Throttle cable quality issues. Can anyone recommend good ones that fit ?

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johnm

johnm

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Am I the only one having issues with the quality of available cables ?

Last night I had one of the tiny nipples on a choke cable pull through. The nipple was just a cast item on the cable with no splaying of the cable wires at all. The nipple just pulled through. This is not the first time I have seen this on choke, throttle and the worst a rear brake cable.

Last year I bought two sets of throttle cables. The first was Venhil which should be good quality but the cable inner outer lengths were wrong and there was no way the slides could be fitted.

https://www.venhill.co.uk/n01-4-108.html

Worryingly these cable nipples also look an awful lot like the ones that pulled through on my bike.

A second unbranded cable fitted just fine but these are the ones where the nipple pulled off.

At least one of the two came in a proper Andover bag but after this time I cannot remember which.

I could sit on the lath and make up the six new nipples that go on a junction box cable but they are tiny and fiddly to make.

I'm removing the chokes because I definitely cannot be bothered to make 12 of them and chokes are never really needed in my climate.

Can anyone recommend a set of good quality reliable throttle cables that actually fit? The junction box type please.

Commando 850 Mk11 1974 model with UK/ European bars. Twin Amal concentric premier carbs.
 
I'm researching what cables I need for when I convert my 850 to dual amals...also with euro bars.
Have seen the nipple made up from solder melted into a drilled hole in a wood block, the splayed cable strands laid in while solder solidifies, then any excess strand ends trimmed with dremel.

There are also universal kits with different fittings to suit many common applications. Measure, cut, fit ends to suit. Venhill and Barnet have these I believe.
 
I like the RGM Venhill featherlight cables https://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/throttle-cable-for-single-carb-upto-1975-36-outer_2415.htm

On one bike, we use a twin pull amal twistgrip (to negate the clunky 2 into 1 cable junction box)
http://amalcarb.co.uk/controls-cables/twist-grips/dual-throttle-twist-grip-7-8-bars.html

Throttle cable quality issues. Can anyone recommend good ones that fit ?

On the other bike, we use one of the @madass140 carb sync/gantry thingies, which is absolutely superb.
Again, it means only one cable (Venhill) back up to the handlebars.

Throttle cable quality issues. Can anyone recommend good ones that fit ?

The choke slides are removed and capped off on both bikes - these engines warm up so quickly anyway, they are more trouble than they're worth.
 
johnm,
It happened to me last year on one of the hottest days and in the town of Port Dover on Friday the 13th bike week event. Blip-ping my throttle, then dead. Tried to re- kick start then realized the throttle was not pulling. The little nipple on the throttle inside the 1 into 2 junction box let go, leaving me to push my bike into the Beer store parking lot (that is where my bike died). Let me tell you I could have pushed my bike on the sidewalk faster as there was so many bikes going nowhere fast. I had my CAA card (Canadian Auto Association) but to wait for a Flatbed on this day in this town, I would be waiting a long long time. I had my tool kit with me and to make a long story short after taking off the tank and removing the Amal mixing chamber tops, I switched out my choke line to my throttle line and re-assembled everything with the choke system completely removed up to the air lever. Took about an hour, and fired the bike back up and rode the bike out of there. Everyone cheered as I had quite a few curious spectators sitting on the grass drinking beer when I fired the bike back to life. I had a well deserved frosty brown pop after that. ;)
There was a problem with the Doherty cables which had split sheathing covers even before you got them out of the package. I think they rectified that after many complaints.
Cheers,
Thomas
 
On my bike, I use a quick-action twist grip and two separate cables off a Yamaha TZ250 two stroke. The cables are nylon lined and Tommaselli sell a copy of the twist grip. I would never use a junction box - too much drag. If I wind the throttle open and let go, it snaps shut without hesitation. I usually race with three fingers and thumb on the throttle and one on the brake. The controls need to be light and definite, even if you only ride in traffic on public roads.
 
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acotrel said:
On my bike, I use a quick-action twist grip and two separate cables off a Yamaha TZ250 two stroke. The cables are nylon lined and Tommaselli sell a copy of the twist grip. I would never use a junction box - too much drag. If I wind the throttle open and let go, it snaps shut without hesitation. I usually race with three fingers and thumb on the throttle and one on the brake. The controls need to be light and definite, even if you only ride in traffic on public roads.
Click to expand...
Are you running two cables right from grip as a stock single would go, or do you use some type of angled guide tubes coming off the twister? Just trying to visualize how two long loops of cable from the bars look.
 
Cool fix using your choke cable to get home. If you aren't running chokes it's a good idea to carry a pair of appropriate sized hose clamps; one to hold inner cable to handgrip and the other to hold outer cable to handlebar. Port Dover has gotten too big to enjoy, hasn't it?
 
