69 "S" Phoenix rises again

I've got the solution for you, Dave. Buy a cheap KLR650 and practice on that. Then put some Avon Distanzias on the Norton. Going up and down your driveway will be a piece of cake! :mrgreen:

The Distanzias make pretty good street tires too. I have a set on my Kawasaki KLX250 and I've been very pleased with them.

Debby

That is an absolutely beautiful looking bike. Well done.

Here's the final pictures, including close-ups, of the bike before I put it away for the winter. Only thing not on is the air filter and I want to mess with the float bows before I put that on. It started up just fine today, first kick after I turned the ignition on, I may run it around a bit on Sunday, it's supposed to be 61F, but I'll wait until spring for the tags and title which means insurance too.

http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg28 ... 0finished/

I'll be checking in often, but probably not too much until I start giving it the workout this coming spring.

Thanks to everyone for all the help.

Dave
69S

Dave,

Thanks so much for all of the great picts. They've answered more questions than I currently have about final assembly.
Beautiful!

Tom

I think I have made it about as stock looking (although improved) as I can for the moment. Note the rear mudguard is a 71, I may have my original repaired and chromed this winter. Also the hand grips are after market, but they feel good. I also have the decal for the Smith's speedo gearbox, just haven't put it on yet. Haven't got the 'reserve' decal on the tank either. I can't believe I've got it done and it works so good with the original electrical system and parts. Personally, I love the points. When I kick it over, it's like it helps me through the rest of the strokes being almost firing on TDC. The Avgas may help for now, but I'm going to try to rectify that. Really nice thing is, I run my hand over the bottom of the gearbox, timing cover, primary cover, swing arm spindles and the sump, and no oil anywhere. Holy Cow.

Tom, what is the number and date on your 'S' if you don't mind? I'm collecting them and I have about 7 so far on this forum.

Dave
69S

I can't believe I've got it done and it works so good with the original electrical system and parts. Personally, I love the points. When I kick it over, it's like it helps me through the rest of the strokes being almost firing on TDC.

Click to expand...

Dave, I like the points best too in a 750 and got same half kick 1st starts plus the eager beaver response. The weak link that ruins the fine starts and idle is the mechanical advance that drys out then wears out and no one repairs or makes em.
This is main reason for so many electronic units. I'm told if one will open it up and heavy oil it pretty regular it my last our lifetime. I got two complete point systems, one installed one in storage to keep '72 Trixie really Norton fine.

You and others inspired me to move on Trixie while warm, got forks serviced, all the while thinking of how sweet to be putt putting over the dead leaves then on to the crunching of THE Gravel - for miles and miles just stoned on slow throbs into each new vista.... deer be damned.

Steve, I like to put 'distributor cam lube' on the AAU and inner parts. It doesn't seem to fly off and get all over everything. I have a 30 year old squeeze tube of it, it lasts a long time. RIG for the guns seems to be about the same thing, if maybe a bit thinner but much better than oil. I doubt if you can find 'distributor cam lube' in the auto store any more.

Dave
69S

Oh cool, learned me something here, so will track some 'dizzy' grease as Trixie's points are soon to be in hand before going back in.

Been a great thread Dave, well done, it could nearly be an offical Norton Manual dont leave her in hybernation for too long!

I like that blue color more every time I see it

Dave,

I'll gladly provide you what i have on my "S". It's a '69 VIN 131633 engine # 20M3S/131633.

DOB unknown to me but with this info 30 people will have answer in 30 seconds.

Again Dave, a wonderful journey, well documented, much better picts than Haynes and someone to ask questions of with a more than" willing to help" attitude.

Thanks ,

Tom

Thanks Tom, you've got the oldest one on my list. 69750S, Bruce in Juarez has the next at 131721 (red) and I have the next at 132031 which was marked APR 1969. Bruce doesn't have his date either, but I bet both yours and his are MAR or APR. I have about 3 out of 9 that I don't have numbers or dates for and I know there are others out there, I just haven't picked up on them.

Anyone else want to fess up?

Dave
69S

I have 134532 sold and rode as an S by Herb at Flint Indian in Flint Michigan. The # puts production September 1969. Last S is said to be 135088 This comes from The Tech digest 3.1 by IONA

Thanks norbsa, that makes 10. My old list shows last 'S' as 135088 in June of '70 and the first 'S' as 131257, Mar '69, but this is not a verifiable list, just something I found on the web years ago, but it seems to agree a lot with others experiences. The list also seems to claim that the 'S' was the first camshaft points model. I assume this means they went from the camshaft side tach drive to the drive off the gear on the top front of the engine.

maximini has 134419 and says it is a Dec 69.

Dave
69S

Another small item. The bolts that hold the strap on the seat were digging into the frame and the bumpers really didn't seem to be seating all that well, plus the seat would hit the top of the LS panel, so I cut some small pieces of 3/4" heater hose and put around the frame where the bumpers hit. Glued them on with GE silicone II. Now it seems to fit better and I have a little more distance between the seat and the panel.



