72 750 Combat Roadster project

Richard Tool said:

Addendum - I assume that the fittings on these lines are swaged in some fashion and without the proper dies/ press etc. it is beyond my capability to shorten it myself .

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All that's required is a new -3 'olive'/compression ring.
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/spare-brake-hose-olive-for-3-fittings-g-1205-03b?pn=G-1205-03B

The only tricky part is setting the banjo so it ends up angled correctly when the fitting is fully tightened.

Thanks NPeteN - exactly what I needed - all fittings look the same - looks like I may only need the ferrule

Thanks again L.A.B. - Now that I know these are compression fittings I can tackle it myself. I may even be able to source the compression ring locally - if not , then I can source the components online - NPeteN ‘s link to Old Britts indicates they stock the components.

Rocker feed crossover line shortened - new compression ferules from Old Britts arrived Friday .
Again many thanks to NpeteN and L.A.B. for the help -


Anyone care to weigh in on this next issue ? I have balanced both wheels . The rear took 3oz - more than what I had available in the spoke weight department so I straddled the spoke that needed the weight with two 1 1/2 oz weights. Rim balanced perfectly now but the weights are on spokes that lead in the direction of rotation at the rim . While centrifugal force will of course act on them to move them outwards toward rim will acceleration of the wheel cause them to move along the spoke towards the hub because of the weights inertia and the fact that they are on leading spokes ? The weights have set screws at the nipples and I cross drilled them outside of the slot and safety wired them. I suppose I can either wait and see or take the rear wheel off and see how it balances with the weights moved to the nearest trailing spokes. The problem being I did this balancing in the wheel truing stand with no grease in the bearings and no washers/felt seals in order to minimize friction.
The hubs are now buttoned up with grease, felts etc.
Any input on this would be appreciated .

Thanks -RT

I've never seen any spoke weights migrate towards the center, which is likely physically impossible regardless of which spoke the weight is placed upon.

Danno said:

I've never seen any spoke weights migrate towards the center, which is likely physically impossible regardless of which spoke the weight is placed upon.

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Thanks Danno- in hindsight, had I recognized this concern while the wheel was in the truing stand I could have backed of the set screw and sharply spun the wheel to see what the weights would do - but alas I did not- RT

I’ve had good results using Goodridge “Sniper” line and fittings to make my own custom length brake lines. I cant think of a reason they couldn’t be used for rocker feed lines. That being said I just purchased an AN set of feed lines for my project.

Main harness almost done - only tail lamp remains . Harness has three wires for tail lamp - Earth , tail lamp and stop lamp . The tail light itself is the Emgo unit as supplied with the Old Britts cast aluminum unit. It has only two wires - Earth and power so I am uncertain as to what to do regarding connections - looking for a little guidance here if anyone is feeling generous with their advice .

I have installed the Podtronics R/R unit in the battery area - 12v single phase . I have been informed about the potential for alternator winding damage from shunt type units but have elected to take my chances - don't hate me. I have also relocated the WLA to this area as the Dave Taylor head steady interfered with it in the coil group location .



IIRC the main harness originaly lay on the right side of the backbone area but again the clamp for the head steady interfered with that so I routed it on the left - could not find any reason not to but if anyone has any caveats regarding this feel free ..

Next up is the head lamp harness but exploring my options re: headlamp shell - I may have it replated . It will probably cost more than replacing it with new but I was very disappointed with the quality of the plating job on the new headlamp brackets so I am leary of buying a new shell.

Thanks for looking in - RT

Richard Tool said:

The tail light itself is the Emgo unit as supplied with the Old Britts cast aluminum unit. It has only two wires - Earth and power so I am uncertain as to what to do regarding connections - looking for a little guidance here if anyone is feeling generous with their advice .

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If it has two wires then they should be power for the tail and brake light and 'earth' through the tail lamp housing.

Thanks L.A.B. for the quick response - so red lead is likely for stop lamp ?

Richard Tool said:

Thanks L.A.B. for the quick response - so red lead is likely for stop lamp ?

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Standard harness colours are brown for the stop/brake lamp.
Brown/green for the tail lamp.

Red is earth/ground.
Harness red, if possible should be connected to the tail lamp housing.

The Emgo tail lamp wire could be red but it's easy enough to check if it connects to the brightest bulb filament or not?

Looking at the OldBritts tail lamp it earths through the attachment screws.



If it's this type then its probably the same if there's no earth wire?

Yes , that’s it - I believe I’ve got it now. Soldered up a jumper with bullet to earth in harness and ring terminal to mounting bolt on tail light housing . Black lead on tail light to tail lamp on harness and red lead on tail light to stop lamp on harness.
Once again many thanks L.A.B. For the help .

Cheers- RT

Did you polish your coil mount clips Rick? They look great but shinier than my new AN parts.

Scout63 said:

Did you polish your coil mount clips Rick? They look great but shinier than my new AN parts.

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They are as they came from RGM - coils from RGM as well .
Coil brackets had protective tape on them when they arrived.
I was delighted with the finish on all.
The flag on your avatar says you have returned - welcome back !

I have had a request in another thread for more pics so here they are. I have just finished re wiring the WLA as the schematic supplied with the new Lucas main harness has two errors in it.




Thanks all for the interest and help -RT

That's looking awfully nice...

Yes it is......

Richard that is beautiful , very clean build .... wish I had the skill and attention to detail you obviously have in spades ! .... while I own and Ride exact same model/year as you have been restoring , I approached in much different manner i.e. fixed & repaired as needed while keeping bike in use , my results while much improved functionally , cosmetically, compared to your work it is left wanting .... what I’m saying is , good on you ! Really nice work , and great looking bike !

Thanks once again for the kind words Gents ! It will get ridden regularly when finished ( assuming it will run ... yikes ! )
Then if I have any money/ desire / lifespan left it’s on to the
1956 Dommie 99 waiting in the wings .