A question on rear-sets...

I have two objectives for rear-sets, and I'm hoping someone may have some insight they could share.

1. Keeping my low Euro bars, I'd like to move my feet back a few inches, nothing very radical, nothing that means I'll be laying on the tank, just enough to ease the angle between lower back and thighs. The only rear-sets I've seen move the pegs waaay back and you really need clip-ons - not what I want at all.

2. I'd like to reverse the shift pattern. Having three bikes with three different shift patterns is confusing and it seems that the Norton should the easiest to change which would at least make two of them similar, just with a different number of ratios.

I'd be happy enough if I could achieve either of the above, and delighted if I could do both. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance...

Alex

Check out the CNW ones. They mount on their custom z plates with different length levers to accommodate foot size. Pretty slick and pretty spendy.

This is the dunstall set up , common then , copied from Manx .

A good space ship or steam train welder , could reweld your footrest arms . after youd cut them in half & lost a bit .
Preferably on the bend , to bring em in a ways closer .loseing the Nut Adj. primary or moveing nut OUTSIDE F/R arm.

This'd make them Narrower . The Feet . In relation to ea. Other . when on the Motorcycle . A Coustom gearshift pivoted out on the inner arm
( Outside the re - Chomed wotsit / Inside footrest rubber ! ) with a little linkage to a little arm on the Gear Selector .And Bobs your uncle .
and had a inter & a 99 in this case . :?

O.K. , so the footrest arms are shortened and recromed . or flogged off and cheap ones as the chromes gone utilised . Cast Steel . So any competant welder WHO IS FAMILIAR with welding bits around that size PROPERLY ( Structural )
could :? :shock: Do Them . :| Levers ( footbrake 7 Gearshift ) are pretty simple . Seeing EVERY Road Test thought the Feet Two In To Far Forward , its a WONDER that the factory didnt supply something like this . But then again . . .



Real Live NORTON one , on Manx . Just about visable here . Longer Arms on Gear thigo get less slack , on free movement on pins @ ends . Short arm sloppy .

That ones a McIntosh . New .

I think you'd find that the standard rearsets used on commandos combined with the typical "Euro bars" would be a lit more comftorble then wit clippons. The words clipp ons & comfort are not useually simpatico except for those like me who have suffered two seriousely neck injuries & one lower spine injury. And even I in my "getting older " stage am trying out a set of Tommeselli adjustable clip ons for more comfort. You might as Matt said (if you can decider it) be happy just to cut the stock foot levers shorter to what feels good 4 U. Looks good too. Good luck.

If you go back to about inline with the swing arm pivot the kick start gets in the way, it hits on you shin, had to lay it over under the foot peg.
You don't need to weld the original style pegs if you shorten them but you will need to make new pedals, they come out at slightly different heights, due to the curve at the start of the pegs.
See if you can find a picture of a HYDE kitted bike, foot pegs moved back, flat M style bars and a steped seat, I'm 6'2'' and can ride all day like that, the only time I get wieght on the wrists is on a down hill, the arse dosn't go numb, and the thighs don't start to burn

Back in 1982 I had a Fastback with rearsets - I guess they were the Norton or Dunstall type, which fit where the standard footrest arms bolt on - and "flat" handlebars. This was how the bike was configured when I bought it, and I found it very comfortable for distance riding. My previous bike had been a 250 Ducati with rearsets and clip-ons which I also liked, but I never rode very long distances on it.
Bear in mind though, I was about 27 or 28 years old then. Even so, I intend to set my current bike up with a similar combination to see if I still like it. The "sit up and beg" riding position has never really appealed to me.
I think that bike had a reversed gear lever, but I'm not completely sure. The only photo I have showing the gearbox side was taken when the gearlever, kickstart, and footrest were off the bike.
For my intended setup, I have a reversed (45 degree) gear lever ready to put on.

Cheers
Martin

Alex,
These links show the set I got from Norvil. It puts the pegs right in the middle of the three mounting studs for the stock hangers. The reverse gear lever skips the linkage and converts it to 1 down/3 up. You may have to do some bending to get the reverse lever comfortable. Also, I think the outboard offset of the lever may put some extra load on the bushing in the cover. Originally I used the linkage type but there was a certain amount of play and noise that got to be an issue for me.

