69 Center Stand Fix Ideas

marshg246

marshg246

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I'm working on two 69S Commandos. In both cases the center stand, on a hard surface, will just hold the bike. Both tires are on the ground. One stand appears new but the frame hole on the timing side is wallowed out some from not being tightened properly - the other side is fine. The other stand and frame bracket are worn where the meet when the stand is down, but the pivots are OK. The rims, tires, rear shocks are all standard.

1) How far should the rear tire be off the ground on these?
2) Is welding up the mating surface to make the stand more upright while down a good option?
3) Has anyone replaced the pivot with the new "top hat" style from later years - of course opening the hole in the bracket and stand?
4) How about welding more metal on the stand where it sits on the ground?
5) Are longer stands available?
6) Other fixes?

I searched the forum, probably missed the thread(s), but cannot find anything on this.
 
You can use a later centerstand by drilling new holes or replacing engine cradle. The early centerstand is not very good even when set up correctly. It's hard to operate and not very stable.
George
 
baldy said:
You can use a later centerstand by drilling new holes or replacing engine cradle. The early centerstand is not very good even when set up correctly. It's hard to operate and not very stable.
George
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Ya, I hate the old stands.

I would upgrade it if I weren't otherwise finished with the bike and if the owner was willing. He wants to show it, so the "correct" stand is important. The second bike is only half done so I probably will upgrade that one - it will be a rider.

BTW, both had the wrong rear shocks (too long) - I thought that was what was wrong and didn't get around to changing them until yesterday.
 
The actual fix is to repair the worn-out centre-stand holes in the frame.
Easy enough on a bare frame, I know, but once done it's right.
 
My later mk3 850 allows the rear wheel to touch the ground, but I am able to rotate it with a little upward pressure and it's stable. Recently replaced rear shocks made no difference.
 
TomU said:
Stick a piece of wood under the center stand. Problem solved :cool:
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Smartass! OK, I guess I deserved it after the poking I've done to you - are you gonna fire that bike before the big event Sunday?

BTW, the darned thing is on a piece of 1/2" plywood and the rear wheel won't turn. We did some experimenting yesterday and I know what it takes now to make it work right - just need a welder.
 
marshg246 said:
BTW, the darned thing is on a piece of 1/2" plywood and the rear wheel won't turn. We did some experimenting yesterday and I know what it takes now to make it work right - just need a welder.
Click to expand...
Wow! You need more than 1/2"? I have a '68 and a '69 and they barely get the rear wheel off the concrete floor with no modifications. I have been considering welding a couple thick washers to the bottom of the stand, but that will only 1/8-3/16 ths of an inch. To get 1/2 inch you would need feet on them like the N15 stand! :confused:
 
Ron L said:
Wow! You need more than 1/2"? I have a '68 and a '69 and they barely get the rear wheel off the concrete floor with no modifications. I have been considering welding a couple thick washers to the bottom of the stand, but that will only 1/8-3/16 ths of an inch. To get 1/2 inch you would need feet on them like the N15 stand! :confused:
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Yesterday, I put a 1/8" thick piece of steel between the frame stop and stand and that made the stand more upright and got the wheel about 1/4" in the air (but still on the plywood). Then I tried a 3/16" thick piece and the wheel was plenty high but the stand was too straight up to be stable. So, I went back to 1/8" at the stop and put 1/8" under the "feet" of the stand - that worked well. I also have to fix the wallowed-out frame bracket on the timing side.

It's shocking how tiny a contact spot there is between the frame and stand - anyone who designed that nonsense has no right to call themselves an engineer or even a mechanic!
 
ditched the stand, went with the paddock stand and bobbins from pitbull
 
My ‘69 S with new stand from Andover Norton did not lift the rear 3.50-19 tire much.

69 Center Stand Fix Ideas
 
ILLF8ED said:
My ‘69 S with new stand from Andover Norton did not lift the rear 3.50-19 tire much.

View attachment 98420
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Yours is at almost as bad an angle as mine. If you were to put an 1/8" thick piece of steel between the frame stop and stand stop on both sides you would be properly in the air and your stand will still be as stable as they ever are. Of course, that's just a test - weld buildup is what will actually fixit.
 
marshg246 said:
Yours is at almost as bad an angle as mine. If you were to put an 1/8" thick piece of steel between the frame stop and stand stop on both sides you would be properly in the air and your stand will still be as stable as they ever are. Of course, that's just a test - weld buildup is what will actually fixit.
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No issue here…..I sold it last year. By the way it only had 2500 miles from new, so I doubt much wear.
 
