Building new short stroke engine

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The unfortunate fact is the TRIUMPH Twin Crank is limited to about SIXTY Horsepower , Durabilitilly . 72 % is regarded as about right there , for Raceing .

A chap with a 850 left it a std. B.F. , but the Cradles gone , and the shocks . He cut n shut it to Alloy Monoshock S Arm , etc . Says its not to bad , V i b ra t i o n ally .
Rode a 69 750 with the Iso's apparently solid . Worst footrest buzz short of a Honda :P ive experianced . Some suckers are saying 74 % for a solid Norton , but individual
frames and mounts have there own particular ' sweet spot ' , so a educated guess regarding where its supported best and motion / direction might be a good start .

The ' Layed Forward ' aspect of the Commando Donk , is actually NOT putting primary vibration VERTICAL , its throwing it up the Cyllinder Axis . Then theres the Cranks
holla Dance . 50 % up n down , 50 % fore n Aft . ??? Then the Location Points .

Pre Bent Cranks vay alignment , so average straight . Straight ones Average Bowed under Load ??? The Barreled Roller acomodades it all ( As per H.D. XR 750 , they needen too )
But a considered pre bow may in fact provide less wastage of horsepower . Much as most girders ( bridge ) are pre bowed to sit straight under load & there own weight .

Whip was said to be 4 Thou. This might get the rods sufficently angular to the journals to pick up . ANY evidance that it in fact happens .
 
Matt Spencer said:
But a considered pre bow may in fact provide less wastage of horsepower.

Glad you qualified this speculation with the word "may" because it is not so. :)

This falls under the category of perpetual motion device. :oops:

Tip of the hat to SeeleyWeslake - he has it straight.
 
Dances with Shrapnel said:
For the subject Shortstroke build the owner should consult Steve Maney for specifics on BF as there are some subtle differences between a stock stroke and short stroke.

Start a new thread on BF as this is getting a bit off topic.

Agreed...and it goes on below.....(or above now....)

I bought my crank from Steve Maney, he balanced it after discussion regrading use and preference and I gave him component weights from Jim, BF is 78% Jim would recommend lower, I think 72%....this is for rigid mount race use

The crank in the build is from Nourish who may have different views for an Isolastic mounted road bike.....I would not think Steve would really want to comnent!
 
Hey.
Thanks for the many posts about balancing factor. I have already chosen to follow Jim Schmidt's advice and went at the start for 65% BF. After the pistons were heavier then BF drops to 62%. This I will try in my engine. The choice is made ​​and ask you to stop discussion of BF in this thread. Isn't issue finished please create a new thread please.

Acotrel you say that short stroke only works on high speed. I understood that the choice of cam and the size of the inlet ports have more to do on this than stoke. Maybe you selected the wrong size and chosen too large inlet ports :?:
I have great respect for Jim Comstock (comnoz) and I believe a Fullauto head with larger inlet valves and changed angle for the valve will be the difference between success or not.

I have hoped for an answer to the original volume of the combustion chamber, but I can calculate it my self (theoretical).
However, the combustion chamber of 850 Fullauto has the same volume as the original head?

Kvinnhering
 
Kvinnhering said:
I have hoped for an answer to the original volume of the combustion chamber, but I can calculate it my self (theoretical).
However, the combustion chamber of 850 Fullauto has the same volume as the original head?

If you're looking for info on combustion chamber volumes, this might help (and might not). I think I probably posted it here a few years ago, but had trouble finding the link. Hey, at least it's not about BF!

Nominal factory spec for standard RH4 850 head is 50 cc, and for RH7 short stroke head is 53 cc.

The measurements below are for a variety of heads I have measured. None of these heads are stock. Most of these heads have been modified a number of times, including milling the head surface, installing different size valves, and opening the counterbore for larger bore sizes.

Jeff Law’s 750 head converted to 920. Milled and counterbore machined – 44.6 cc.
Steve Shivers’s 750 head converted to 920. Milled and counterbore machined – 45.8 cc.
Head from Marc Field’s Dunstall 810 engine. 850 converted to 750 bolt pattern, milled. – 42.4 cc.
850 head from Jim Schmidt’s race engine. Milled. – 42.4 cc.
Axtell 30 mm port 750 head – 51.0 cc.
Axtell 32 mm port 750 head – 48.8 cc.
Stock Mk3 850 head – 51.6 cc.
Mk3 850 head milled .060” – 43.2 cc.
Stock Mk2 850 head – 51.8 cc.
Short Stroke 750 head – 55.2 cc.
Another Short Stroke 750 head – 52 cc.
Ex-factory Flat Track Short Stroke 750 head (huge valves) as removed from John Hately’s bike – 57.3 cc.
Ex-factory Flat Track Short Stroke 750 head after milling – 50.7 cc.

