Small 12 volt lithium ion bateery for use with Boyer

How much current does a 12 volt Boyer draw, when it is being use on a twin cylinder four stroke motor doing 7000 RPM ? Most of the power tool batteries are 16 volt and could be used with a ballast resister.
 
Also need to check charging requirements aare matched by whatever RegRec you are running. Been a few reports of lithium batts melting down/catching fire in our commandos and other bikes from improper charging specs.
 
I have use this on both the 650 and 750 (both now with Boyer ignition, powerbox and LEDs, 750 has a GPS speedo)

www.screwfix.com

Sealed Lead Acid Battery 12V 1.2Ah - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Maintenance-free. Computer-designed lead, calcium, tin alloy grid. Long service life, float or cyclic applications. Low self-discharge. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com

Initially only for the Boyer to aid starting and inhibit stalling at idle with incandescent bulbs. Then having fitted the GPS speedo its necessary I guess.

I know it's probably not ideal, but given the price I thought I'd try it. That was a few thousand miles ago on both bikes, and I've covered 500 miles in a day on the torturous 750 racer and it's been great.

No leaks, no fires, no explosions. Living dangerously!!
 
Since the bikes will operate without battery power as long as there is a functioning 2MC capacitor and the alternator is putting out sufficient power, should not matter what 12v battery you use as far as boyer EI is concerned. May take a few added kicks to fire up and may have some issues while running high consumer incandescents at low rpms, but should be OK generally. I once had abatt die from being over charged/bloated when the zener died. Bike started and ran ok on the capacitor alone and the Wassell EI. Idle got dodgey if I had the turn signals on. That was with stock one phase stator.
 
Tornado said:
Also need to check charging requirements aare matched by whatever RegRec you are running. Been a few reports of lithium batts melting down/catching fire in our commandos and other bikes from improper charging specs.
Click to expand...
It's for a race bike
So no on bike charging system
 
acotrel said:
I found this on the web.
THere is a Makite 12 volt 2 amp-hour battery which is lighter and amsller than a cigarette pcket. Getting the charger and the connectots might be a problem.
I am done with using lead acid batteries whi need to be maintained if you use them.

Click to expand...
There is some new battery technology out: Absorbed Glass Mat

Looks very promising.

Totally sealed, many other benefits, including no spontaneous combustion.
 
KiwiShane said:
Probably get a better deal if you buy the drill and charger together:)
Click to expand...
I think I would have to buy two sets, to get the connection from the battery to the Boyer.
The Makita 12 volt 2 amp-hour battery ciots $79 Australian. That first ad I posted looks as though the chargers can also be bought separately.
My problem is mainly, if I fill the battery with acid to use it, I need to keep charging it, so it does to clog-up with sulphate.
Another alternative might be to buy a solar-powered batterry charger and stay with lead-acid. The lithium battery is much lighter, and that is always good.
The Makita battery is really gem. If it had sensible connections, I would have bought it.
 
Fast Eddie said:
I cannot see the point in trying to adapt something like that when there are perfectly good motorcycle specific products on the market !
Click to expand...
Motorcycle lithium ion batteries all seem to be too large and heavy. The drill bastteries srem to be much lighter. I think my lead acid battery weighs about I Kg. When you replace your casst ieon cylinders with aluminium, you probably only save about that much weight. The Makita drill battery is very light.
That socket on the base of the drill, is the bit I think I need.

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Antigravity 401 4 cell powered a Boyer and now a TriSpark on my street bike. No problems. About the size of a fat wallet. You need a reg/rec that tops out at 14.2V so you don't overcharge. Both over and undercharging a lithium battery will reduce the battery life. Easy peasy to wire the circuit up with an alternator. If not running an alternator, you have other issues to deal with to make it reliable on the street. I would not use a lithium LifPo4 battery on the street without a charging system. I would not expect the battery to last that long on a race bike with no charging system.

Is there an armchair vintage racing category for 80+ year olds?
 
