Winter Projects For Your Commando?

Saber

Saber

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For us in the northern part of the world, the riding season has ended and we are likely into our winter Norton projects. Mine are

1. New seat cover.
2. Swing arm oil.
3. Install rebuilt horn.
4. Front isolastics.

Whats yours?
 
repair stripped head stud
re do spokes on rear wheel for proper offset
install and reposition better horn
 
Replace the shear dowels in my Alton starter. 🙄
Be grateful that my other Commando has a cNw starter.
Adjust the primary chain
Clean the turn signal switch
 
Hmm, off the top of my head:
Make a bracket to hold the new MOSFIT rectifier
Test fit the new used 32mm Premier carbs and K&N air filter I've bought
Wire up the parking light in the headlight to use a brighter LED bulb for daytime riding
Find out why my speedo keeps stopping work - suspect its a cable problem
Investigate why the kickstart spring seems to lack tension
Try to get the Indian PR tank to align with my seat section.
 
I’m planning on doing a bit of a tune-up for mine this winter. New brake pads are on the list, and I’ve been meaning to clean the carburetor too. I’ll probably take a good look at the wiring and make sure everything’s running smooth before the season kicks off again.
 
I got my mate-with-a-lathe to turn up 2 pairs of 2” long inlet extensions (1” shorter than last time).

One pair tapers from 39mm to 36mm along the whole length and mate to 36mm manifolds.

The other pair are straight 39mm and mate to manifolds that I’ve blended 39-36mm.

Just waiting on a selection of needles from Keihin and we’ll be back on t’ Dyno in Jan to see what’s what.

Start the New Year with some noise !!
 
Strip down the engine so I can get the cracked crank cases repaired!! Rebuild with trispark ignition and get riding again!!
 
Fast Eddie said:
Where and why did the crank cases crack ?
Click to expand...
Hi Eddie, they have cracked across the drive side case from 9 o clock at the crankseal across to the primary case bolt thread and about 2 inches past.
I've spoken to Andover and they said it is a common area to crack. I'm down to the cases and crank now ready to split, first I want to check the end float in case someone over shimmed (I don't know the bikes history on repairs). then either repair (Seager Engineering) or new cases from Andover or Molnar.
Its given me something to do this winter at least!!!
 
Dutchy961 said:
Hi Eddie, they have cracked across the drive side case from 9 o clock at the crankseal across to the primary case bolt thread and about 2 inches past.
I've spoken to Andover and they said it is a common area to crack. I'm down to the cases and crank now ready to split, first I want to check the end float in case someone over shimmed (I don't know the bikes history on repairs). then either repair (Seager Engineering) or new cases from Andover or Molnar.
Its given me something to do this winter at least!!!
Click to expand...
Interesting !

I think ‘a common area to crack’ must be a relative comment. Meaning that whilst it may well be common, I can’t see a crack like that being caused by normal classic bike use.

It could be fatigue that built up in a former life. Or it could be because something else is wrong and causing stress.

I had a Triumph TSS that split its crank cases once. It happened on a steady ride out. But prior to that the bike had been caned hard and regularly. So fatigue does build up and can lead to failure at a later (and innocent) time.
 
Fast Eddie said:
Interesting !

I think ‘a common area to crack’ must be a relative comment. Meaning that whilst it may well be common, I can’t see a crack like that being caused by normal classic bike use.

It could be fatigue that built up in a former life. Or it could be because something else is wrong and causing stress.

I had a Triumph TSS that split its crank cases once. It happened on a steady ride out. But prior to that the bike had been caned hard and regularly. So fatigue does build up and can lead to failure at a later (and innocent) time.
Click to expand...
Thats very possible, I have no idea of its past, its all matching numbers and previous owner had it 20+ years. The bills in its history file show the owner bought a crankseal etc for it, so I guess he saw the crack and thought better of it!!! An unexpected cost but it is 50 yrs old so I can forgive it!! 😊
 
Maybe a case for doing crack testing - dye penetrant etc- as a routine thing during a rebuild ?
 
Fast Eddie said:
I got my mate-with-a-lathe to turn up 2 pairs of 2” long inlet extensions (1” shorter than last time).

One pair tapers from 39mm to 36mm along the whole length and mate to 36mm manifolds.

The other pair are straight 39mm and mate to manifolds that I’ve blended 39-36mm.

Just waiting on a selection of needles from Keihin and we’ll be back on t’ Dyno in Jan to see what’s what.

Start the New Year with some noise !!
Click to expand...
Keep us posted
I'm always interested in this kind of work 👍
 
baz said:
Keep us posted
I'm always interested in this kind of work 👍
Click to expand...
Well, last time I learnt that extensions definitely make a big difference.

And, judging by how the long vs short velocity stack worked, the extensions I had were probably around an inch too long.

And, that the tapered extension performed a lot better than the parallel ones.

All of the above fiddling around only made a small (2bhp) difference to the peak HP but made crazy big differences in the 3.5-5K rpm range.

I also find it fascinating what effect seemingly small changes can make.

And it keeps me out t’ pub.
 
Dutchy961 said:
Thats very possible, I have no idea of its past, its all matching numbers and previous owner had it 20+ years. The bills in its history file show the owner bought a crankseal etc for it, so I guess he saw the crack and thought better of it!!! An unexpected cost but it is 50 yrs old so I can forgive it!! 😊
Click to expand...
This is quite common as I found out when my MK2a was still an 850. I got back from a ride only to notice an oil drip from around the primary to crank case joint. As I was running a dry belt drive I knew it could only be one thing, & unfortunately was right, as the crank case had a hairline crack 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock.
At the time I didn't have an AC Tig set, so sent the part to Norman White for welding. He said it was a common problem on hard ridden bikes, & didn't seem to think it would last long before it went again. As I felt he may be right I turned up a 1/4" thick 6082 ally strengthening plate to fit to the case. I then modified the primary inner case to suit. The engine is in my '68 Commando at present & seems fine 2,000 miles later.
All that said I think a new set of cases is by far the best solution.
 
At the start of COVID I was working on my 850 Rider. I repaired/painted all frame bare spots in situ, installed a 520 X-Ring chain, rebuilt the front end, new carbs, new tires, new horn, Tri-Spark (had RITA) and started rewiring. Then people started coming out of the woodwork with their bikes to have various things done. At one point I had two frame changes and two recommissions going on at once. It never slowed down. I recently finished two more recommissions and got a Trident and Bonneville ready for sale. Then my health problems intensified.

I have two more customer bikes and one engine to finish. Then, assuming me heart allows it, I hope to finish my rider this winter, but every day I wake up planning to go to the shop and get something done - hasn't happened since Dec 2nd - hopefully soon.
 
Some work for the '70:
Lace rear cush drive wheel to WM3 18" Sun Rim
Install PR front Fairing
Rebuild and prep forks for disk conversion
 

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