Ken
 
Kvinn
The short stroke favours higher revs, and if you choose to go that way, you commit your self towards looking for more top end power when you are porting and choosing camshafts. The strength of the longstroke Norton motor lies in its torque characteristic at relatively low revs, the crankcases don't like high revs anyway, unless you use a high balance factor. Running a 58% factor crank at 8,000 rpm is horrific in any motor. Your short stroke motor will be better on long curving roads, but the long stroke motors makes a much better ride on the tight twisty stuff. I only ever raced my 63mm stroke Triumph at Phillip Island twice. On the extremely long straights, it was really great - It just wound out, on and on. On a tight twisty circuit, it was as useless as tits on a bull. Your motor is nowhere near as radical, but the stroke effects have the sane tendencies. A 650 Triumph has the same stroke as your motor, and it is still possible to build a really torquey motor out of one. But, you will be using cases designed for the long stroke Norton crank, so if you balance your crank right, you will be able to move the power band up the rev range, and it should cop 8,000 revs easily. The Norton squish band head and porting are a major advantage, but I wouldn't use a Norton cam. You need someone who has the nice new computerised cam grinding machine, and put a Triumph E3134 grind on the Norton camshaft in a way which permits you to use Triumph racing timings. From memory that cam uses 75, 52, 52, 75 timings, and the power band is 4000 to 8000 revs. - tried and tested over years of racing. Then lighten the valve train, and use decent springs.
On my 850 Norton motor, I use 34mm carbs, but I tapered the ports back to standard before the port opens out just before the valve. I suggest you might do similarly.

In my triumph short stroke motor, I used a standard 650 head which was ported pretty much to the max, but with separate pipes it was hopelessly dangerous, you cannot ride around all corners on our race circuits at 5,000 revs, and if it dropped off the cam, it would go sideays when it came back on. Slipping the clutch to get it back into the power band was a real hazard. When I first raced it, I used 4 inch megaphones - I got rid of those and fitted a two into one which knocked 1000 revs off the top end, but I started to get decent lap times.
You will not have those problems.
 
Ken,

Looks like the values you presented above are the volume in the head only. Add a 1mm head gasket to the stock 850 number you cite above and you get 8.5:1 so it makes sense to me.

As I see it there's the cylinder head combustion chamber volume (cylinder head chamber volume to gasket surface) and then there's the actual combustion chamber volume which accounts for piston domes/dishes, gasket thickness and valve pockets. The latter can be used to calculate compression ratios.
 
According to Smokey Yunick (who knew much more about engines than I ever will) you want the longest connecting rod that you can stuff inside the block. Going in that direction is what I do. Torque is more than just bore and stroke. It has a bunch to do with camshaft selection and the heads on the engine. All the parts need to be dialed in with each other. In my experience, many people think they can just turn a bunch of rpm to go faster. Working on the chassis and getting the suspension to hook up coming off the corner will help more than turning 8,000 rpm.

Read more: http://forums.circletrack.com/70/829579 ... z28IBmvm3n

Well have you chosen a piston yet? You can dominate races with long or short connecting rods, its just a matter of piecing the engine together correctly and tuning. I would look at the heads and how they flow and connecting rod length to boot. When building an engine, you do not need to turn extreme rpms to make power and torque (just look at Engine masters), you late model guys get up to 7,500 - 8,500 at the highest revolution???? You want to adhere to your operation range closely when selecting camshafts/valvetrains, heads, ignition curves etc etc. You want the powerband to span the rpms you use the most.

If the heads lack some flow I would use a longer rod since the TDC speed is slower than a short rod at TDC. This allows a lower flow rate head to not chase the piston as much on the induction stroke. If the piston is too fast ATDC on the powerstroke as well, the flame front will not produce the maximum amount of pressure/power possible simply because it may just be filling a slight void right next to the piston crown as it moves down to TDC rather than actually forcing. We have to remember to look at the valve event timing as well. Look at burn patterns on the crown when the engine is torn down.

