750 roadster re build
- Thread starter Cheesy
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possm said:
Its not quite a fastback tail, I dont like the transition to the tail light so much on the proper one. If you ignore the time it took to model it (I did that before I decided I wanted to try making one) there is only 3 odd hours work in it out of scrap wood and a tin of bog, I think I will try and integrate a seat pan into it as well. To make it quicker still Im not going to make a mold, just bag it over the plug, Ill be able to get away with a very light fill and sand due to the peel ply.
For the tank I was thinking more along the lines of an interstate tank or making a large roadster tank.
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Interback? Yes! :mrgreen:
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Josh Cox said:
LMAO
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Painting the whole thing black? 
bwolfie said:
I did it to hide all the casting flaws and marks, a satin black would have been ok as well, but I think the wrinkle is kind of understated yet purposeful.
Just the crank case and gearbox cases (the two inner bits) will be black wrinkle, the cradle, front ISO and frame are silver. The cylinders are just high temp gloss black. Thats probably about my limit on polishing the timing (and later gearbox and primary) covers as well unless I come across the appropriate power tool.
Made some good head way in the weekend;
I took the dremel to the oil pickup hole in the timing side of the case as it really did not line up with the hole in the other case half
Case halves bolted up, timing gear and oil pump fitted, no dramas with this step
I checked the ring end gaps and the pistion skirt clearannces, a couple of the rings were bang on the minimum/maybe a little bit tight (.012) so I touched them up with a diamond hone, the skirts were all good. Now this is probably not the recomended way to fit the pistons but I only have one ring compressor and its too big for the Norton... I sat the piston in the bore and carefully went around with a piece of plastic pushing it into the bore... repeated 8 times. This method works better with standard pistons as there is more clearance between the gudgeon pin and the oil rings. Once they were both in I put the motor on ts side and lined up the fist rod and slid the pin in (already had the clips in the other side of the piston) and put the clip in. Than carefully turned it onto its side and put the second on in.
I took the dremel to the oil pickup hole in the timing side of the case as it really did not line up with the hole in the other case half
Case halves bolted up, timing gear and oil pump fitted, no dramas with this step
I checked the ring end gaps and the pistion skirt clearannces, a couple of the rings were bang on the minimum/maybe a little bit tight (.012) so I touched them up with a diamond hone, the skirts were all good. Now this is probably not the recomended way to fit the pistons but I only have one ring compressor and its too big for the Norton... I sat the piston in the bore and carefully went around with a piece of plastic pushing it into the bore... repeated 8 times. This method works better with standard pistons as there is more clearance between the gudgeon pin and the oil rings. Once they were both in I put the motor on ts side and lined up the fist rod and slid the pin in (already had the clips in the other side of the piston) and put the clip in. Than carefully turned it onto its side and put the second on in.
There is some gasket sealant on the copper base gasket, care was taken to put a minimal layer on! The head gasket was a bit of a pain as a couple of the holes needed to be enlarged to fit properly, that got some gasket sealant around the push rod tunnels and the head drain, I also put a loop of dental floss around each of these openings on both sides of the gasket. The hardest part was getting the pushrods in... a plastic knife between the head and block and a magnetic screwdriver did the trick in the end.
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Wow, that is gorgeous Cheesy !
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