Brakes, old vrs new

As I think about this I seem to recall reading or hearing that there was something about the oem cylinder having a valve or maybe a restriction in the porting that intentionally reduced the transfer of fluid. But I can't remember specifically and I might be confusing it with something else entirely. But there is something nagging at me about that subject from when I first considered improving the brakes and went to the resleeved oem MC. Mine was resleeved by a gentleman in CA (LA, I think). We had several phone discussions and he was really helpful but it was several years ago and I'm embarrassed to say I have totally forgotten his name. I probably have a record of it...somewhere.

Since everything is filled with fluid, when the master moves, the caliper is going to move, regardless of any restriction. The fluid may move faster with a restriction, but a corresponding amount of fluid, with respect to the master cylinder piston movement, has to move.

All things considered, no doubt the Brembo setup from CNW is sized correctly and will give you an excellent stopper. I would note the Grimeca master cylinder I used has a brake light switch and a hole for the mirror. I kept the working half of the handlebar switch and fabed a curved plate to replace the original master cylinder attachment. The 11mm Grimeca master is from a MZ 250 motard.

Well again, I can't recall the specifics but if the passage between the MC valve chamber was too small to allow the fluid to more "instantly" into the line/caliper it would slow down the movement of the lever/application of the pads to the rotor. The ultimate pressure would end up the same but this "delay" would affect the feel of the brake. I'll try to find my notes or whatever on this...as much for to determine if my memory is badly lacking as it is to determine if this exists or not.

Try just changing the old hose for a good stainless one first , you may be pleasantly surprised. You can always add from there. I went for the brembo and love it.

Here's a Grimeca master cylinder that appears to mount up to Commando switch gear. Don't know what size it is.

Hello I resleeved my Mk3 master cylinder with a kit from RGM of Cumbria UK and fitted one of the 13" floating disks with Grimeca caliper and mount also from RGM. I found it to be very good and powerful without any hint of grab.
At the same time I fitted stainless braided hoses and a set of progressive fork springs again from RGM and a home made fork brace made from 6mm stainless steel in the form of the old mudguard bridge, not a perfect solution but a lot stiffer than the original set up.
Hagon shocks and a Grimeca caliper on a home made stainless mount with the standard disk (drilled) at the rear.
Flangless alloy rims and stainless spokes front and rear
The braking and handling are now as good as it gets.

Have fun, ride safely and often.

Regards Rocker1.

I also sleeved the M/C on my MKIII, I used the RGM kit with the screw in sleeve, best to have access to a milling machine as the sleeve has to go in perfectly straight. And there was some time spent on the piston pusher to get the piston and lever travel right. Was it worth it ? You bet. I turned the chrome plating off the disc years ago, some improvement there, I use the OE rubber hoses, but new ones. And use Ferodo platium pads. If you want your bike to look OE, I think this is the best way to go, it probbably impvoved the front brake 25/30%. New OE rubber brake lines are expensive, the stainless lines I'd bet are less money, but I wanted the Stock look. Phil at Fair Spares in San Jose CA. offers a exchange sleeved M/C for those who don't want to mess with the RGM kit.

Ken G.

The subject of chrome plated disc has cropped up again, I still have never heard or seen one. Was it for the USA market only?
My Idea of a better brake is more swept area. So bigger pads would give this, so would a larger disc.

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Oh no! They are taking our facourite programs off for the Olympics.

Hi
My Commando also had Chrome disks, I took the chrome of with Sulfuric acid, glycerine and reverse electrolosis so long ago that I had forgotten it.
It did make quite a difference.
I painted the centre and left it too long before overspraying and accidently produced an nice "crackle finish" it was so good I kept it on for some years.

Regards Bob (rocker1)

rocker1 said:

At the same time I fitted stainless braided hoses and a set of progressive fork springs again from RGM and a home made fork brace made from 6mm stainless steel in the form of the old mudguard bridge, not a perfect solution but a lot stiffer than the original set up.
Hagon shocks and a Grimeca caliper on a home made stainless mount with the standard disk (drilled) at the rear.

Click to expand...

Rocker 1, sounds like you have a nice set-up. Any pics of the fork brace? Does it help under hard braking? I have a set of Lansdowne dampers which I hope to fit in the next few weeks. I am looking forward to seeing how the new compression damping will cope with hard braking. With much greater stopping power from a larger disc, better matched master cylinder and Progressive springs, there is a tendency for my forks to dive excessively and the front (modern Avon) tyre to skip under hard braking. Not good, and doesn't allow one to make full use of the better brake. If I still get too much dive, I may have to either add more preload or re-fit the stiffer, standard springs.

Mike,

You may be thinking of Al Miles, who is still around and still produces 13 mm front brake kits, as well as other well-crafted Norton performance stuff. My Mk3 arrived in Seattle last year with an Al Miles kit in place, and he patiently led me through its disassembly and inspection (it was in perfect condition). Al advertises in the INOA newsletter.

YEP! Absolutely right, it was Al Miles! Thanks...it was making me crazy trying to remember/find some records of mine on this.