Getting the correct flow velocities, sufficient cfm, unshroud areas, add minor modifications (legal ones of course) along with optimum cam timing is a must.

Read more: http://forums.circletrack.com/70/829579 ... z28IC3qf6z

+1 True,,,
There is only one glitch to long rod engines and what you gain in piston dwell time at and ATDC is also wasted time at and ABDC.
Your most effective cranking (combustion) pressure is from 15 to 55 degrees ATDC,,, beyond that, there is little effective combustion pressure left to turn the crank, besides, another cylinder is already going through the same cycle the previous one did.
Cylinder heads are where "ALL" your power is produced,,, pistons are nothing more than the combustion chamber floor that heads south, like an elevator going down.
Concentrating on VE (volumetric efficiency) is the key to power production,,,

This is the type of chamber to use,,, if rules allow it.

Read more: http://forums.circletrack.com/70/829579 ... z28ICWhBpR

Building new short stroke engine

very little combustion chamber to speak of and compression is determined by the dish in the pistons,,, as it should be. This fast burn head, owes it's existence to Robert Yates, who in turn revived the design that Michael May worked on, many years ago.
The design came into existence at the end of World WarII, where it was used on RR Merlin engines running a crank driven centrifugal Super Charger with water/methanol injection.

Read more: http://forums.circletrack.com/70/829579 ... z28ID0rdPs


They, "FTLracing", did a comparison of a 5" (1.492) ratio rod vs 7" (2.0) ratio rod as an example.
This is a little, of what they had to say.

copy/paste

Effects of a longer Rod
* Less rod angularity reduces wear.
* Lower piston velocity and acceleration reduces tensile loading of the rods.
* Less ignition timing is required which resist detonation.
* Compression can be increased slightly before detonation is a problem.
* Less intake runner volume is required and high rpm breathing is improved.
* Reduces scavenging at low rpm (weaker low RPM power).
* Longer TDC dwell time. (high RPM efficency).


Effects of a shorter Rod
* Increased rod angularity increases wear.
* Increased piston velocity and acceleration increases tensile loading of the rods.
* Increases scavenging at low rpm (increased low RPM power).
* Reduced TDC dwell time. (Reduced high RPM efficiency).


What they forgot to mention about the long rod is that the positive gain at TDC, is partially offset by wasted dwell time at BDC. The other flaw IMHO, is the close proximity of the wrist pin hole and the bottom oil ring rail, on the piston.
They used a 3.5" stroke for both rods, which is very close to a 350's 3.48" stroke.
As the graph shows, even 2" longer rod does not perform miracles.

Read more: http://forums.circletrack.com/70/829579 ... z28IET0sEz

Basically my question is this, why are so many people fixated on building short stroke engines when they can build a larger engine with the right valvetrain and spin it just as high and enjoy all of the benefits of the larger engine?
A big bore small stroke motor will almost always make more power than a small bore short stroke, simply due to a better burn in the combustion space. We have spent years testing this on the dyno with race motors. For us the debate is over.

Second, piston speed and part quality determine how long a stroke you can have versus designed RPM peak you want to achieve. The longer the stroke the higher the piston speed the harder it is to change direction and the more stress you'll have on the part. Part being piston, rod, crank. Too much stress and it breaks.

Your 352 example is fairly close to the concept we use on our race motors. They seriously out perform a standard bore/stroke SBC race motor.

Just because a motor design has a long stroke doesn't mean it's going to make a ton of torque. Because it's a long stroke it can't rev high, so it has to be designed around making a lot of torque, re: cam, induction, heads.


In your example I assume the identical cylinder heads are used with both examples. If that were the case the shorter stroke engine would have higher RPM ability.

Piston speed determines port velocity, higher RPM equals higher piston speed and port velocity. At some point the port velocity reaches its peak, called choke.

Increasing stroke increases piston speed, with the longer stroke port choke happens at a lower RPM. For the long stroke engine to RPM as high as the short stroke engine the entire induction system must be sized to meet the demands of the higher piston velocity.

