar to standard cable that i dont have to compare with.. This is with Clubman R/S i know nothing about other makes of RS's



I chose 4. @17 inches, shoulda gone the 19"or more
http://www.oldbritts.com/15_060482.html

Are these cables with inline switches reliable? Seems like there is a lack of consensus out there that they actually work. It is definitely a neater solution than trying to hook up an external switch but I want to make sure I put together something that works!!

tpeever said:

Are these cables with inline switches reliable? Seems like there is a lack of consensus out there that they actually work. It is definitely a neater solution than trying to hook up an external switch but I want to make sure I put together something that works!!

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I got the one in the picture working after a bit of stuffing around.. The internals are very basic and work on the amount of "compression" applied to the cable via the foot pedal.. The outer cable is in two pieces and has a bit off freeplace within the switch housing,.. You will notice on above pic the the electrical bayonet is at the 9oclock posistion and the other is at 3oclock..... the "contacts" works in this position, if in the 12oclock-6oclock they wont contact under pressure... The design would be "OK" on a straight pull, but when in applications where tight corners are involved, as above pic, it will work but :? :? :? :? :? ... I used it to eliminate original type swich but now having second thoughts....

In saying all that it probably works well for most applications providing you buy long as possible.. (Ella did email me and said they were discontinuing some of there switch inbuilt cables, so email first if you want to purchase.. I noted the Standard Length/inbuilt switch is now not available)

I've seen pictures of the original type switch mounted on a bracket on the actual rear brake plate on some PRs, but can't find any photos.
Unsurprising, as I recall it being a fairly ugly installation!

This was an interesting and timely thread for me too. After weighing up all the relative pros and cons, I've decided to go for the Norvil rearsets. And hopefully, I'll also be using their brake rod and upside down brake arm to do away with the stock cable set up, which in my opinion, always looks bad with rearsets, with the possible exception of the CNW jobs.
I'll let y'all know how things work out.

Great, give us a report when finished.

Note if ya fail to follow instructions might end up with brake cable run like this on a universal John Tickle style like most others down to the peg peddle texture. Huh i never noticed that small branch sticking up before.