Thanks guys.

So definitely not the only one !

I think I shall have to spend a day remaking the throttle cables. But from memory I need to find the right solder for the stainless steel of the cable.

I am using a junction box and actually the action is brilliant. No drag at all.

I think the issue may only be with the throttle and choke cables these days. The rear brake cable I bought recently did have a splayed out cable because I can see a few strands outlined in the solder.
 
Tornado said:
I'm researching what cables I need for when I convert my 850 to dual amals...also with euro bars.
Have seen the nipple made up from solder melted into a drilled hole in a wood block, the splayed cable strands laid in while solder solidifies, then any excess strand ends trimmed with dremel.

There are also universal kits with different fittings to suit many common applications. Measure, cut, fit ends to suit. Venhill and Barnet have these I believe.
Click to expand...

You may have difficulty finding the correct type of solder if the cables are stainless steel.
 
I’ve had barnett make me custom cables for throttle rear brake clutch,they made a custom set of braided steel throttle cables for my kehien flat slide set up.they can make any cable you need in standard black outer sheath and nice nylon insides.I don’t remember them being outrageous in terms of pricing and they’re done perfect,my 72 750 had all braided stainless cables and it looked sharp !
 
Atlas Commando said:
Cool fix using your choke cable to get home. If you aren't running chokes it's a good idea to carry a pair of appropriate sized hose clamps; one to hold inner cable to handgrip and the other to hold outer cable to handlebar. Port Dover has gotten too big to enjoy, hasn't it?
Click to expand...
Yes Port Dover, as you say has gotten way too big. I try to ride in the day before and leave the town to the tourists for the Friday the 13th. You can see everything on Thursday and do your ride elsewhere (Far Away)on the Friday. It was only because of a friend (Turner) that I rode in with during that day. He didn't even see me breakdown and kept going. He was riding his BMW airhead as his Norton was still in the shop. But that's another story. :rolleyes:
If you are not running a choke then keep one throttle twist end cable 06-1451 and one Cable throttle carburettor end 03-3145 on your bike somewhere. Inside your handle bar tube or wrapped around in your Headlight shell. There is a quick fix for the twist grip end if it lets go. 99-1005 Solder-less nipples from Walridge Motors.
Cheers,
Thomas
 
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I got tired of cables never being the right length and having poor molded ends so I make my own now with parts from these guys: http://www.flanderscables.com/ There's nothing hard about it if you know how to solder except getting what I call the stick out right. I cut the outer to the length I want, put on the ferrules, put one end on the inner, put the inner in the outer, guess at the stick out (the free inner length) and check it. Once I'm sure it's right, I solder the final end. Since the ends are brass, they won't disintegrate like the pre-made cables. Before soldering, the ends of the inner cable should be splayed. I don't use a solder pot - just a Weller soldering gun, some flux, and silver-bearing solder. I don't use any special tools either. I've never had a cable I made fail.
 
gtiller said:
I like the RGM Venhill featherlight cables https://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/throttle-cable-for-single-carb-upto-1975-36-outer_2415.htm

On one bike, we use a twin pull amal twistgrip (to negate the clunky 2 into 1 cable junction box)
http://amalcarb.co.uk/controls-cables/twist-grips/dual-throttle-twist-grip-7-8-bars.html

View attachment 9883

On the other bike, we use one of the @madass140 carb sync/gantry thingies, which is absolutely superb.
Again, it means only one cable (Venhill) back up to the handlebars.

View attachment 9884

The choke slides are removed and capped off on both bikes - these engines warm up so quickly anyway, they are more trouble than they're worth.
Click to expand...
Can you advise me where you got the conical air filters from please??
 
...and, no doubt, ease of maintenance.
NOT!
Don't worry I have a ham can too it works well just a huge PIA to deal with.
 
I make my own cables as well , seem to be much more robust than off the shell type .... also comment on Acotrel post , I would think good light action reliable controls/cables are much more important when riding in busy unpredictable traffic than the safer environs of a track ....
 
You are probably correct. Things seem to go wrong on public roads, much quicker than on race tracks. On race tracks smooth controls help gear changes to be smoother, it is not usually about response to critical situations. I use a quick action twist grip, so I don't have to adjust the position of my hand as I open the throttle wider. It is not about whacking the throttle open quicker - just smoother operation.
 
Yup I have 1/4 twist throttle on my bikes as well , at this point just what I’m familiar with ....
 
I bought a clutch cable from Ken McIntosh in New Zealand. It is a lovely thing. - Seems to be nylon lined, unlike the horrible stuff I used to use in the old days.
 
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