1972 Combat Commando.

Do not let it idle until after like 10 min on/off over 2000 rpm regardless of how rough it may not idle, then after cam/lifters fairly bedded in can take time to diddle the details for real life use. Many a engine life shorted by too timid inital run in. Change gear box oil too after a first good road run. Check oil and brake fluid on each new shut down for a while to get sense of how often to check later.
Definitely over fill everything to factory levels to get sense of how much to fill after levels have stablized to real life levels. Check primary tension soon as fully heated .... Make peace offering to neighbors to tolerate a bit more of your Norton songs. Beware THE Hinge lurking going hot into unknown turns texture just fine as can be --- until... Best I try on each ride not to - every ride induces some hinging events to back off of or control - even in city traffic below 50 mph, yet in special places with good surface and bank I can drift rear out over powering on far over leans just fine w/o any special skills or effort passing though 80 mph on Combat power band uprising. None of this applies to tri-linked Peel, in case you happened to of missed out a vital link or two to really kick up heels on a lightened up pumped up Commando special.

I got the throttle cables sorted out. I had the air screws in too far, reset them. Re checked head torque. Now off for another attempt.

no joy in Mudville, Casey has struck out.

It starts easily, runs rough, seems like carbs. Timing is close.

Bigger problems. Steady stream of oil comes out the head, at the level of the forward studs and bolt. I can't pinpoint the source.
Apon tightening the hardware I broke a forward stud, level with the head :evil:

So off with the head for a 3rd time. i am spent. I can't take much more of this today.

bwolfie said:

no joy in Mudville, Casey has struck out.

It starts easily, runs rough, seems like carbs. Timing is close.

Bigger problems. Steady stream of oil comes out the head, at the level of the forward studs and bolt. I can't pinpoint the source.
Apon tightening the hardware I broke a forward stud, level with the head :evil:

So off with the head for a 3rd time. i am spent. I can't take much more of this today.

Click to expand...

Would that be the #1 forward central stud?

Mine pulled out out once. I drilled and tapped the hole in the cylinder to 7/16- 20. I use the appropriate length allen (hex head) bolt in that location. I also upped the torque for that fastener to 35 from 30. It has been rock solid ever since.

I really like this setup and it just seems proper for this location and function.

Had a similar leak on my head. Was the right rear rocker spindle cover missing a gasket. The oil shoots down towards the spark plug but goes into a center channel in the head which brings it to the front of the engine. Looked like a nice waterfall of oil.

All 3 covers are leak free. It looks like oil was going from the pushrod tunnel up the forward studs and out. the head gasket was dry from the studs outward, but wet from the studs to the tunnels.

I have some spare studs in my pile of hardware, but no spare head gaskets. I.m going to stop at the only British shop in town today and see if they have one. Otherwise it's order and wait or drive down to Kenosha and see T.C.

Either way I'm going to drag out the Yamaha for Saturday, I just need to reinstall the original front brakes. There is Just no time to shakedown the Norton.

Not the rocker covers... The little oval rocker spindle covers.

Not sure what you are running for oil feed lines, but worth checking all around the fitting. If you have the old lines, these will split and crack right where you cannot see. And as batrider point out they will spill unnoticed, drool down and emerge front and center at the joint. This has fool many, including myself. The lesson is always learned after the head has be removed once or twice.

This is not to say that this is your issue, but should be checked, particularly with all that good oil pressure you seem to have. Got a guage yet?

Worth every freaking penny. If you run a shut off or check valve you should leave home without an oil pressure gauge. Even if you don't, it is grand confirmation as you head on down the road. "WOT away, BABY!"

I have venhill SS braided oil lines on the head. I don't trust push on plastic. I am fortunate, the oil pump works great. I had lots of oil coming to the head just priming it with the kick lever. Only took about 20 kicks to fully prime.

I might add an oil gauge at some time. I have some here, just need to get some lines.

I picked up a copper head gasket at the local shop. $23.50 with tax. Not bad, the cheapest online was $30 shipped.

I'm glad the shop is still open. The owner passed away last year, great guy, a bit of an odd duck. One of his sons has taken over the shop and is in the process of modernizing and streamlining.
They also sell knives and air guns. He is selling those out and focusing on British bikes. Also working on online sales. I know there is a treasure trove of parts there. I got to see the basement once, full of goodies. There is also a garage out back stuffed full. I might have to stop in there one day and have another look around.

I also need to let him know about this forum.

Only took about 20 kicks to fully prime.

Click to expand...

Oh oh, this has been discussed as bad practice as no zn-ph protective layer formed yet. Better to pump as much in crank as can then start and hold breath til oil returns at 2000-ish rpm level. But how much wear can 20 dry turns do anyway, even with assembly lube. Can't wait to hear how it makes ya grin in time.

Valves fixed, piston cutout fixed, Forward studs replaced, copper head gasket installed, and everything is back together ready to try again.

IT LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I had it running for a few minutes. Most of the oil leaks are down to a few drops a minute. I have the sources pinpointed. The worst one is self inflicted. (bolt for the quick change cam bearing is thru the case, weeping from the threads)

Sounds like a beast. And shakes the ground accordingly.

Here is a quick video of the Thunder!!

Great video of a great machine !!! Congrats on a super build, cheers.

Fantastic!! Congratulations on a great build and on saving another one.

Ugh, annoyingly high idle but good wisdom on a new birth, so way to go after long saga with mood swinging events. Flashy blue will draw a crowd - bet ya can look at it longer than naked girl too, definitely easier to listen to.

It's alive! Love the sound!

Gatsby

Had a little more time this morning for a little more running. Started 3rd kick. I have all the oil leaks fixed except the ones I created with the cam bearing. I'll have to do some disassembly to fix that.

I rode it down to the corner and back twice, less than a block total. It shook one rear turn signal loose. Tightened both up.

Man is it loud and violent, but smooths out as you move. I love it. Now on to tweaking, fixing and slowly learning to trust it.

And now that it is a runner I can get back on the alloy project. I already updated a little progress from last week.

I am going to enter the combat in the most improved contest. I figure it sat for 30 years it should qualify.

I started the teardown on May 25 2012, First startup was July 30 2012. I didn't think I would get it done that soon.

Before:

After:

Yeah but you lost those cool bars and silencers! :-0

Bread pan under the engine reminds me of working on radials!

If it ain't leaking it's empty. I missed out on the radial era of aviation. The best I got was old PT6A-45 and -65's on the Shorts. Our company ran them ragged. And blew them up often. Nothing like seing the side if the fuselage peppered with holes from turbine blades.