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ashman · Dec 27, 2022

I feel for all you suffering cold, snow and ice but I am lucky I live in a sub tropical climate our winter nights only get down to 6c, been watching what you have been going through on the news, I have never seen snow and only our southern states in the alpines see good snow here in Ausland.

Torontonian · Dec 27, 2022

ashman said:
I feel for all you suffering cold, snow and ice but I am lucky I live in a sub tropical climate our winter nights only get down to 6c, been watching what you have been going through on the news, I have never seen snow and only our southern states in the alpines see good snow here in Ausland.

Yes A. it's pretty bad for snow nowadays .
You will love the duplex chain ( IWIS ) choice , from Jason the Chain man . I also ordered in the timing chain and the final drive chain at the same time . The final seems to not wear at all , so I know it's harder and tougher all around .

swooshdave · Dec 27, 2022

ashman said:
No as I ran in a vented cover it was the edge of the belts that were wearing from not running true and had no problems for 3 years then started to try and run off even with 2 belt adjusters just couldn't fix it so I say a bit of wear in the GB, the teeth of the belts had no sign of wear, the front pully guide exploded from the belt trying to run off, but I been back to the chain for over 8 years now without any problems.
While my GB is running smooth as it has always done I leave it alone, no clutch wobble as everything in the primary is running good.
Running chain for 42 years and belt for 4 years, going back to chain really not much difference in running smoothly for me and had my day with the belt drive and my next chain when need replacing be a double chain from the chainman.

Ashley

I’m still taking a risk the gearbox is worn. If the belt doesn’t run true I’ll rebuild the gearbox.

swooshdave · Dec 27, 2022

Blewdy Yaink said:
Hi, Dave. A couple of quick questions, please. Does the 16Amp on the Sparx stator signify an uprated single-phase or 3-phase setup? You mentioned considering the 3-phase system in for comments.
How is the primary side adjuster held stationary during the final tightening process for the upper (and I guess lower) large-diameter gearbox fixings. I seem to recall one is a bolt and nut and the other is a stud with two nuts. The stock setup uses a nut with a couple of ears that fit into the arc-shaped cutaway in the gearbox cradle; thus, when the torque is applied from the timing side, the threaded nut is held. I've always thought that that nut should have flats on it so that it can be held by a wrench of tool (probably would have to be 11/16" or larger). ISTM that putting torque on that nut while your trying to avoid knocking the entire assembly out of alignment is fraught with danger.
How does this work on your two-sided adjuster setup? Thank, BH

Single phase. I’m pretty sure.

When I install the other adjuster I’ll take more pics to show you how I’m doing it.

If you want to do some digging I know I documented it for my other bike.

swooshdave · Aug 1, 2023

Blewdy Yaink said:
Hi, Dave. A couple of quick questions, please. Does the 16Amp on the Sparx stator signify an uprated single-phase or 3-phase setup? You mentioned considering the 3-phase system in for comments.
How is the primary side adjuster held stationary during the final tightening process for the upper (and I guess lower) large-diameter gearbox fixings. I seem to recall one is a bolt and nut and the other is a stud with two nuts. The stock setup uses a nut with a couple of ears that fit into the arc-shaped cutaway in the gearbox cradle; thus, when the torque is applied from the timing side, the threaded nut is held. I've always thought that that nut should have flats on it so that it can be held by a wrench of tool (probably would have to be 11/16" or larger). ISTM that putting torque on that nut while your trying to avoid knocking the entire assembly out of alignment is fraught with danger.
How does this work on your two-sided adjuster setup? Thank, BH

Well, I’m getting back to the belt drive. Took me a while to even dig the bike bench out.

I got the second adjuster installed. Now I’m trying to remember how to adjust it correctly. Luckily the internet never forget even if I do.

Schwany · Aug 2, 2023

If this is an RGM clutch with the AT10 pitch, consider ordering the Red Synchroflex Gen 3 belt. The Red Gen 3 belt is rated for higher temp and is 25% stronger than what RGM used to ship. Get it from RGM if he has any. Can't beat the RMG price and when I was looking nobody in the USA actually has them in stock.

swooshdave · Aug 2, 2023

Schwany said:
If this is an RGM clutch with the AT10 pitch, consider ordering the Red Synchroflex Gen 3 belt. The Red Gen 3 belt is rated for higher temp and is 25% stronger than what RGM used to ship. Get it from RGM if he has any. Can't beat the RMG price and when I was looking nobody in the USA actually has them in stock.

Maney belt drive.

swooshdave · Aug 2, 2023

As I said I found the old post with the instructions.

Maney belt drive instructions

Does anyone have a scanned copy of the instructions Steve sends with his belt kit? I've misplaced mine, no response to emails to Steve himself.

www.accessnorton.com

So the belt is set to just over 20mm. I'm erring on the loose side for now. Drive chain is 1 1/2" which should tighten to 1" play with rider.