A long stroke - or short rod engine allows the piston to spend more time (in crankshaft degrees around bdc. A short stroke/long rod hoss has the piston slower around tdc. Therefore a long stroke engine like a 400 sbc or a short rod engine - 302w will feed better off a short intake duration cam and work badly on slow burning fuels like alky or nitro methane.
A long rod/short stroke engine generally likes big camshaft overlap, slow burning fuels and wide lsa's.
The torque vs hp argument is more about piston speeds and less about crankshaft leverage. Check Isky's cam grinds - their long stroke short track grinds have VERY narrow lsa's. they seem to be the only company addressing this factor.

As a rule, anytime you increase cubes you increase torque (not necessarily horsepower as much). Older, workhorse engines remembered for their torque were probably engineered as long stroke motors probably because they were cheaper. You could use a cheaper valve train and getting a good flame front across a smaller slug is easier.

Like everyone else I have an opinion. My experience is racing and racing engines will not run on the street.
First a piston can not travel faster that 2700 feet per minute.(3" stroke 11000 tops)
Having said that bore has no effect on RPM.
If you plan to run an engine at a very high RPM you must have a minimum of .001 per inch clearance on everything (2" crank .002 - 4" piston .004 etc)
You must then use 50 weight oil and contrary to what you would think keep oil pressure around 60 lbs at high RPM. More pressure only creates heat and will break your oil down. Cubic inch x rpm you want to run will give CFM. Stay under for carburetion. Less gas gives more power but also more heat.


Let's compare the 455 Olds (4.126"B x 4.25"S) to the 455 Buick (4.313"B x 3.90"S)

The main reason shorter strokes are better for higher winding is because force increases by the square of speed. Increasing stroke increases piston speeds. Doubling pistons speed SQUARES its force inertially. What that means practically is that a modest increase in stroke can easily double or triple the stress seen at the piston and pin. This limits peak RPMs. The Buick's pistons at 6000 RPMs are moving much slower than the Olds' pistons at 6000 RPMs. Just doing some quick math in my head, the extra .350" stroke on the Olds would mean forces at the piston would be almost twice what they are in the buick at the same RPM

The second reason (comparing the buick and olds) is breathing. The undersquare olds can't fit big valves, but its supplying the same cubes. Therefore the intake velocity peaks earlier, meaning it makes torque at a lower RPM.

The third reason (which has been beaten to death over the years) is the length of the crank throw. Adding stroke means you are lengthening the lever, so the same force on the rod creates more torque at the output. In the real world this has less of an effect than you might think. One of the magazines did a test (using these two engines actually) with identical head flow numbers, cam numbers, etc, and they turned up nearly identical on the dyno. Evidently the shorter lever on the buick crank was made up for by the extra cylinder pressures it was able to generate

I think the truth is somewhere in the middle. You can make a long stroke rev high, but if you want it to last more than one stomp of the pedal it takes more money. I think when people say "long stroke = low end torque" they mean that given its handicaps to revving high, you might not want to open your wallet that far.

Since the larger bore setup has 9.3% more piston area, equal pressure in the cylinder would produce that much more pressure on the connecting rod, raising the torque output even without the leverage of the crank throw.

Maximum piston speed is about 9.5% more with the longer stroke motor. A Buick 455 is about 6370 fpm @ 6000 rpm while an Olds 455 is about 6975 fpm.

If you spin a long stroke motor too fast it's like whiplash, something gives/breaks.

You get around this in race applications with billet cranks, billet or Ti rods, strong light pistons. But even those have limits. Sooner or later they will experience whiplash if you rev them too high by exceeding designed piston speed velocities. Curtis is correct, the calculated, and engineered, G loading maximums are what govern the RPM capability of a bottom end on a motor.
You are going to have much higher g loads moving a piston up and down a 4" stroke 6000 times per minute versus a 3" stroke moving up and down 6000 times per minute. That is the KEY POINT on the bottom end design and it's mechanical RPM capability. Doesn't have anything to do with power.

A larger bore engine can utilize a cylinder head with a wider combustion chamber,which allows bigger valves and ports to be used which leads the way to more RPM.The wider chambers are more prone to detonation but the higher engine speeds reduce detonation so it all falls together.Short stroke engines built from production based engines and being run with unlimited induction systems{like a tunnel ram} suffer from having connecting rods that are a little too long which can adversly effect cylinder filling in some case but can be benificial in an enging with a restricted induction system.Most modern high RPM drag engines built today use special low deck blocks which allow both a short stroke and a short rod.These combinations tend to get the benifit of steeper rod angles earleir in the combustion cycle with has typically been the domain of long stroke short rod engines,and the result is more power in the beggining of the powerrange with no real loss at top end when compared to a taller height long rod engine.

