22 year old and my first norton 650 ss :) from england

Count your self Lucky Bob ! Yeah shes a stroppy girl that's for sure, after experiencing the electronic ignition difference on the Commando it's got me thinking about what to do regarding the Mag on the 650SS first thing first though is to get this clutch sorted once my rd250lc is sold hopefully this week :)

Considering putting new plates in as well on the clutch.
 
Looking at the side shot of your plates ,they are rubbish. The plain plates are usually the problem with slight buckles that are not easy to spot ,they should lay absolutely flat on a flat surface ,even a 10 thou gap would be enough to f--ck up the clean lift. The friction plates may be ok. Check the new ones too,and send back if not flat.
 
Cheers Bob will do :) gonna do an order with Andover in the week itching to get out on her again.

Gonna order..
New spring cups
New cups
New friction and plains
New nuts

Quick question for those running the Dommie clutches with 9 plates like this one. How hard on do you all set the nuts? From memory in the book it mentioned line the top of the nuts with the top of the studs something like that gonna dig the manuals out tomorrow.
 
norton_rider said:
after experiencing the electronic ignition difference on the Commando it's got me thinking about what to do regarding the Mag on the 650SS
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A mag in good condition should be great on a 350 degree twin. A mag has the huge advantage of being entirely independent of the rest of the electrical system. So even if the loom, battery, alternator go up in smoke, it’ll still run fine!

I’d keep the mag and research where to send it for a full refurb.
 
Cheers Eddie an bob yeah the Mag was actually refurbed by the previous owner :) might just leave it as is for now then. Fix the clutch then get rocking!
 
norton_rider said:
how hard do you all set the nuts? From memory in the book it mentioned line the top of the nuts with the top of the studs something like that gonna dig the manuals out tomorrow.
Click to expand...

The manuals do state nuts flush with top of studs.

FWIW, here is my recent experience. I installed new Barnett friction and plain plates. These are designed to run in oil, and have more "gription" in oil than Andover plates. Furthermore, I am running type F ATF in the primary, which is said to give a 35% greater c.o.f. than oil. Considering these two factors, I backed off 1/2 turn on the nuts to reduce clutch pull.

I am not experiencing any clutch slip. If I find it necessary to open up the primary, I will back off another 1/2 turn.

One thing about the Barnett plates ..... they stick when the bike is laid up for a short time. Every start up must first free up the clutch. Except for that, I like my present clutch set up.

Slick
 
Cheers Slick appreciate it mate, pretty sure mine had incorrect springs in and the cups have grooved up because of it +. Didn't help the replacement nuts were rubbish backed themselves off like the originals did. Getting some from Andover this time round.

Just to double check I'm understanding it right for when I come to fit all the new bits. The top of the nut flush with the stud that comes up the middle of the nut you tighten with the forked tool? not the edge of the nuts flush with the cups the springs sit in?

Thanks again lads really appreciate all the advice.

Itching to get back out on it asap :)
 
Yes, top of nuts flush with top of studs.

If it were me, I would run Type F ATF and back off 1/2 turn from the recommended setting.

Slick
 
You are still missing a point - doesn't matter where the top of the nut is on the stud, the most important for these old clutches is all the plates are parallel to each other and to the inside of the basket when engaged, plates are straight, and basket is free of grooves where plates move.

Late to the party, but 650 SS was always intriguing bike for me so I read your thread with great interest always wondered how it compares with my BSA A65.
After selling A65 I thought about Nortons, but decided Trident T150 will be easier to live with.
Not true :).
 
Cheers Adam appreciate the tip! :) Last time I had the opportunity to ride it one of the springs was completely undoing itself so nocking itself outta plonk watched it doing it.

Looking forward to getting stuck in.

What do you think of the T150 my dads bro has been going on about them a bit :)
 
The small tool that is sold to adjust the clutch nuts is usually rubbish to use. I bought the biggest screwdriver I could find at a boot sale and ground a slot in the blade and then ground the blade to be a good fit to the nut slot. So easy to use. The rubbish tool goes in the tool kit for emergency use only.
 
Don't forget, you can always clean the studs and Loctite nuts in place of your choosing - you did everything right in the short movie looking for the best point of clutch engagement. I know you are waiting for better nuts, so I hope they will be tighter.

73 T150V is brilliant when going right, easy to start, good acceleration, light clutch, semi good brakes but front disc lets me not to use rear in city traffic, very good handling with quite unforgiving suspension, takes 2 x more gas than your Dommie, but every point I write about was researched by me, learned and perhaps improved comparing to stock.
So it took 3 years of riding and wrenching to get it to current point, and it's not even painted yet :).
 
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" after experiencing the electronic ignition difference on the Commando it's got me thinking about what to do regarding the Mag on the 650SS "

The Early Commano ( & AMC ) points Ign set up , that goes where the Magneto does , can be electronicified .
Plus theres E I set ups complete to replace Magnetos .

But a ' As New ' magnetos likely better .bar pre 56 ones with the small bearing so the shaft snaps .

Plus SR II s may be purloined from massey fergusons or whatever . Hair Raising output at 10.000 rpm . so they say .
22 year old and my first norton 650 ss :) from england


You need ' The Flange ' obviously . Think SR1 is single , II Twinn , 4 tractor . so its ' mix n match ' building one .
the Std. A Adv. fits - same taper .
These are the rotateing magnet suckers . The Rotateing Armature is more susceptable to vibration chaos , long term .
HUNT Mag is similar .
Theres L & R hand rotation , so check that .

Pile of old SRs of stationary motors etc tc at a agricultural fair here in Aus , for $ 50 - $ 100 . Came on BSA water pumps too .
 
Cheers Matt brilliant post as usual :) Been using Castrol Chatsworth classic monograde in the 650SS anyone else using it? Just been reading through Jim's amazing oil research
 
I have used that oil for many years no issues. I am currently using 10/40 fully synth Yamalube with no apparent ill effects. But only because I was given a few gallons for free!!.
 
Keep your magneto and run it with unsuppressed caps. Had my old gal for over 40 years and it took me 20 to figure out why it wouldn't tick over steady even after a Lucas refurb. ATF has worked for me in the primary. Mine's a bitsa but part of the family.
 
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