22 year old and my first norton 650 ss :) from england

Stock 650 SS here, good strong brakes. Can't say what the linings are, except that they are new, it came to me this way, lots of new parts on it.
I have a new twin leader Commando type that could be fitted to the bike, however I suspect it would be a cosmetic upgrade but a functional downgrade, so the stock single leader will stay.
I did change to a Newby belt drive mainly because I could not get the stock clutch to hold, secondarily to get away from the leaky tin cover problem. Two problems cured with one change, but it was close to $1000 CDN with shipping.
Newby's belt drives also include his terrific dry clutch, a lightweight thing of beauty that works as good as it looks.

Glen
 
HI everyone can't thank you enough Ill check out Newby's belt drive and the magura bits for sure :) got a hydraulic clutch on my bmw had a few bad brakes on my left wrist so its something I really struggle with on the ss although I've only had it down the road with this darn mudguard issue as the old one was binding the forks, looking forward to turning up a belt drive asap
 
18000 sheets per hour is incredible...do you have ink drying problems? I am from the old school, using even older machinery and setting color on the fly...and that is about 6000 sheets per hour. I shudder to think about it. I was a good at camera and stripping...ask your father what that is. Anyway, good luck with the Norton and keep us posted. Hope you can get paid for all those back hours.
 
Awesome I remember doing camera work with dad when I was a kid, all ctp now, what are you running? I cut my teeth on a Roland favorit an a sm74 when I left school at 14 while studying pre press at college great times in print, its got an Anilox coating unit with 3 ir dryers in the delivery seals the ink in and lets you run the speed also to back the jobs ip straight away as sheets are bone dry when they land in the delivery, is mad u can actually make ready on your next job while you are running, and it will load air settings an last scanned colour settings in the axis control when you get repeat jobs from pre press. Fascinating how its progressed I tend to be in pre press or seeing customers now adays.

Unfortunately cant see me ever getting any of the money I'm owed at some point in going to have to make a decision as I cant afford to get a house on the wage I'm on, joys of a recession I guess not many jobs about in the UK exciting times though, one of the lads is aiming to do 200,000 sheets In two days from today :)
 
Paid a visit to the Norton tonight decided to keep working on her in the old Workshop seems more period :) and fitting

got in touch with Bob Newby and got some prices on the belt drive, looks like It might be the right option to go with,

once I've sorted all the front mudguard,

going to fit all the carbs this week

trying to decide what tyres to put on, not to mad on the look of the gold seals
 
Hey Tom - I went for the Newby kit for my project bike, and it's a beautifully engineered piece of kit.

With my Dad's 650SS though, we went for the RGM kit, principally because it's made with Commando bits.
The diaphragm clutch is wonderful, it's really easy to set up and it's featherlight on the lever.

Roger at RGM is a good guy - helpful and really knowledgeable about the bits he makes and sells.
I can't recommend the RGM belt drive kit enough!
 
Hi mate thanks for the reply whats the pull like between the newby one and the RGM kit?

featherlight sounds awesome to me with my dodgy wrist, was great sitting on the 650 ss again tonight can't wait to try crack it up again at weekend,

whats the order for the gaskets and the tufol insulators

is it gasket ? tufol? gasket? manifold? gasket? tufol gasket?

got the thin manifolds for the concentric to put on :)
 
I wasn't worried about a heavy clutch on my project bike, because I knew from the outset that I would be going for a hydraulic clutch.

The downside of the Newby kit is all the springs to adjust evenly - not an issue with the Commando clutch centre!


Yes, we used paper gaskets each side of the Tufnol - paint them in Wellseal a couple of days before you fit them, and it will help you make sure you get a nice airtight seal.

There is no need for a gasket between the manifold and carbs, because there is a rubber o-ring on the carb that seals it.
Give the o-ring a smear of silicon grease (or engine oil) to make sure it doesn't dry out and get crispy.

We managed to find some original Tickle finned manifolds at an autojumble, so will fit them over the winter :D
 
Whichever type you decide to use, it's also a good idea to fit the DynoDave clutch pushrod seal. About $40 for the Dominator version as I recall.

Glen
 
Cheers mate was wondering how to stop that noticed a fair bit kicking around in there even though I've had it empty absolutely brilliant I'll get one on order


this awesome regarding the order I'll get them on over the next few days, got to oil the cables to shame they aren't nylon lined like the lc's such smooth operation
 
If you want to build an historic racer, the easiest way is to use a BSA twin frame with 60s Triumph fork yokes and a JAWA two valve speedway motor. You still have the problem of getting a decent front brake and gearbox. However it is still probably the cheapest path into classic racing. You cut out a set of engine plates from 8mm aluminium with a jig saw.
 
actually been living like it's the 60's haha and restoring to Li 125's for a mate at work hoping to go to mod's vs rocker things this year, thing Is' I've sorted there scooters nearly lol so need to get a shift on with my Norton,

carbs going on this weekend fix the two oil leaks, somehow try and track down a darn rear mudguard got to be one somewhere that someone isn't using, and get some tyres thinking avon road riders?

have I got this right lads and ladies? Head, thin gasket, tufnol, thin gasket manifold, thin gasket, tufnol, then carb? :)

or is it

gasket, tufnol, gasket tufnol, gasket manifold, carb :)
 
I think you only need 1 phenolic heat spacer between the head and manifold (and no gasket).
The carb bolts directly to the manifold because the flange has a rubber O-ring. No gasket or heat spacer is used.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe it's:
Head, phenolic spacer, manifold, O-ring, carb.

And I think you need the longer 1" manifolds or shorter studs.
I used the 1" Webco intake manifolds which came with the studs.
22 year old and my first norton 650 ss :) from england
 
Are you able to remove the intake rocker cover with the carbs installed on the short manifolds?

Here are a set of 1" manifolds:
22 year old and my first norton 650 ss :) from england
 
Interesting points lads, how do they run with the longer manifolds know Paul dunstall mentioned it in his book breifly

Was told it would misfire but think I was flogged the wrong length of studs did find some slightly shorter ones to try

Have got the monoblock manifolds :) still
 
I think the Commando 750 with the 14 in intakes ( valve to jet )
ran o.k. with the stock ign. Very O.K. :wink:

With the BSA Adv. , I think , it was either cylinder below 1.000 rpm , not both , and fluffy off the boil .
Cam came in at 3.500 . Stutter @ 3.2 at times .Megaphonitous they called it .

ONE MUST KEEP NOTES , or you can sell yourself short , as far as pulling in the Horizon .
 
gahhhh, ok options lol the shorter studs I was sold.. are the same length as the other ones darn it

so here we go,

like this but alas the stud is to short so not mono block studs,
 
Hi Tom

If the studs are to long just cut them down to the size you want them, easy fix as long as you clean up the cut so the nuts screw on without any problems, anyway your Norton is looking great, I have to get back into building my 650 Manxman, have been a bit busy since I started on it 3 years ago now and haven't touched it for the last 2 years with too many other jobs happening around me.

Ashley
 

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