maylar
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- May 13, 2007
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Take a look again, it appears that the photos have been changed.Butt then I asked myself, who fits a castellated nut with the castellations facing toward a spring washer?, and why?
Take a look again, it appears that the photos have been changed.Butt then I asked myself, who fits a castellated nut with the castellations facing toward a spring washer?, and why?
IMHO don’t shoot for a measurement.I finally fit my Hemmings iso adjuster to the rear last week. Had the conversion vernier kit on the front, DT top with MK3 spring already.
Took the opportunity to adjust front and back from the book to be spec'd 10 thou with through bolts slack and engine cradle pushed full over to far side. After torquing through bolts back to 30 ft-lbs, book says gap should then be at 6 thou. I found front and back were not taking the feeler gauge. Went for a ride and am getting pretty harsh vibes 2200-3500 rpm, esp through foot pegs, tingling the feet.
Will be redoing the gaps, what should I be shooting for?
I finally fit my Hemmings iso adjuster to the rear last week.
Took the opportunity to adjust front and back from the book to be spec'd 10 thou with through bolts slack and engine cradle pushed full over to far side.
kind of curious - what do you folks consider the sweet spot? upgraded mt 74 Mk2 to the 75 Mk3 vernier types. set my front and rear to .010. seems find, but then again, i have nothing to compare it to. is there any characteristics i should be looking for?IMHO don’t shoot for a measurement.
Slacken them a little at a time, test ride each time, and find the sweet spot.
When you‘ve found the sweet spot, THEN measure it and make a note for future reference.
I don’t think there is such a thing as a universal sweet spot. Vibration itself is a function of many things. Personal opinion of the trade off between acceptable vibration and desirable handling are just that, a personal opinion.kind of curious - what do you folks consider the sweet spot? upgraded mt 74 Mk2 to the 75 Mk3 vernier types. set my front and rear to .010. seems find, but then again, i have nothing to compare it to. is there any characteristics i should be looking for?
10 thou with through bolts slack and engine cradle pushed full over to far side.
Reading all these interesting posts, one question showed up about the 25lbs torque applied to ISO nuts/bolts. On vernier adjustable type, what difference it makes to tigthen nuts and bolts more than 25lbs, as the threaded abutments prevent frame pinching? ( Sorry, is my question clear enough?) Thank you
This is a good interesting point; Increasing torque from 25 lbs to 30 lbs. Does it demonstrate that that the threaded abutments keep the correct gap between ISO end cap, PTFE washer and abutment? If so, 1/2 inch fine thread stainless ISO bolts (usually between grade 2 and grade 5 tensile strength) could take from 45 to 78 lbs of torque as per standard torque chart??Let's see this forum feeds. Thank you.I don't have an answer but the torque was increased to 30 lbs. ft. in the 850 Mk3 factory manual (the model that had vernier Isos.).
My Daytona clocks just disintegrated...again, i have nothing to compare, and really can't complain about handling or vibration. it sure is a hell of lot smoother than my old paint shaker 70 triumph daytona 500. that thing shook so bad, that most times, the tach and speedometer readings were just a blur.
Increasing torque from 25 lbs to 30 lbs. Does it demonstrate that that the threaded abutments keep the correct gap between ISO end cap, PTFE washer and abutment?
If so, 1/2 inch fine thread stainless ISO bolts (usually between grade 2 and grade 5 tensile strength) could take from 45 to 78 lbs of torque as per standard torque chart?
Your description is in line with what I was wondering. My point is that 1/2 inch diameter bolt/stud could take a lot more torque than the proposed value of 30 lbs, without impairing the MK3 ISO set up to work properly. Sorry about my not very fluent EnglishThe fixed abutment screws onto the vernier Iso. tube until the tube bottoms out in the abutment so the fixed abutment cannot move (even without the grub/set screw locking the abutment to the tube).
Tightening the through-bolt/stud clamps the threaded adjuster tight to the frame lug at that end of the assembly so, theoretically, it shouldn't rotate.
I'm not sure I follow (ok, I don't)?
Your description is in line with what I was wondering. My point is that 1/2 inch diameter bolt/stud could take a lot more torque than the proposed value of 30 lbs, without impairing the MK3 ISO set up to work properly.
Those that have the verniers or Hemmings setups, are you still using the iso gator rubbers? Seems these make the adjustment procedure much more difficult? Mine are hard to push out of hte way to access the ptfe washer for gapping and the adjustment piece turning holes. Would be much easier with gators removed. They seem to be used to keep the slding surfaces clean. Could a length of self-amalgamating "plumbers tape" wrapped around the adjuster following final adjustments provide same protection?
I have concern about MK3 -AN 06-4674 and 06-4666 Gaiters fitment"Gaiter, #27 (06-0773 or 06-3718) can be replaced with the MK3 type, (06-4674) or cut off the nose so that the grub screw and holes are exposed."