All adjusters and gearbox bolts tightened.

Guess all is left is to start it up and see what happens.

swooshdave · Aug 3, 2023

Once I started it up I noticed a lot of clutch wobble. When I pull on the drive chain it doesn't move. I can't remember what I did with the clutch bearing when I put this together. I probably made a note in a thread here...

Mart UK · Aug 3, 2023

Shaft bent?

swooshdave · Aug 3, 2023

Mart UK said:
Shaft bent?

If you see the part when I pull on the belt and the basket moves it indicates to me that it's not the shaft and more likely the bearing. Or the fit on the shaft. Or the C-clip. Or just more bad luck.

Torontonian · Aug 3, 2023

swooshdave said:
If you see the part when I pull on the belt and the basket moves it indicates to me that it's not the shaft and more likely the bearing. Or the fit on the shaft. Or the C-clip. Or just more bad luck.

I ran a belt drive for years with no problems . Pull the outer primary cover . Observe the belt tracking . Must be central running with no sideways driftings .

frank73x89 · Aug 4, 2023

Torontonian said:
I ran a belt drive for years with no problems . Pull the outer primary cover . Observe the belt tracking . Must be central running with no sideways driftings .

Just installed a belt system on mine. Rebuilt trans and engine. The belt keeps moving outward and touches the stator. I loosened the trans mounting bolts, tightened the drive chain while pushing the right side of the trans with its adjuster. To no avail. The belt keeps crawling toward the exterior to the stator. I loosened the cradle bolts that clamp the engine's bottom end and retried to pull the trans sideways. No movement of the trans and still the belt moves outward. I loosened the isolastic bolts and retried to move the trans still no change. I have a new clutch basket (for belt drive) coming as I figured that it might have been machined conical. The front pulley runs straight, and the actual clutch basket doesn't wobble when the engine is running. I'm out of ideas. Any ideas??

frank73x89 · Aug 4, 2023

frank73x89 said:
Just installed a belt system on mine. Rebuilt trans and engine. The belt keeps moving outward and touches the stator. I loosened the trans mounting bolts, tightened the drive chain while pushing the right side of the trans with its adjuster. To no avail. The belt keeps crawling toward the exterior to the stator. I loosened the cradle bolts that clamp the engine's bottom end and retried to pull the trans sideways. No movement of the trans and still the belt moves outward. I loosened the isolastic bolts and retried to move the trans still no change. I have a new clutch basket (for belt drive) coming as I figured that it might have been machined conical. The front pulley runs straight, and the actual clutch basket doesn't wobble when the engine is running. I'm out of ideas. Any ideas??

BTW it's a '72 Combat.

swooshdave · Aug 4, 2023

frank73x89 said:
Just installed a belt system on mine. Rebuilt trans and engine. The belt keeps moving outward and touches the stator. I loosened the trans mounting bolts, tightened the drive chain while pushing the right side of the trans with its adjuster. To no avail. The belt keeps crawling toward the exterior to the stator. I loosened the cradle bolts that clamp the engine's bottom end and retried to pull the trans sideways. No movement of the trans and still the belt moves outward. I loosened the isolastic bolts and retried to move the trans still no change. I have a new clutch basket (for belt drive) coming as I figured that it might have been machined conical. The front pulley runs straight, and the actual clutch basket doesn't wobble when the engine is running. I'm out of ideas. Any ideas??

One or two transmission adjusters?

cliffa · Aug 4, 2023

swooshdave said:
If you see the part when I pull on the belt and the basket moves it indicates to me that it's not the shaft and more likely the bearing. Or the fit on the shaft. Or the C-clip. Or just more bad luck.

Dave, are you sure it's not just an illusion? As you pull on the belt it makes the clutch rotate slightly as it takes up the slack, but is it actually moving closer to the centre stud boss? In the film of the bike running the clutch body appears to run true, but the centre does not (not sure if that's an issue really).

frank73x89 · Aug 4, 2023

swooshdave said:
One or two transmission adjusters?

Only one. The original one.

baz · Aug 4, 2023

frank73x89 said:
Only one. The original one.

It's a lot easier to keep the runout correct with two adjusters

frank73x89 · Aug 4, 2023

baz said:
It's a lot easier to keep the runout correct with two adjusters

You are right. But because I only have one that's why I tried pulling the trans with the drive chain. I'll splash up for the second one now.

Britstuff · Aug 4, 2023

I'm currently installing a belt drive on my 850. Mine seems to run straight and true with the original single sided adjuster. However, it seems like mine is the exception to the rule. Apparently the condition of the lower mounting bolt on the gearbox - the one that acts as a fulcrum for chain / belt adjustment, is critical. In my case it appears to be one of the few components on my bike that was not totally knackered!

My plan B is definitely to buy a two sided adjuster.

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