Long stroke engines beifit from a smaller bore because it helps control detonation when you are building an engine to make peak cylinder pressures at relitivy low speeds.The downfall to this is that the smaller bores limit breathing potential,but since the engine inst intended for high rpm this is a benifit because the builder will choose a cylinder head with smaller ports which will build more velocity at low speeds and make the engine tolerate a little later intake valve closing event if everything is matched right.This is how low RPM engines get a little extra power at the top fo their range.


In the end, given the same cubic inches and cylinder pressure, more stroke does not make more torque by its self. One of the reasons that the shorter stroke motor makes more power at high RPM is that there is less internal friction because of the lower piston speed. Also, the heads are allowed to flow better in the larger bore. I have seen tests where the longer stroke motor made a little more torque at very low RPM's. My only guess to why this happens is that the higher piston speed creates more velocity, and since the motor is not at a very high RPM, the reduction of friction from the short stroke has not had a chance to make a big effect.

So basically a shorter stroke engine is most beneficial when used in extreme applications like racing but doesn't really matter as much as overall engine size does when it comes to the street/strip duty that probably 95% of put our engines through.
 
Guys,

It ain't much help telling Kvinnhering and me that we should have gone long stroke, we have already committed to short stroke....doesn't matter to us if you are right or wrong, this is what we are doing. We have gone short stroke with very long rods, end of.

We are discussing how to make it work for our different applications, and also how to get enough compression to make it work with the same specific pistons!

So, back to the plot please.

Ken's input is very helpful, it illustrates that Kvinnhering's measurements are quite typical, if for him disapointing now, do the math(s)....what compression does this give? Is it enough? 10:1 would be a nice starting point, a bit more would be useful, neither of us is looking for 11:1 at the moment as we want to run pump gas around 98 or 99 octane.

If not what is the way forward? more milling of the head will most likely give valve to piston clearance problems, though probably no more than going with Jim's 3 thou clearance copper rings. (more frustrating for Kvinnhering because he will need to mill those pistons more).

Fitting new seats might reduce the volume a cc or two? and flat faced valves?

Sounds like we will be lucky to get what we want with these pistons and might need to consider another $500 plus shipping and import taxes (a lot) for Jim's domed pistons!

Anybody got a volume figure for one of Mick Hemmings sphered big valve heads? beyond that we are into 'bath tubs', which I understand have some issues?

Steve
 
Well can't forget there is static CR and then there's dynamic CR determined by cam timing the intake closing point to start the actual compression stroke sooner or later,which is then dependent on octane and spark timing per rpm to avoid detonation. Special engines with special parts take special determination and extra special wallet opening points. The quotes I let were not to change mind on short stroke, just to get issues on the different breathing character for sense of cam selection and degreeing. If finally works out happy could lead to a rash of short strokes over next decade or more.

Data points to consider here
http://www.daytona-sensors.com/tech_tuning.html

http://www.acl.co.nz/Tech/Compression%20Ratios.pdf

http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/twin- ... ula-5.html

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sclient=ps ... 31&bih=593
 
Short stroke is good. The motor will cop more revs and turn out more power. Comp. ratio is not your problem as long as it is over 9 to one, cams are much more critical, and because your usable rev range is over 4000rpm, your balance factor should be over 70%. The 58% balance factor is bullshit. Even port size is not critical, but if you make them too big you will lose mid-range torque.
 
I've used 650 Triumph motors with comp ratios as low as 7.5 to one, and they still go hard, as long as race cams are used. My short stroke triumph used 12 to one 650 pistons to effectively give ten to one comp. I used alcohol and one side of the high crowns always had coke on it. With 63mm stroke, I used 44 degrees ignition advance with methanol.

Good luck with your projects , they sound great. I'd like to do similar with 75mm stroke and nourish rickman head and barrels.
 
Steve A and Kvinnhering,

Your on the right track. Although higher compression is a goal to improve mid range torque and efficiency it really becomes critical when you look at cam selections. Less overlap then higher compression not that critical to regain mid range torque, more overlap then more compression required to maintain mid range torque.