You can also see my battery mounting method with Velcro. I lost those 5 sided metal rings that hook on the tabs in the battery tray anyhow, or have misplaced them or they rusted away and this seems better anyhow, even if not original. That's the Clubman 8 AH Yausa battery and it fits just fine. It looks like I even have a bit of storage area above the battery too.

Dave
69S

Just as sort of a final reckoning on this thread, here are the details of all my work, with lots of help from this forum.

Original parts without modifications:
ammeter
light switch
headlamp ring support
headlamp stays
front brake cable
throttle cable
tach cable
brake lever
air control handle
front and rear reflectors and chrome rings
shift lever
shift indicator
kickstart lever and arm
foot rests
rear brake lever
rear brake cable
one fork top bolt
fork springs/assembly
ham can air filter mesh

Everything else has been replaced, repaired, painted, powder coated, Copy-Chrome nickel plated, chromed or polished.

Complete rebuild on engine including new pistons and pins, rings, cam chain, superblend bearings, con-rod shells, crank and con-rod nuts & bolts. Complete rebuild on head by Leo Geoff including bronze valve bushings, Black Diamond valves, mushroom adjusters.

Complete rebuild on gearbox including all new bearings, mainshaft bushings, replaced one burned shifter fork. Hemmings ball bearing layshaft bearing.

I did all the work including the engine, gearbox, wheels and spokes, forks, painting, plating, polishing, assembly. Only things I didn't do is the powder coat, chrome, swing arm spindle repair, the work on the head by Leo and the seals in the gearbox and tach drive by Fair Spares.

Upgrades from original include:
Swing arm oversize stainless spindle and extra bolts by Nithburg
Gearbox and tach drive seals by Fair Spares
C3 Superblend crank bearings
Non-slotted pistons
Mushroom adjusters
Valve seals
Bronze valve guides
Metal banjos for fuel harness
Amal stay up floats, needle valves
oil filter

Completely New parts:
Exhaust nuts
Exhaust headers
Exhaust silencers
Dog Leg exhaust bracket and strap although I may repair and re-chrome the old one
rubber exhaust and head steady buffers
Isolation bushes, shims, washers and tubes
Rear mudguard
Stainless nylocks and bolts in UNF except for engine and gearbox mounts
Chrome WM2 Rims and stainless spokes
Tyres and tubes
Oil lines
foot pegs, kickstart, shifter rubbers
hand grips
Clutch cable
handle bar
some control lever parts
battery
NJB shocks

Future upgrades:
work on front brake for full shoe contact
Hemmings vernier adjusters
new petcocks
stainless center stand spring
replace old cables
fork improvements
repair and chrome original rear mudguard
re-chrome foot rests, rear brake lever and kickstart lever

Total cost with parts and labor was right around $7000USD.

I think I have everything. Thanks everyone.

Dave
69S

Dave,

You had to go and add it all up! I've got a drawer of receipts from mine but haven't had the balls to add it up. I suspect I'm at about the same amount though. For your serial number list, mine is 131874 - April '69.

Nelson,
Yeah, I couldn't help myself, I had it all in a spreadsheet, it was so easy.

The only chassis numbers I don't have are for possm in NZ and InterstateOZ in Melbourne. The ones I have range from 131633, date unknown, probably March or April 69, to 134532, Sept 69. But then I have a 134419 in DEC 69, so I'm confused. I'm sure there are a few more out there I haven't picked up on. I think Josh in AU also has one, at least a roadster. So it looks like maybe around 3000 or so were made.

Dave
69S

Hi,I have a 69S.
#131403
Despatched 20th March 1969 to Berliner NY.
Fireflake Red.
The other colour for 69 is solid Saphire Blue (maybe pre-August?).
I have side covers in this colour.
The two red wires with lug attach to the bolt through the coil bracket and RH tank mount.
I added an earth wire between headsteady screw on engine and this bolt.
Hope this helps.

rincewind
Thanks, yours is the earliest number yet. Was there a date on the ID plate? The lugs on my 2 double red wires will not fit under the bolt through the coil bracket, or the tank mount, they are too small. The only place that they will reach and fit is where I have them now, under the capacitor screws, but I'm still not convinced that is where they were when I took it apart although my notes point in that direction. At any rate, I don't seem to be having any grounding issues at all, even without a wire to the engine or the wire from the prop stand bolt to the engine either. Go figure, but I'm not complaining.

I think mine should be really classified as a 70 model as that is when it was first registered. Everyone else with a 69 plate calls theirs a 70. For sure it was Fireflake Blue, I had the original gel coat on it until around '73 or '74 when I stupidly painted it black and tried to turn it into a roadster.

Welcome, where are you located? Pictures?

Dave
69S