Trispark adjustment - PIA fixed

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robs ss

robs ss

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Okay - here's one for the anally retentives out there (like me!):
Anyone notice that trying to adjust the trispark unit when the engine is at operating temp is a proper bastard?
Well, I've found it to be! There's nothing to hold onto for fine adjustment - and everything around it is hot.
So I decided to make myself a handle (special tool #786.85)
First I put 2 screws (M2.5 I think - from container of screws from dead hard-drives), with short length of plastic tube, into the threaded holes at 3 and 9 o'clock on the trispark unit. Used loctite blue to reduce risk of coming out.
Then made a "handle" from a spare plastic brush. The holes, in my case 6mm dia. to suit heads of screws, need to be 56mm apart so the handle fits over the screws.
Photos below will hopefully make up for my limited explanation.
Works a treat! Fine adjustment easy with no burned fingers!
Cheers
Rob

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36CD0228-3339-4E0E-8FA7-730899609AC7.JPG
 
robs ss said:
Okay - here's one for the anally retentives out there (like me!):
Anyone notice that trying to adjust the trispark unit when the engine is at operating temp is a proper bastard?
Well, I've found it to be! There's nothing to hold onto for fine adjustment - and everything around it is hot.
So I decided to make myself a handle (special tool #786.85)
First I put 2 screws (M2.5 I think - from container of screws from dead hard-drives), with short length of plastic tube, into the threaded holes at 3 and 9 o'clock on the trispark unit. Used loctite blue to reduce risk of coming out.
Then made a "handle" from a spare plastic brush. The holes, in my case 6mm dia. to suit heads of screws, need to be 56mm apart so the handle fits over the screws.
Photos below will hopefully make up for my limited explanation.
Works a treat! Fine adjustment easy with no burned fingers!
Cheers
Rob

View attachment 21262View attachment 21263View attachment 21264
Click to expand...
Maybe brush ya teeth at the same time ?? Give it 7000rpm
Sorry
I'll get me coat!
 
I compliment your creativity; "necessity is the mother of invention".

I am willing to, potentially, concede that setting timing on an engine at OT may offer a smidge more accuracy, assuming that you took similar pains to verify the timing scale relative to crankshaft position.

But, why set the timing with the engine at OT? I seriously doubt that the Tri-Spark cares, especially on a street bike.

I set timing less than 1 minute from cold start-up; 3200/3400 RPM, briefly applied, with an unloaded engine won't hurt it. I'll admit that I have checked the timing with the engine at OT, but I don't need anymore burns; I'll let it cool and go ride something else. I do recheck the timing frequently during run-in, but once the cam chain settles down I'll go concern myself something else.

I'd like to hear from other posters, excluding race prep, on this topic.

Thanks for raising the question.

Best.
 
RoadScholar said:
I compliment your creativity; "necessity is the mother of invention".

I am willing to, potentially, concede that setting timing on an engine at OT may offer a smidge more accuracy, assuming that you took similar pains to verify the timing scale relative to crankshaft position.

But, why set the timing with the engine at OT? I seriously doubt that the Tri-Spark cares, especially on a street bike.

I set timing less than 1 minute from cold start-up; 3200/3400 RPM, briefly applied, with an unloaded engine won't hurt it. I'll admit that I have checked the timing with the engine at OT, but I don't need anymore burns; I'll let it cool and go ride something else. I do recheck the timing frequently during run-in, but once the cam chain settles down I'll go concern myself something else.

I'd like to hear from other posters, excluding race prep, on this topic.

Thanks for raising the question.

Best.
Click to expand...
Yep - I'll give you that, but even cold that little sucker is hard to grip to make a fine adjustment.
With this set-up you don't have to back off the pillar bolts quite a much - meaning less chance of movement during tightening.
Cheers
 
At first glance I thought it was a manual advance and retard feature !

I like that Rob. Even without the temperature issue that will still help adjust it finely.

Can you show us a close up of the connector you’re using there please?
 
