Boyer micro digital ignition

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Chris,
Have you changed the stator and accidentally crossed the two wires over. From memory doing that prevents the ignition advancing and would give the symptoms you are experiencing.
Dave
 
o0norton0o,
Its all set correctly, the mk 4 runs fine at this setting. It should be near enough to run above 2k.

Cash/
The wires are correct but ill try swopping them over when I fit the micro unit again.

LAB.
The bosch plugs have W7LTCR stamped on the body, I've fitted BP7ES now as I have 5k ohm caps.
Boyer have replied again and say send it back again as they are stumped.
Is there anyone around the Lincoln area willing for me to fit this unit on there machine to prove it one way or another, id be very grateful. Ive done it so many times now it doesn't take long.
chris r
 
o0norton0o said:
I have a red box micro, and previously used the black box. they both work good for me.

BPR7ES... Just go buy a pair.

anyway,.. when you statically set up your ignition rotor and pick up on the timing side, you rotate the engine and look in the port in the primary side for the mark on the rotor so you can set the position of your points compartment's magnetic rotor. This is to mount your pick up plate and your magnetic rotor to fire close to it's required position. After that is set, you use the timing light to dial it in precisely, since it should run pretty well if it's statically set "close" to where it's suposed to eventually be positioned.

One of the problems is that people mistake the mark on the edge of the raised area where the rotor mark is, as the actually rotor mark, so their initial setting for the pick up rotor is way off because it's aligned to the wrong mark. Unscrew the inspection port plug over the rotor/stator and rotate the engine and view the rotor to make sure you are using the correct mark. It's a common error and easy to make because the viewing port is kind of small and the degree scale obscures a good deal of the rotor too.

Also worth noting the rotor also has a mark 180 degrees out , i.e. At BDC - confirming its near TDC is easy enough once the plugs are out.
 
B bogus, yes the correct marks used as confirmed by the piston's. Apart from that the mk4 wouldn't work if the timing was 180 degrees out, or would it?
 
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