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Barnett Commando friction plates
- Thread starter J. M. Leadbeater
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L.A.B. said:
Link to page of people arguing about whether over exaggeration is a thing. And some of them are wrong!
Is there much point banning BDM, just for repetition?
Actually, it might be over-repetition.
Craig
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I have run Barnett Clutches for many "over the decades" with no complaints .... I have just beat through the long winded post on clutches .... my fav sentence was "To Finish" ..... sadly , there was another 1000 words which I am ashamed to admit I skimmed because Mr. Leadbeater had already lost me ....
Craig
Craig
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L.A.B. said:
He knows some interesting stuff, but he soon gets through his repertoire and starts again!
lazyeye6
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L.A.B. said:
Thank you! I gave up on reading anything this windbag posts due to the length, over repetition
AND calling a certain respected poster a liar.He is a bandwidth hog and obviously doesn't have a life. I vote that his next egregious anti social missive (and there will be one)
results in his being banned. There are other forums in which he could continue his diatribe,…….for a while.
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1up3down said:
I must agree.
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How hard is it to ignore or not read his posts? Or make him one of your "foes" as described on the User Control Panel and never see them.
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pantah_good said:
Perhaps a strange thing for the moderator to do.
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Triton Thrasher said:
Moderators are like refs, they can't ignore a foul by looking the other way because they like/dislike a player
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If one wants to prevent oil getting onto the clutch plates, you just have to prevent it getting in from the gearbox and from the front of the clutch diaphragm spring. The first problem has been dealt with by various methods, o rings, seals etc. How about a rubber boot over the front of the clutch to stop anything getting in from the front? also block the holes in the clutch drum to allow oil out (or in)
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Dear 1up3 down. If your Barnett plates wear out because they are in contact with the steel interplates EITHER the clutch is continuosly slipping seriously overheating the friction material ( The friction material manufacturers data sheets will give max temp info etc information but Barnett will not or cannot supply such data sheets ) OR the steel plates are NOT of the correct grade of steel and are incoompatable with the friction material (Personally for interplates in my dry clutches I employ CS80 or CS85 cold rolled polished steel strip, I prefer CS85 but when the steel stockholder has to move a VERY LARGE roll of steel strip weighing tons and place it on a machine so it does not spring out flat for a mile or so when undone simply to chomp off a few strips for me I take whatever one they are setting up on the machine for a major customer at the time!!
Personally I have never had a problem with Surflex friction plates when employed dry for racing but clutches do not / should not spend much time slipping because doing so is a total waste of power......thus heat build up in the clutch is minimal...unless you have a 4 speed close ratio box fitted to a 7R AJS and are trying very hard out of Ramsey and up on to The Mountain Mile in the Isle of Man in which case I understood from a friend many years ago that he could have practiced the section at night from the light output of the glowing DRY clutch and that clutch had Surflex friction plates fitted...He was I believe the first British 350 to finish that year and I had fitted an easy to operate diaphragm spring clutch belt system that made riding the bike so much easier which he felt was worth 20 seconds a lap. If your wrist and hand is aching due to heavy clutch lever action you are less inclined to change gear to keep the motor within the power band and simply stay in the wrong incorrect gear and lose a few seconds each time....it aint just tuning engines that gets bikes lapping the I.O.M. faster.... Oh and for those who believe that Neoprene belts do not like heat and go 'all hot and sticky' that Goodyear SuperTorque Pd belt did a few TT laps and never gave a problem.......
Personally I have never had a problem with Surflex friction plates when employed dry for racing but clutches do not / should not spend much time slipping because doing so is a total waste of power......thus heat build up in the clutch is minimal...unless you have a 4 speed close ratio box fitted to a 7R AJS and are trying very hard out of Ramsey and up on to The Mountain Mile in the Isle of Man in which case I understood from a friend many years ago that he could have practiced the section at night from the light output of the glowing DRY clutch and that clutch had Surflex friction plates fitted...He was I believe the first British 350 to finish that year and I had fitted an easy to operate diaphragm spring clutch belt system that made riding the bike so much easier which he felt was worth 20 seconds a lap. If your wrist and hand is aching due to heavy clutch lever action you are less inclined to change gear to keep the motor within the power band and simply stay in the wrong incorrect gear and lose a few seconds each time....it aint just tuning engines that gets bikes lapping the I.O.M. faster.... Oh and for those who believe that Neoprene belts do not like heat and go 'all hot and sticky' that Goodyear SuperTorque Pd belt did a few TT laps and never gave a problem.......
On the subject of a wet primary and running a clutch wet or dry, have a historical anecdote to offer.
Early Sportsters and XRs run dry clutches that are sealed via a derby cover installed over the assembled clutch hub. Since the Sportster clutch adjustment was on the opposite side of the transmission HD simply made a clutch basket cover to dry things up, since no access to the clutch via the primary was necessary. So long as the rivets on the back of the clutch basket were sealed with Glyptal, or similar, and the derby cover was straight and properly sealed the clutches functioned perfectly and were almost indestructible (XR racers slip the clutch without issue meeting after meeting). In contrast, the later Sportsters employed an open clutch basket intended to run wet, which employed a higher count of thinner friction and steel plates. With this wet clutch you could slip it in a drag race type start exactly one time before it over-heated, thereby distorting/warping the steel plates (they’d turn dark blue where the friction material contacted them) and thereafter had to be replaced due to excessive clutch drag. This was a poor design that had limited oil flow to the basket, hence no real means of cooling when highly stressed. I believe in modern bikes the best designed wet clutches have pressurized oil circulating through them, thereby minimizing the possibility of over-heating.
This clutch fit with thin plates and run wet will be a "one and done".
This clutch fit with heavy plates and run dry, via the derby, is one tough clutch that can take a lickin' and keep on tickin'
Early Sportsters and XRs run dry clutches that are sealed via a derby cover installed over the assembled clutch hub. Since the Sportster clutch adjustment was on the opposite side of the transmission HD simply made a clutch basket cover to dry things up, since no access to the clutch via the primary was necessary. So long as the rivets on the back of the clutch basket were sealed with Glyptal, or similar, and the derby cover was straight and properly sealed the clutches functioned perfectly and were almost indestructible (XR racers slip the clutch without issue meeting after meeting). In contrast, the later Sportsters employed an open clutch basket intended to run wet, which employed a higher count of thinner friction and steel plates. With this wet clutch you could slip it in a drag race type start exactly one time before it over-heated, thereby distorting/warping the steel plates (they’d turn dark blue where the friction material contacted them) and thereafter had to be replaced due to excessive clutch drag. This was a poor design that had limited oil flow to the basket, hence no real means of cooling when highly stressed. I believe in modern bikes the best designed wet clutches have pressurized oil circulating through them, thereby minimizing the possibility of over-heating.
This clutch fit with thin plates and run wet will be a "one and done".
This clutch fit with heavy plates and run dry, via the derby, is one tough clutch that can take a lickin' and keep on tickin'
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