Characteristics created by Incorrectly adjusted ISO (Too tight & Too loose)

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Fast Eddie said:
I use dry film PTFE lubricant.
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How do you apply it Nigel?
  • engine running? (vibes might help it creep in?)
  • any access problems for rear ones?
  • how do you judge how much to apply?
Never thought of using it before.
cheers
 
I’ve not applied it with the engine running, never thought about that.

My logic is that it is very ‘searching’ stuff, and as we have gaps (of varying sizes) it should get ‘in there’ quite easily. The liquid propellant / base gets it in there, which evapoeates leaving the dry film behind.

How much? Loads! And wipe of the excess.

It’s just one of those things that ‘seems’ to work fine, but I’ve not tested the results scientifically at all.
 
SteveA said:
Butt then I asked myself, who fits a castellated nut with the castellations facing toward a spring washer?, and why?
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I thought that!
I put mine on in what I thought was the correct way and so the split pin goes in a hole.
 
Fullauto said:
With the CNW/Jim Comstock head steady I backed off the vernier adjustments until it was smooth at all revs. This head steady maintains the alignment, hence, no hinge in the middle and makes it a delight to ride.
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How far did you back it off Ken (holes or thou)?
 
Fast Eddie said:
I’ve not applied it with the engine running, never thought about that.

My logic is that it is very ‘searching’ stuff, and as we have gaps (of varying sizes) it should get ‘in there’ quite easily. The liquid propellant / base gets it in there, which evapoeates leaving the dry film behind.

How much? Loads! And wipe of the excess.

It’s just one of those things that ‘seems’ to work fine, but I’ve not tested the results scientifically at all.
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Can arrived - followed your advice and applied copiously (with friend on bike revving the engine).
It has definitely made things smoother - so now it'll be on my "things to do list" every thousand miles or so.
Thanks for the heads-up.
Cheers
 
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I must admit I just adjust my mk 3 adjusters until they are tight then back them off until the engine moves freely up and down
I have an extra iso under my gearbox and a norvil type headsteady
Superb handling at any speed and negligible vibration
 
Those feeler gage measurements are very vague, measure on one side of a not-necessarily square set of crudely manufactured parts.
So yeah, shoot for spec & then verify by vibe testing.
 
Hold up I've found some
 

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baz said:
Hold up I've found some
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Wow, that looks to be an actual Isolastic including main frame inserts for the cross fastener and guessing it has the smaller diameter inner Isolastic rubbers.
 
Time Warp said:
Wow, that looks to be an actual Isolastic including main frame inserts for the cross fastener and guessing it has the smaller diameter inner Isolastic rubbers.
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No there are no iso rubbers in there at all
I didn't want to medal with the vibration level, I wanted the best handling I could get so all the extra iso does is control the side play
I saw this conversion done by Peter Cook in classic bike magazine
Sorry for the state of the bike these are recent photos and I have used this bike in this form for over 20 year's and I ride all year round
I also converted the swinging arm pivot to MK3 cotter pins and I over braced and under braced the swinging arm as well
 
baz said:
No there are no iso rubbers in there at all
I didn't want to medal with the vibration level, I wanted the best handling I could get so all the extra iso does is control the side play
I saw this conversion done by Peter Cook in classic bike magazine
Sorry for the state of the bike these are recent photos and I have used this bike in this form for over 20 year's and I ride all year round
I also converted the swinging arm pivot to MK3 cotter pins and I over braced and under braced the swinging arm as well
Click to expand...
I like what you've done Baz, congratulations!
My only thought counter to this is the 4th iso would, to some extent, be like adding a 4th leg to a three legged stool.
The stool was already stable.
Can't hurt though!
Cheers
 
robs ss said:
I like what you've done Baz, congratulations!
My only thought counter to this is the 4th iso would, to some extent, be like adding a 4th leg to a three legged stool.
The stool was already stable.
Can't hurt though!
Cheers
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To be honest the top iso isn't needed at all but I keep it just incase and I am obsessed with getting the very best handling I can out of this bike with the tools I have to hand
I've ridden plenty of standard commandos over the years
The Kenny Dreer vr 880 didn't have a headsteady I believe
 
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baz said:
Sorry for the state of the bike these are recent photos and I have used this bike in this form for over 20 year's and I ride all year round
Click to expand...
It's your anti-rust protection scheme. ;)
 
There is also Doug MacRae's bike

Characteristics created by Incorrectly adjusted ISO (Too tight & Too loose)




Characteristics created by Incorrectly adjusted ISO (Too tight & Too loose)


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Race Commando handling secrets revealed

Not everyone wants to reveal their secrets especially in racing and I am not retiring from racing yet, although I fell off a few times in 2009 and lost to Kenny for the first time ( I should have retired right there ), I have slowed a bit. It is possible that there is a better set up Commando...
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