I find them very comfortable with Euro bars. This is with the Interstate tank and seat. The Roadster moves the seating position quite a ways forward by comparison, could significantly change the ergo's.


http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/069512.htm
http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/063944.htm

I just got my rear sets and man are they nice. I often use my iPad and can't post pics, so if anyone wants to see them PM me and I'll email you a couple. If you're considering rear sets and want to reverse the shift pattern for your Cdo than these are the ones you're looking for.

Alex, there is a consensus that the standard Commando footrests are too far forward for ideal ergonomics. I certainly find this to be the case. I have also fitted rearsets with lowish but not straight bars and found the ergonomics to suit me much better. I am 5'8" tall. This also enables you to simply reverse the gearlever for one-down-three-up pattern. A standard gearlever will have to be bent outwards to accommodate this or else I believe some of the suppliers of Norvil equipment have them in stock.

Snorton74 said:

I just got my rear sets and man are they nice. Since I'm always on my iPad I can't post pics, so if anyone wants to see them PM me and I'll email you a couple. If you're considering rear sets and want to reverse the shift pattern for your Cdo than these are the ones you're looking for.

Click to expand...

At the risk of appearing stupid (again?), I have to admit that I can't find any mention of rearsets on the CNW site. Can you tell me where to find some info on the ones you are talking about? Thanks.

Ken

I learned about them thru emails and pics from Matt. I'm sure they'll be on CNW's new website when it's done. PM me and I'll email ya some pics. I could also send them to someone who wants to post them on this thread.

Rears are best feet position to best enjoy merging with your Commando, no mater the bar height. I tried the reverse level with a bit of outward bend and worked fine but didn't like having to think opposite my reflexes and there can be an issue to get toe under in leans. Rear sets place foot behind the kicker peg in the pants leg. CNW has em on their mind hope they find a way to retain the gear indicator that over head linkage gets in the way of.

http://www.coloradonortonworks.com/cata ... ngsoon.asp

These are gorgeous BUT $$$! http://nortonnouveau.com/rear_sets.htm

Vince

Except for the extra expensive alloy rear sets with adjustable hole patterns as seen on racers there ain't much difference in the run of the mill steel/chromed versions that around for couple hundred bux or so used. The one shown in this thread with the straight run of the brake cable is best version I've seen for the brake side. I'm making Peel's myself but wavering on the overhead linkage or just reversed lever with reverse shift cam inside.

Unclviny said:

These are gorgeous BUT $$$! http://nortonnouveau.com/rear_sets.htm

Vince

Click to expand...

Are they still available?

hobot said:

Except for the extra expensive alloy rear sets with adjustable hole patterns as seen on racers there ain't much difference in the run of the mill steel/chromed versions that around for couple hundred bux or so used. The one shown in this thread with the straight run of the brake cable is best version I've seen for the brake side. I'm making Peel's myself but wavering on the overhead linkage or just reversed lever with reverse shift cam inside.

Click to expand...

I think the heaviest of rearsets are 90% lighter than original setups.

Not to highjack, but hobot, are all cam-plates reversible? Please, dare I say, expound.

Both the CNW and Nortonnouveau are nice looking, but at $998 and $575, resp., they are a bit pricey for me. Besides, I need them for a MK3 with rear disk brake, which neither of these are made for. I suspect I'll just have to brew my own.

Ken

if you use the linkage type rear sets and want to reverse the pattern than you will need the reverse cam plate to go with this.

bill said:

if you use the linkage type rear sets and want to reverse the pattern than you will need the reverse cam plate to go with this.

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Bill, have you ever done this and if so, what all is envolved? Are all cam plates reversable and if not how would one attain one?

there is more to a reversed cam plate than just turning it around and pressing out the spindle in and out. it takes a recut on the opposite side for the detente plunger. norvill offers the service and I have redone one myself. it the same cam plate as was used on the production racers. they also had a reversed and reshaped shift liver.

pvisseriii said:

Bill, have you ever done this and if so, what all is envolved? Are all cam plates reversable and if not how would one attain one?

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