71 norton Primary installation

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I don't have that either. What i do have is what they call a Belleville washer. This is a cupped spring washer and my rotor has a skin cut to accept it. Buttons evrything down nicely. Whether it is this or a lock washer, you do need something.
71 norton Primary installation
 
ok after some sorting around with the washers I have I noticed a shim i didnt have in behined the spacer. I have a lock washer sort of thing that has marks that are identical to that of the rotor nut so I identified that as the "lockwasher"

I ususally take pictured while dismantling but for some reason I didnt this time and I am paying for it!
 
My rotor nut came with a large internal tooth lock washer and I re-used it. It seems to hold tight, but I'm sure the belleville ones are an improvement. Not sure about the double cupped spacer, that may be a 71 improvement. Not to worry, if you put things back together the way they came out (if it's original and not been hacked) it will work.

Yeah, you just can't take enough pictures with dis-assembly, but most things are available on line somewhere. Only thing I haven't found is the central oil tank and battery tray layout. I surprised my self how much I could remember after 30 years, but it was nice to see another one that gave me a few hints.

Dave
69S
 
Special Thanks to DogT and pvisseriii for helping me out. I got the primary buttoned up today and I just got back from my second test ride and things are really going well. I won't curse myself though.

I did notice the tail light is out as well as brake light. Also I had to reseat the new exhaust as the kickstart scraped it.

I took the time last night to place a set of euro 2" high black powdercoat bars too. They look good.

Thanks again for the help... I have more questions so look out for a carb question ugh...
 
If you had the 'S' exhaust there will be no issue with the kick start lever.

71 norton Primary installation


Dave
69S
 
The red stuff is POR 15, I think. I've seen a number of vintage British car engine builders use it on the interiors of engine blocks. It's non-porous, flexible and a rust preventative. Not that you need that on an alloy primary chaincase, but sometimes alloy castings are porous and let oil out. I've seen some Ducati Singles "sweat" oil. It might help with something like that. Some people also believe that when applied to the interior of a crankcase it might cut down on windage (should really be called "oilage") by speeding the process of oil sliding its way down to the scavenge pump.

http://www.por15.com/

Pretty sure that's the stuff. It doesn't suit my world view of of Things to Do to Engines, but some people swear by it.

Mark
 
I learn something new every day!

DogT. I have drooled over that Blue S more than a few times. All your previous build posts have been a joy to go through. That bike is cool!

I was originally looking at getting a set of the ss pipes for a few reasons one of which was avoiding the stuff under the bike like the kickstart lever... I just didnt want to wait and bought the cheaper easier to get set. I regret it a little.
 
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