850 exhaust fitting.

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htown16

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I've fitted several exhausts without the cross over pipes and the collets on both 750 and 850's. This is the first time on a 73 fitting the factory setup. Any tricks to be aware of?
 
1. Make sure you have the shorter Exhaust nuts.
2. Slide exhaust nuts on BEFORE installation of collets.
3. Carefull fitting of complete system with no undue stress on crossover.
 
SERVICE RELEASE

CATEGORY OF RELEASE: NATURE OF RELEASE:

Recommended assembly sequence - exhaust system

MODELS AFFECTED: 1973 850c.c. Commando

DISTRIBUTION: Worldwide (General Distribution)

EXPLANATION: Below is an extract of publication NV1300 "Fitting Exhaust System - Assembly Sequence" which is now included with the instructional literature in each new motorcycle case.

In order to eliminate possible stresses introduced into the exhaust system during assembly and fitting, follow the procedure outlined below:-

ACTION:

1. Fit L.H. exhaust pipe complete with lockring, sealing and tab washers. Run up lockring but do not tighten at this stage.

2. Fit L.H. muffler to exhaust pipe, align the mounting pommels and assemble loosely to the L.H. muffler bracket mounting rubbers.

3. Fit R.R. exhaust pipe complete with lockring sealing and tab washers. Run up lockring but do not tighten.

4. Fit R.H. muffler to exhaust pipe, align the mounting pommels and assemble loosely to the R.H. muffler bracket mounting rubbers.

5. Slide both connector sleeves to the centre of the cross tube. Place cross tube in position and slide both connector sleeves outwards to engage with the Exhaust pipe stubs.

6. Slacken off all foot peg support and muffler bracket bolts in the left and right hand aluminium support plate castings - to allow the brackets to swivel and adjust to the exhaust pipe/muffler alignment.

7. Tighten up the total exhaust system, commencing at the cylinder head lockrings and cross tube connector sleeves. Do not forget to bend up the lockring tab washers.

8. Finally retighten the muffler bracket/support plate bolts.

NORTON VILLERS CANADA LIMITED
May 1973
 
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Would you do all that on a cold bike and expect/hope it to stay that way???

Not a criticism, just surprised no mention made of checking the 'lockring' after it's been run.......
 
I would also add to step 5:

Coat contact surfaces & bolt threads of both connector sleeves with anti-seize compound [NeverSeize] . This will greatly aid future disassembly efforts. Be sure to clean off any exposed compound prior to engine start.

As EstuaryBoy points out, after a short test ride, go back and retighten all fittings.
 
I would leave the lock ring tab washers out.
Cycle several times snugging lock rings each time.
I pretty much check lock rings after every ride.
 
Thanks, excellent info guys. I've always left out the tab washers on other installs.
Drill a small hole into a cylinder head fin and an exhaust gland bolt [this is technically a bolt] fin. Then secure them with safety wire, ala aviation practice. Less weight, no rattling noise and more secure.
 
I would also add to step 5:

Coat contact surfaces & bolt threads of both connector sleeves with anti-seize compound [NeverSeize] . This will greatly aid future disassembly efforts. Be sure to clean off any exposed compound prior to engine start.

As EstuaryBoy points out, after a short test ride, go back and retighten all fittings.

Good advice, I had to hacksaw a cross over tube off that had rusted together years ago
 
Good advice, I had to hacksaw a cross over tube off that had rusted together years ago

Sam,
I first used this trick after spending 90 minutes with penetrating oil and a rubber mallett trying to get the exhaust pipes loose [without damage] on a 74 Triumph T-150. Almost forgot, A MAP gas torch was involved as well! ;)
 
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I drill a hole in one of the fins on the exhaust nuts and wrap safety wire around the bottom nut on rocker covers. Slips off the nut if the cover needs to come off.
 
I drill a hole in one of the fins on the exhaust nuts and wrap safety wire around the bottom nut on rocker covers. Slips off the nut if the cover needs to come off.
Why would you do that????
Wrap the wire around the lower rocker cover nut. No need to drill holes in your fins.
W.T.F. even Mick Hemmings stated that in his rebuild video.
Dumb sods.
That is MHO. Sorry I'm grumpy again.
but thats my take.
 
As was discussed in another thread, i am planning to install an intermediate header support to the front engine mount (which moves with the engine), thus off-loading the exhaust nut/cylinder head joint.

- Knut
 
I drill a hole in one of the fins on the exhaust nuts and wrap safety wire around the bottom nut on rocker covers. Slips off the nut if the cover needs to come off.

I don't drill a hole in the head fin. No need to call me names.
Sorry htown16,
I was editing my response to DE- tune it. but that didn't happen fast enough.
Please for give me.
I'm glad you didn't drill holes in the head. Its totally unnecessary.
Cheers,
Tom
 
I've fitted several exhausts without the cross over pipes and the collets on both 750 and 850's. This is the first time on a 73 fitting the factory setup. Any tricks to be aware of?
Don't fit the cross over pipes. IMOH, go with singles. less hassle and more time to ride with out break downs.
cheers,
Tom
 
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No problem, CNN. If I was buying pipes I would go with the singles, but already have these and they are in good shape.
 
You can always sell them on ebay! Oh shit my bad. Not for the Access Norton forum.:eek:
Or sell it to some concourse dude who trailers his bike to the rally and never rides much.
Too much knowledge said.
Keep on keepin on.
 
Htown,
I have a brand new set of header pipes for your bike that use the collets.No crossover.Pay me for shipping and see if you like them.They are still in the wrapper.
Mike
 
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