ATF in the transmission???

When the trans is running on ATF what are the improvements? does it shift better ? Do parts last longer? I tried Redline lightweight shockproof oil ( the blue stuff) in the BMW R60/2 trans and it improved the shifting immediately. Called Redline and they recommended that I use the heavyweight shockproof oil instead and the shifting was not quite so good but certainly better than stock oil. Anybody with an R69 or R60/2 can really benefit.

I use the Redline Liteweight Shockproof also (blue stuff) in my 4 speed AMC box and FUCHS Silkolene 75W90 in my TTI 5 speed.
That blue stuff is awesome, stays stuck to everything in the gearbox top to bottom even if the bike is left standing and unused for awhile.
Regards Mike

Why do I run ATF?

I started running ATF way back when I was racing dirt. It was thinner and created less drag in a transmission with immersed gears. But the biggest reason was because the wet clutch worked better. It made finding neutral possible with the motor running in my KTMs.

Then when I was racing Nortons I used it because it had lass drag and when a little ATF found it's way onto the clutch didn't affect it as bad as gear oil does.

When synthetic ATF became available I switched to that and it did seem to improve the shifting although it was most noticeable in the KTMs.

I did not see any difference in the gear wear between it and gear lube. The Norton gears wear and get pitted with either lube and the KTM gears do not.

The one thing that did improve on the Norton gearbox was the life of the sleeve gear bushing. Whether it was because the ATF was a better bushing lube or simply the fact that it is lighter so it penetrated the bushing better I don't know, I just know the bushing stayed tighter longer.

When I find the time to get the new TTI box installed in my bike I will likely fill it with ATF also. Jim

Has anyone else noticed that the "blue" Redline lightweight shockproof oil separates out in the jug? The top layer is bright blue. The heavy good stuff is gray-green in the bottom of the jug. I've had it a couple years at least.

Hi
Why make it so complicated.
On my MK3, with working starter engine, I have used
ordinary mineral engine oil. Same as I use in the engine.
Everything works perfectly. Not either slipping or dragging.
Vidar

vidar hjelm johansen said:

Why make it so complicated.
On my MK3, with working starter engine, I have used
ordinary mineral engine oil. Same as I use in the engine.
Everything works perfectly. Not either slipping or dragging.

Click to expand...

However, in US terminology, "transmission" generally refers to the gearbox, (and which this thread is about = using ATF in the gearbox) not the 'primary transmission'.

I switched the 90W mineral lubricant in my Norton transmission/gearbox over to Harley Davidson Syn3 20w-50w back when Harley first recommended Syn3 for all lubricating needs in their bikes. That was around 2003 or 2004. I didn't choose the HD oil because of months of anal research, discussion, or arguing, but because I had bought 5 cases at a huge employee discount. Gear changes were a lot crisper with the HD oil plus kick starting took a whole lot less effort. The downside was that it was a bit noisier. Once I ran out years later I switched to a full synthetic 70w-90w, might be 75w-95w, heck I'm not quite sure, but these numbers are close. All of my garage stuff is on the way to Arizona so I can't check. The transmission quieted down and I didn't notice any difference in shifting quality. Kick starting effort did increase. I'm going to stick to the thicker synthetic stuff just because I want to.

Sorry, I mixed some concepts here
Vidar

Bruce Verdon recommends Syntrax 80 for his TTI boxes.

Hi All,

Sorry for the language confusion:I am asking about using ATF in the primary chaincase - contains the clutch and chain to alternator.
And not the gearbox - contains four pairs of gears to have four speeds!

I have used ATF (Castrol TQF) for many years without wear and tear occuring in the primary chain case since the late 1970s
The main reason being it does not gum up on the clutch plates as per the recommended 20/50. I have just checked my manual
from the 1970s and yes it says 20/50 oil! I'm amazed.

I have now found some "classic Castrol TQF" with the note "Non-friction-modified ATF for some Ford and Borg Warner gearboxes
and motorcycle primary cases" I guess the "non friction modified" bit is the reason I used this grade; so the clutch does not slip
caused the use of friction modifiers in other TQFs? Howeve rthe bottle on my shelf was Comma AQF - perhaps I found this a a
replacement as Castrol TQF was no longer available? It has a similar recommendation : Suitable for Borg-Warner automatic
transmissions and torque converters.

https://www.classic-oils.net/Graphics/I ... f.jpghttps

Thanks for all the replies

But sorry to hijack Road scholar's original ask about the use of ATF in the gearbox / transmission - the cast alloy box thingy full of gears and shafts....

Type "F" auto trans fluid was recommended for the Ford Transmissions when I worked in the trade. I dont think it really matters much which ATF [ auto trans fluid ] you use. I use DXIII [ Dexron 3 ] in both g/box and tranny without any problems. Its the same fluid I use in my Land cruiser so is always handy.
Dereck

Just poured some ATF Type F into my MK 111 primary as recommended , instead of stock 20-50 0il. Haven't fired her up yet.

Torontonian said:

Just poured some ATF Type F into my MK 111 primary as recommended , instead of stock 20-50 0il. Haven't fired her up yet.

Click to expand...

Will ATF work in the chain adjuster or will it let the chain slap?

We're gonna find out soon.

JimNH said:

Torontonian said:

Just poured some ATF Type F into my MK 111 primary as recommended , instead of stock 20-50 0il. Haven't fired her up yet.

Click to expand...

Will ATF work in the chain adjuster or will it let the chain slap?

Click to expand...

When I did that I got chain slap. When I then put in 20-50 the slap immediately went away.
Your slap may vary.

Thanks. She is real noisy at startup from slap until the 2 tensioners prime up and kick in ( with 20-50). So we shall see.