A short stroke has the potential to generate more power through 1.) higher rpm (mass flow) for a given mean piston speed, 2.) ability to fit a larger intake valve and to some extent, 3.) lower friction losses, especially with a longer rod to stroke ratio. Although mechanical leverage due to a short crank throw is not conducive to torque, the fact that the bore has increased increases forces to the crank to enhance torque - it is more or less wash.

For any given rpm you will be seeing the same mass flow (air & fuel) so same energy, as a result, for the most part power characteristics will not change much unless you change ports, valves and valve timing events. I run a highly modified 75mm short stroke Norton Seeley and mid range performance is as good as a well sorted out stock stroke race norton but it has another 1,500 rpm for more power. It is balanced to 75% for the Seeley frame as per Steve Maney back when I built the bike. Steve now recommends 78% for similar set up. If it were to go in a Commando, it would without a doubt have been at a Commando BF based on experience and the preponderance of hard information indicating that is best.

In context, Kvinnhering has already selected a 62% or 65% BF based on recommendations from someone. I do not see this as a fatal flaw as he is using a heavier billet crank and Steve Maney cases which are very durable and he is targeting primarily street use so the incremental load reduction going to a 53% BF (dry) is not significant. I am told by a reputable source that with the higher BF, there will be more vibration at idle and lower rpm but vibration at higher rpm will be unchanged.

Bathtub heads are the way to get higher compression for the following reasons:
Provides the most compact and efficient combustion chamber (very important)
Provides quench bands that are easier to set up (flat planes parrallel to deck versus curved surfaces along piston domes)
Reduces reciprocating mass of piston as the piston has less dome mass.
Minimal valve/port flow restrictions if done properly.

Disadvantages of a bathtub shaped combustion chamber are having to weld on the cylinder head which softens the aluminum.

As I say, I think you fellows are tracking just fine on the projects and will enjoy your results as the short stroke engines can be very trackable.
 
acotrel said:
your balance factor should be over 70%. The 58% balance factor is bullshit.

Please back this up with some factual data or information, otherwise, the above statement is just ...BS.

You have been beating the drum and waving the flag about this issue with terms such as "horrific". This bit of advice was never asked by the OP and is now clearly moot for the OP yet all you have to offer is..................what?

Norm White? Peter Williams? Norton factory design for the short stroke Commando? Vast majority of people racing stock stroke or long stroke Norton twins in a Commando frame?

Just my opinion here but this has gone emotional for you. I am always open to new ideas, facts, reasoning and rationale.

Again, to just write "bullshit" is just BS.
 
Hi

The mere mention of Bath tubs or boat shaped heads & I get all misty eyed about Mez porting.
Long since passed away. His sons leave his website up & running. Respect to them.
I know I have posted this link before but please have a look.
http://mez.co.uk/mezporting/page6.html#Norton

ps I have a pair of inlet trumpets but I wish I had a pair of those exquisite carb bodies.

Great thread

Chris
 
I've got a set of crankcases which I've we lded a plate around the drive side bearing housing. It was used by a young guy who used to spend his Sundays on the Great Ocean Road getting stuck right into it with a few other fast guys. He used to peak out the poor old commando. It split the crankcases horizontally right thgrough the bearing housing. I've had Triumph 650s for about twenty years in my youth, always with full race motors. And I raced my short stroke Triumph against a mate of mine for about twelve years. The 650 has the same stroke you guys are moving towards. We've always used balance factors up around 79%. Every pre unit Triumph which has ever raced in Victoria has blown up big time, except for my mates bike. He always built the motor for torque, and never revved it over 6,300. It is geared high and extremely fast. The Norton crank is horrible, and if you run it at 58% balance factor at high revs (8000 RPM), what is happening is very nasty. The commando is a compromise, it is designed to be smooth in traffic. If you want to rev it, change the balance factor, or you must pay the price. Even with the isolastics, I would rebalance the crank to over 70 %, and tolerate the shake at low revs. The reason the Atlas 750 was a fail, is that the weight which needed to be balanced at high revs was too great. It also used to tear the base flange off the barrel. The isolastics made the commando tolerable in the vibes department, and the 58% factor was also used for the purpose of removing vibes at low revs. But don't expect to peak out the motor often without a disaster.
Another thing, while we are on the subject of Norton design. Peter Williams built a racing frame with the pivot bearings close together to get it narrower overall. You don't have to be a genius to figure out why it had a hinge in the middle.
The commando engine surprises me, it was never going to work rigidly mounted in a road bike, the Atlas proved that. However fundamentally it is a great design, but you can't expect it to do two things well. Decide whether you want to go fast or slow, and modify it to suit. My own bike is great as a racer but as a road bike, you would shoot yourself after the first ten miles in traffic.
It is interesting that if you tap and plug the hole in the flywheel with steel, the balance factor is almost perfect for a high speed engine. It would be interesting to know what some of the prototype bikes were like to ride, before Dennis Poore influenced the design.
I wonder if the short stroke production racer of the 70s had isolastics ? Silly stuff unless it was designed for long distance racing.
I suggest a standard commando with the crank rebalanced to 70% would be a great high speed bike, but you could never have sold it to the British commuters. As soon as they saw it idling they would have walked away.
 
