Why noise from my right fork?

marshg246 said:
Try this experiment.
1) Loosen the axel nut
2) Loosen the pinch bolt
3) Bounce the front end a few times
4) Tighten the axel nut
5) Bounce the front end a few times
6) Tighten the pinch bolt.

See if the problem is gone or has changed.

It may just be a thing you didn't notice before as they do go up against a "stop". It is possible that your front end was cocked (wrong) before and is now right.
Click to expand...
Greg maybe forgot his tip of using a glass plate to make sure tubes are parallel. I think this is a good recommendation as many of the bikes I have worked on were not even close.
Mike
 
YING said:
Greg maybe forgot his tip of using a glass plate to make sure tubes are parallel. I think this is a good recommendation as many of the bikes I have worked on were not even close.
Mike
Click to expand...
I didn't forget, that's what I would do but I didn't want to over complicate since he said it was right, he changed tires, and it was wrong. If it was right before, the triple tree is not involved - only the sliders - hence the experiment. Of course, we're off on a tangent and experiment not/won't be done :confused:
 
Hi Steve A, Not showing off, Just being realistic , We are living and active much longer than of yore, I fully intend to get past 100 and think that riding up to 90 is possible and a good target , The limiting factor is most likely to be mental deteriation.
 
When my bike came back from a "pro" shop after engine r&r, frame work and new steering head bearings, it gave a metallic clunk over most road bumps.
Discovered the damper rod was not threaded into top fork cap and thus was bashing against it on compression...and no damping effect.

Unsure it they just unwound on there own or the shop had not threaded them in sufficiently or at all.
 
DennisMo said:
I just tried Greg's suggestion and it made no difference.
Dennis
Click to expand...
OK, then I would say that the sliders were cocked before and now they are right. This of course assumes that the damper rods are connected and that you have oil but you said it wasn't doing it, did nothing but changed the tire, and now is so there's no reason for it to be any of those. In other words, sounding like normal operation to me.
 
DennisMo said:
It happens when I am riding which is how I noticed it. It did not happen before
What were the fender stays hitting??
Dennis
Click to expand...
My 74 850 does this. I just added the CNW lower front fender support with no change. On rough roads or over a pronounced expansion joint it makes a clunk. It sounds like a fender rattling but I can't make it do it in the garage.
 
My 75mk3 does it if I pump the front in the garage. Happy with the forks when I ride it.
 
Tornado said:
When my bike came back from a "pro" shop after engine r&r, frame work and new steering head bearings, it gave a metallic clunk over most road bumps.
Discovered the damper rod was not threaded into top fork cap and thus was bashing against it on compression...and no damping effect.

Unsure it they just unwound on there own or the shop had not threaded them in sufficiently or at all.
Click to expand...

Had the exact same thing happen on the LH fork with the same symptoms on my old Matchless. Could have unscrewed I guess but reckon they were not fitted correctly by whoever stripped them previously.
 
DennisMo said:
I hear it when I ride and go over bumps....
Dennis
Click to expand...
When on the centerstand, does the rear tire come well off the ground, front on ground? If rear still on ground with front, this was my scenario with the damper rod (rods) not connected to top caps. Reconnected and the rear cleared ground well on CS again.
 
When ever I change the wheel and it is re-installed to the front fork assembly, I leave the axle to float while tightening up the axle nut to spec. I then get on the bike with the centre stand down and pound the front end like I'm on a Pogo stick a number of times to get the sliders to naturalize and then, I will tighten the pinch bolt at the lower left hand leg assembly/slider.
If you do the pinch bolt first then it pulls the one slider towards the other via the axle nut. Not good!
 
CanukNortonNut said:
When ever I change the wheel and it is re-installed to the front fork assembly, I leave the axle to float while tightening up the axle nut to spec. I then get on the bike with the centre stand down and pound the front end like I'm on a Pogo stick a number of times to get the sliders to naturalize and then, I will tighten the pinch bolt at the lower left hand leg assembly/slider.
If you do the pinch bolt first then it pulls the one slider towards the other via the axle nut. Not good!
Click to expand...
Never had this clunk issue . I put in more oil per leg . Like 160 or even 170 c.c. of 20 W. fork oil per leg . Try that ?
 
Here is a good read for our OP Dennis.

What oil in the forks will produce a smooth ride ?

Some years ago I made these cross sectional sketches of the fork. Fully compressed on the left, fully extended in the middle, fully extended with damper cap removed on the right. These are of course, the best I've seen of the roadholder! I have not tried to do anything to the compression...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
I had a clunk while riding and tried to figure it out as you are. Don't ask me how or why but when I removed the right side factory mirror it went away.
 

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