Battery going dead.

I am thinking of adding a XT60 connector between the battery and the loom.
This will enable disconnection of the battery from the loom easily by just removing the seat and pulling apart the connector.
It will also enable connection of a charger using a half XT60 connector to the battery without having to disconnect the wires from the battery terminals.
XT60 connectors seem to have widespread use on drones that use similarly size and capacity batteries to those used on a Commando.
Any comments would be helpful
Thanks

Example of XT60 connectors on eBay : "4pcs XT60 Plug Male Female Connector Sheath Housing Connector with 150mm 12AWG"

Torontonian, That would be a bit more involved than putting the meter across the terminals.

What I can say with 100% certainty is, the current battery on the Norton would not have lasted 4 months through the cold without the relay.

Staytite, the XT60 connectors should handle 60amps and providing you don't have an electric starter, you should be OK, I use them on my electric helicopters and they have survived a lot of use but when pushed home properly, they can be a bugger to get apart.

A relay is easy to fit and forget though.

Tested the other batteries last night.

The T150 was flickering between 12.3 and 12.4 volt with my digital meter, the T140 had a new Motobatt a week after I started this thread and was at 12.5 volts, neither have been run for over 4 months, I couldn't get to the Velo.

The Velo doesn’t want to be checked...

“Don’t bother me with that nonsense old chap. Gentlemen prefer magnetos don’t you know”!

Fast Eddie said:

The Velo doesn’t want to be checked...

“Don’t bother me with that nonsense old chap. Gentlemen prefer magnetos don’t you know”!

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The mag let me down the first time I used the bike, stopped working when it got hot, it now has a little electronic unit in the mag, I do keep thinking about servicing the mag but for now the battery needs to hold charge.

Just checked my Indian FTR that was last used a month ago and that was down to 11.6 volt. I guess there must be something in the fancy dash that is draining it along with the reg/rec.

storm42 said:

The mag let me down the first time I used the bike, stopped working when it got hot, it now has a little electronic unit in the mag, I do keep thinking about servicing the mag but for now the battery needs to hold charge.

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How uncouth ...

I get 1/2 mA leakage with the SH775 (a real one). I use a mini fusebox with a separate fuse to the regulator that I pull in the wintertime or when charging.
My bike does more sitting around now, as do I, so I have also been thinking of going to a disconnect relay like this. I already have relays on my lights, horn and ignition so another one doesn't bother me.

My bike has no electric starter. The return side battery terminal is a spade. I pull the lead off.

Result: isolation.

Fast Eddie said:

How uncouth ...

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It has LED lights too.

batrider said:

I get 1/2 mA leakage with the SH775 (a real one). I use a mini fusebox with a separate fuse to the regulator that I pull in the wintertime or when charging.
My bike does more sitting around now, as do I, so I have also been thinking of going to a disconnect relay like this. I already have relays on my lights, horn and ignition so another one doesn't bother me.

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My FTR has a SH775, I haven't tested the parasitic draw yet, but I am considering building a small rechargeable power supply for the dash to go along with a reg disconnect relay so I can disconnect all parasitic drain without losing the settings every time, maybe!!

Triton Thrasher said:

My bike has no electric starter. The return side battery terminal is a spade. I pull the lead off.

Result: isolation.

Click to expand...

Not all batteries are that easy to get at.

storm42 said:

My FTR has a SH775, I haven't tested the parasitic draw yet, but I am considering building a small rechargeable power supply for the dash to go along with a reg disconnect relay so I can disconnect all parasitic drain without losing the settings every time, maybe!!

Click to expand...

Surely easier to just plug that one in ?

Or fit twin magnetos...

I sorta read most of the thread. I just want to throw this out there. The relay shown below with a fuse is a time saver as far as wiring is concerned. They are not manufactured in any western culture countries, if that is a show stopper. I personally use several on my '65 El Camino hot rod, and to date have not had an issue with any of them. They are available on Amazon.

Schwany said:

I sorta read most of the thread. I just want to throw this out there. The relay shown below with a fuse is a time saver as far as wiring is concerned. They are not manufactured in any western culture countries, if that is a show stopper. I personally use several on my '65 El Camino hot rod, and to date have not had an issue with any of them. They are available on Amazon.

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Good call.

Fast Eddie said:

Surely easier to just plug that one in ?

Or fit twin magnetos...

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You may be right, but where is the fun in that? Nowhere for mags on the FTR but I have been considering one for the Seeley, Struggling to make my mind up, I like the idea of the big fat spark but not keen on the big sticky out thing on the side of the motor.

storm42 said:

You may be right, but where is the fun in that? Nowhere for mags on the FTR but I have been considering one for the Seeley, Struggling to make my mind up, I like the idea of the big fat spark but not keen on the big sticky out thing on the side of the motor.

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I would have thought that a man of you‘re calibre could do the necessary required to fit one behind the cylinder block...?

Schwany said:

I sorta read most of the thread. I just want to throw this out there. The relay shown below with a fuse is a time saver as far as wiring is concerned. They are not manufactured in any western culture countries, if that is a show stopper. I personally use several on my '65 El Camino hot rod, and to date have not had an issue with any of them. They are available on Amazon.

Click to expand...

Thanks for this tip!

FWIW, always use high quality fuses. If you search YouTube "weber automotive fuse comparison" a professor at that school demonstrates how off-brand fuses lack any real quality control.

I leave any intelligent battery charger on a timer set at half an hour max before it shuts off. Caps don't like constant power in doing nothing.

My last post here was Sep 2020. I still have that smart charger connected to my Norton 2008 AGM battery I got from Clubman. It still starts the bike (Pazon) and will hold a charge as long as the battery is being charged. I should let it go for a few days and see what the battery goes down to. I have the same type chargers on my Miata, that (replacemtnt AGM) battery must be 8-10 years old now and they typically last 2-3 years. The original Miata Panasonic AGM lasted 12 years (2000 vintage) I also keep it on my Simplicity mower and the JD 2020 with double batteries for the diesel starter full time. They do seem to work pretty good, the smart chargers, that is. I've been very happy with them. Used to be I was buying batteries every other year. The OEM battery in my 03 Dakota lasted 17 years, but I hardly used it in that time period. It's still on the 2nd LA battery from Wallyworld. I never used the chargers on the Dakota.

storm42's relay is a good install-it-and-forget-It solution.

For those inclined to pull fuses, plugs, spades, or other manner of isolating the battery, why not simply substitute a toggle switch in place of the relay?

The switch need only be opened for long term storage, and would be actuated when the machine is off (at zero load, except for leakage). Thus a switch rated for full output current of the Podtronics is not necessary, as a switch is rated for SWITCHING a load, rather than CARRYING a load. My guess is a 5 amp switch is adequate.

Slick