It is surprising the effect of changes to the weight of the crankshaft makes. In the 60s Triumph brought out the Saint 650 which had a lighter flywheel. It is almost impossible to get a motor to go fast with that crankshaft in it . When I built my own norton 850 motor, I immediately tried to move tha balance factor to about 79%. I plugged the hole in the flywheel, but I couldn't get it much higher than 72% without drilling too many holes, and dangerously weakening the flywheel. The motor is rigidly mounted and when the bike is idling, it literally shakes. But as soon as you rev it, it is turbine smooth. So much so that with as close box it is really difficult to change lower than 7,500 revs, even if you aim for 7000 rpm. The isolastics might make the bike more comfortable at low revs, but I understand that Doug Macrae locks the isolastics up with a solid block of material to get his bike to handle. I have enough motor and gearbox bits to build a second bike, and I've looked at a standard commando frame. I would not use one.
 
acotel, please stop this with BF. Start a thread on this topic and give us a brake.
 
Acotrel,

Perhaps I am being too analytical but I am failing to see the cause and affect. If it were not for factory design and supporting moment diagrams indicating a near 50% balance factor is the most kind to the crankshaft and crankcases I would say it would be an open debate. Not drawing a line in the sand here on the debate but failing to see a clearly established cause and affect. Yes I have heard of at least one Norton (street Norton) 850 splitting a crankcase horizontal so perhaps there's something else acting here, things that come to mind are preignition. Even Jim Comstock halved a Commando racer on the starting line right in front of me; I recall that was also a cast iron flywheel failure.

As for Doug McRae's bike as well as Herb Becker's Commando racers they do not lock the Isolastics up at all. Do a search of Doug McRae's postings on accesnorton and you will find some clear pictures of what Herb has done. The head steady rubbers are replaced with teflon pucks which allow fore/aft & up/down movement while constraining lateral movment. A similar item is added beneath the cradle behind the gear box so the whole engine/trans/grearbox/swingarm spindle assembly is concisely controlled in one plane by four sliding surfaces; two from the Noron Iso's and two by Herb Becker add ons.

Kenny Cumming's road Doug's race bike and his words were "unbelievably smooth and made him wonder what might be wrong with his street Commando" I can vouch for this as I raced another of Herb's Commandos and it was almost disturbingly smooth but by the end of the straightaway you realized holy sh*t you are flying. Again, both bikes are balanced at 53% BF (dry) per the factory and both were stock stroke.

I rigorously campaigned a Commando 750 with a 53% BF (dry) in the late 1990's; rigorously is a misnomer and flogging the living sh*t out of it is still an understatement. I more than peaked out that motor an a regular basis. I am honestly estimating I had +75 races plus all the related practices on that motor. No crankcase problems and only one major engine blow up solely due to my shaving down and then over revving (every race weekend) a cast iron flywheel. No more cast iron flywheels for me - potential widow makers. I have seen numerous Commando racers at 53% BF (dry) and very few failures.

My point is that hard engineering analysis shows the factory recommended BF for the Commando results in less stress on the crank and cases and lacking any clear cause and affect to demonstrate otherwise, I think they got this right. Again, take a look and read through the BSA reference hobot provided. And yes the BSA case is relevant as it is a 360 degree twin with a center flywheel. I don't know of anyone racing or street riding a Commando who is using anything other than 53% (dry) so how could they all have missed this?
 
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