ILLF8ED said:
No issue here…..I sold it last year. By the way it only had 2500 miles from new, so I doubt much wear.
Click to expand...
It's a STUPID design. The contact patch on each side is less than 1/4" square and the steel is malleable. My guess is that after it's shown a few times, I'll get the job of changing to the cradle mount stand. When I rebuild the other one, I will do that.
 
So, long story covered in another thread, but the engine is out of the bike right now and last night I noticed the rest of the center stand problem. The frame is bowed upward a small amount on the timing side, and about 3/8" on the drive side. This causes the crossmember and center stand mount to be higher than they should be.

So, now I need to rig up a way to pull the frame back to true. I'm pretty sure I can make something to do it, but if you know of any tubing straightener bar that would fit I would like to hear it.
 
The only type I have seen made up by my old Forman was for a prop shaft on a fishing trawler , it had a profile cut heavy frame which hooked over the shaft and had a large hydraulic ram , you could make a smaller version but would need some type of compensator plate for the hooks etc , so as not to damage tube , or could you sit /clamp half the frame on a steel bench bolt some legs to a front engine mount to floor and rig a chain block to the leg of the bench ? Bit of heat ?
 
Shelby-Right said:
The only type I have seen made up by my old Forman was for a prop shaft on a fishing trawler , it had a profile cut heavy frame which hooked over the shaft and had a large hydraulic ram , you could make a smaller version but would need some type of compensator plate for the hooks etc , so as not to damage tube , or could you sit /clamp half the frame on a steel bench bolt some legs to a front engine mount to floor and rig a chain block to the leg of the bench ? Bit of heat ?
Click to expand...
I have two ideas I'll try. First is similar to what you said. Just try a rachet strap around the frame and to pull then down. Since the strap won't be going straight down I doubt it will work. If not, piece of 4x4 wood with a piece of 2x4 stacked one top of each end and with a "V" slot for the tube to sit in. Cutouts for anything in the way. Goes under the tube. Then a "U" bolt over the tube and through the 4x4 and something to protect the tube. PITA to build/setup but will work. Can't heat - powder coated.
 
I'm still dangling in the breeze on this. The frame is straight. The rear shocks are correct. The pivots are good. The center stand has been built-up at the stop to sit at a decent angle (not too far forward), the "feet" have been built-up about 1/8" and still the rear wheel is on the ground. The new owner will show the bike so it cannot have a newer stand.

With the stand removed and being held vertical on the bench, from the bench to the center of the pivot hole is 8-3/8" so without the build-up, about 8-1/4".

I would appreciate it any of you who have a 68-70 stand on the shelf would measure so I can see if this stand is normal. It appears to me that it should be about 9".
 
marshg246 said:
I'm still dangling in the breeze on this. The frame is straight. The rear shocks are correct. The pivots are good. The center stand has been built-up at the stop to sit at a decent angle (not too far forward), the "feet" have been built-up about 1/8" and still the rear wheel is on the ground. The new owner will show the bike so it cannot have a newer stand.

With the stand removed and being held vertical on the bench, from the bench to the center of the pivot hole is 8-3/8" so without the build-up, about 8-1/4".

I would appreciate it any of you who have a 68-70 stand on the shelf would measure so I can see if this stand is normal. It appears to me that it should be about 9".
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Can't much help as the previous bike ( 70 S ) , fell over on the c - stand on hot pavement . Got rid of it (Center stand ) , and later the bike itself ( moving/ break up money issues ). It needs re-work /rethinking for sure. The side stand strangely enough is superior to later long types in my opinion..but the foot is small as the feet of the center stand are virtually non existant. Hence a fall over imminent as stock.
 
Aside from sourcing another stand and hoping it is longer, your options are pretty limited.
I am not sure how you built up the feet so far, but assuming you laid on another layer of material in the shape of the original pads, you need to put on a thicker pad until you get the lift you want. If it is not too thick and you arc it to the tube like the original, almost nobody will notice.
The best fix is to cut the stand, insert two spigotted sleeves, and extend it. Done right, it will get by any rivet counter.

I am reminded of the bodge that Triumph did for their 500 twins. Some models had 18 inch tires, some 19 inch. Check out what they did to the stand for the 18" model. What a mess.
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