AndyDMC said:
I have use this on both the 650 and 750 (both now with Boyer ignition, powerbox and LEDs, 750 has a GPS speedo)

www.screwfix.com

Sealed Lead Acid Battery 12V 1.2Ah - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Maintenance-free. Computer-designed lead, calcium, tin alloy grid. Long service life, float or cyclic applications. Low self-discharge. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com

Initially only for the Boyer to aid starting and inhibit stalling at idle with incandescent bulbs. Then having fitted the GPS speedo its necessary I guess.

I know it's probably not ideal, but given the price I thought I'd try it. That was a few thousand miles ago on both bikes, and I've covered 500 miles in a day on the torturous 750 racer and it's been great.

No leaks, no fires, no explosions. Living dangerously!!
Click to expand...
I use the same batteries on my bikes. 1.2 AH , 500 gr .
They seem to last forever.
When my 'smart' charger indicates that they are dead, I put them on an old-fashioned 'dumb' charger for an hour, and they come back to life.
For one season I used a 4 AH Ballistic battery, with no problems at all, till Worntorn scared me out of it:

Small 12 volt lithium ion bateery for use with Boyer

250 gr . I doubt a drill battery is much lighter.

(Al : an alu cylinder will save you 4.5 kg, and for an ex-scientist, you use the word ' probably' a lot..) )
 
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Sorry!
As you know, I had one of those Ballistic batteries melt while under way!
The other one just died and left me stranded. Both gone in one year, then the company folded.
I suspect Shorai makes a much better battery, however they are made in China and a fair few of them have burned up bikes as well.

Glen
 
LiFePO4 is not a replacement battery for AGM or lead acid without some forethought on the circuitry.
 
Shorai battery in my 916 lasted two years, even after I kept on one of their expensive tenders, I thru with Lithium!
 
Makes no difference, your bike isn't light enough to notice, although going on previous history, it will only need to go 400yards every 20 years. A couple of Triple A's or maybe a PP9 (for the better connector) will do
 
For a race bike, if no high consumption bits like lights, Why not run without any battery and just have a larger capacitor to smooth out voltage to the EI?
 
Tornado said:
For a race bike, if no high consumption bits like lights, Why not run without any battery and just have a larger capacitor to smooth out voltage to the EI?
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You are probably presuming I have a generating circuit on my race bike.
I have wondered about using large lithoim batteries for iuse with solar panels on my home. With a motorcycle, you can just put it on the ground and get off, if fire happened duting a race. It is always a risk anyway, even without lithium batteries.

That comment about my bike not moving more than 200 yards in so long, is very cruel. I am sitting in a cage and you are poking sticks at me. My bike is just another development project. If I casn get to race it again, it will prove itself. For me, the project is incomplete, until it has done that. I am not interested in gaining an ego boost by winning races. I built my Seeley based upon what I had leaned over a ten year period. I am still amazed, it has performed so well, because I never believed in it. The 850 motor seems to be an excellent design, but by looking at it, you would never believe it.
When I was racing in the early 70s, the Kawasaki 900 was the fast bike. The bikes in the class in which I can race these days are faster. But the Seeley out-handles them in corners,by miles and is fast enough to stay with them down the straights.

When I raced regularly, my bike was 10years older than the others and was of smaller capacity. I know what it is like to have to wrok hard to keep up. I don't know if I am a better rider, but the Seeley 850 makes the task much less difficult. And there is nothing flash about it. Because of the way it handles, I do not need so much power.
 
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acotrel said:
Motorcycle lithium ion batteries all seem to be too large and heavy. The drill bastteries srem to be much lighter. I think my lead acid battery weighs about I Kg. When you replace your casst ieon cylinders with aluminium, you probably only save about that much weight. The Makita drill battery is very light.
That socket on the base of the drill, is the bit I think I need.

Premium tools for DIY enthusiasts and gardeners | Ozito.com.au

The right tool for your projects in home and garden | Electric tools with battery, powerful stationary machines and high-quality garden tools with great value for money | Discover on Ozito.com.au now!
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Click to expand...
Al, you simply haven’t researched this well at all mate.

There are very small and very light motorcyle products available.

You are not the first person to think this is a good idea !
 
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