Fast Eddie said:
Can you show us a close up of the connector you’re using there please?
Click to expand...
Do you mean the electrical connector?
They are Wago 221 - see link below. They're great!
www.ebay.com.au

Official & Genuine WAGO 221-412 (100pcs) - 4mm² 221 COMPACT Splicing Connectors | eBay

WAGO 221-412 4mm² COMPACT Splicing Connectors for All Conductor Types. WAGO 221-412 COMPACT Splicing Lever Connectors for All Conductor Types - 0.14 - 4mm². WAGO's splicing connectors can be opened very easily and quickly.
www.ebay.com.au
 
pdl999 said:
That's a great idea but how the hell do you shine a strobe and view the timing marks, twist the throttle and stop the bastard dancing around the floor, all on your own?
Click to expand...
I agree!
For me - I go to my mate's place - he has a '75 850.
For us, using a timing light is a 2-man job - but the thingo above makes that 2-man job easier and quicker.
Hopefully someone will chime in on how one person can:
  • Hold the throttle open to 3500rpm (trispark recommendation)
  • Observe the timing light result, and - if necessary,
  • Adjust the trispark position.
 
robs ss said:
I agree!
For me - I go to my mate's place - he has a '75 850.
For us, using a timing light is a 2-man job - but the thingo above makes that 2-man job easier and quicker.
Hopefully someone will chime in on how one person can:
  • Hold the throttle open to 3500rpm (trispark recommendation)
  • Observe the timing light result, and - if necessary,
  • Adjust the trispark position.
Click to expand...
do the first two by leaning over the bike from throttle side, with mirror to see into timing marks, then adjust timing separately, then recheck. Or jam throttle at required revs first.
 
Like many I guess, solo adjustment here means incremental steps on the back plate before checking with strobe from the saddle. Takes a while but there you go.... Would NEVER run a bike on the centre stand, but that's just me?
 
EstuaryBoy said:
Would NEVER run a bike on the centre stand, but that's just me?
Click to expand...
Not being clever - but why?
It‘s the only time that I do - and then only for a few minutes.
I can’t see harm coming from that.
The only argument that I could see is stress on the rear iso?
If it’s that fragile “Huston, we have a problem!”
 
jan nelder said:
do the first two by leaning over the bike from throttle side, with mirror to see into timing marks, then adjust timing separately, then recheck. Or jam throttle at required revs first.
Click to expand...
Good solution, but misses on one key prerequisite - having a beer with your mate afterwards.
 
robs ss said:
Not being clever - but why?
It‘s the only time that I do - and then only for a few minutes.
I can’t see harm coming from that.
The only argument that I could see is stress on the rear iso?
If it’s that fragile “Huston, we have a problem!”
Click to expand...
I don't know. just seems unnecessary stress on the stand itself as well, BUT..... the Commando is the first bike (after 30 years) I've had with a centre stand, so maybe I'm just used to working without one :)
 
robs ss said:
Hopefully someone will chime in on how one person can:
  • Hold the throttle open to 3500rpm (trispark recommendation)
  • Observe the timing light result,
Click to expand...

Use a thick rubber mat under the centre stand as that stops the bike jumping around.
Anyone with average length arms should be able to operate the throttle standing/crouching on the left-hand side of the bike (perhaps not with Hi-Rider bars) and still sight the strobe.

The Tri-Spark Classic twin doesn't continue to advance with increased revs so revving beyond 3,500 RPM isn't a problem.



robs ss said:
  • and - if necessary,
  • Adjust the trispark position.
Click to expand...

I don't recall adjusting the Tri-Spark with the engine running to have been much of a problem.
 
robs ss said:
Yep - I'll give you that, but even cold that little sucker is hard to grip to make a fine adjustment.
With this set-up you don't have to back off the pillar bolts quite a much - meaning less chance of movement during tightening.
Cheers
Click to expand...

I shoot the timing, make note of whether it need advance or retard, stop the engine, make an adjustment one way or the other, restart and recheck, repeat as necessary.

I do not like the idea of losing the Tri-Spark's electrical connection to the pillar stud with a running engine...

Years ago someone asked me how many feet I needed to time a Triumph...

Best.
 
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