Wheel rim replacement

As I've mentioned in other posts, I want to replace both wheel rims on my 1973 Hi-Rider I'm changing to roadster trim. Looks like both rims had sat on/in the dirt and eventually had sunk somewhat and caused the expected corrosion/rust. Upon researching replacement choices, it looks like rims are available in chrome steel, stainless steel, and alloy which I assume means aluminum. Spokes in stainless and galvanized looks to be the choices. CWC seems to be the main source with a few others. Would other members give thier recommendations for the preferred replacement choice. I assume the originals were chrome steel, or at least that's what my originals seems to be. I'm not concerned if the replacements are as original, I just want to have some nicer rims. What are some of the pros and cons of the different rim materials. I did read where it is recommended to use lube on all contact points of the spokes to hub, nipples to spoke threads, and even nipple to rim contact points. A small bottle of lube is included with some rim/spokes/nipples packages. In the rim replacement fitment listing they also list full width hubs. My bike has both front and rear drum brakes, so are mine considered full width hubs. Also, am I correct that my bike would take the WM2 size designation rim? I do intend to lace the wheels to the hubs myself. Although this would be the first time I've done this, I'm confident that having done condiderable research, watching videos and if I take my time I'll be able to accomplish this. Lotta questions, I know, but I'd appreciate and help and input on my rim replacement issue.

Oh, boy! An oil thread.

A bit of research here might show that WM3 size is more appropriate for modern tires, and if you intend to ride your bike modern tires are hands down nicer handling than the OEM. Then there are the folks who are proponents of 18" rear wheels for a tire selection which includes tires which
last a lot longer. IMHO the rim choices are either chrome or alloy. If chrome, then the same profile as original. If alloy, I think the high shouldered style are stunning but require more maintenanceover the long run (polishing). Of course SS spokes and nipples. Another vendor to consider is Buchanans. Their website will provide most of the information you need. https://www.buchananspokes.com/categories/rims.asp. CWC is very good as well.
I'm sure your inquiry will bring forward a lot of opinions. Take your time. You will only be doing this once.

CWC has some odd idea's of what is orginal, they make changes to suit themselves ie so they are easier to make rather than original, their cheapest chrome rims also rust quickly. I avoid them, as you have Buchanans there is no need for you to consider CWC. I use Stainless rims which are maintenance free.

CWC has three qualities of chrome rims. Further to Kommando's comment, below is their description of their cheapest chrome rim. As you can see, the rim is drilled after it is chromed, which means there is strong potential for rust to start at every hole.

"Our new Standard Chrome rim is an entry level chrome aimed at the cost conscious buyer who still demands a high level of quality. The Tri-Nickel rim is given 3 layers of nickel before finally being chrome plated for extra depth of both quality and endurance. These rims arrive to us pre-chromed and we then drill them to suit your requirements."

Jewelry.

Spend all you want to make yourself happy.

I have cast aluminum rims that I adapted from a yamaha. It's not cheap, nor simple to do, so I'm not going to go into my spiel on them.... But the thing about rims is that once you need to get new tires, it is also the time to consider changing rims because they need to be compatible. Also If you have an early bike like I do, they don't have a cush drive hub like later bikes do, so you might look to get the whole system upgraded.

Then there's the idea of lightening the unsprung weight of the wheels for better handling and suspension performance, so aluminum rims, aftermarket calipers, drilled, lightened rotors are all things to consider.....

As you can see, the rabbit hole of tires and rims is pretty deep.... Stock works, exotic works, ya gotta figure out what you want...

I used stainless steel rims, from feked.com (in the UK). Price was reasonable, shipping was fairly quick. Laced them up with Buchanan stainless spokes.

I went to Hagon for my front rim, as they offer the correct hole/dimple pattern. Probably 3 years ago. Went together without fuss and still look like new.

lazyeye6 said:

Of course SS spokes and nipples.

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I don't recommend joining SS spokes and SS nipples because of the galling effect. Coating of threads will not work well due to the environment. The best remedy is use of different alloy grades for spokes and nipples, e.g. , SS spokes and nickel-plated steel nipples.

lazyeye6 said:

CWC is very good as well.

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Disputed. I recommend Devon Rim Company. They may need some pursuation for one-offs, but are reliable suppliers for stock-like rims and accessories.

- Knut

quawk said:

Looks like both rims had sat on/in the dirt and eventually had sunk somewhat and caused the expected corrosion/rust. Upon researching replacement choices, it looks like rims are available in chrome steel, stainless steel, and alloy which I assume means aluminum.

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Yes. Another option worth considering is to have your original rims de-plated, blasted, and re-plated. If they are still solid, the outcome will be better than any third-party offering. Provided you are happy with the rim width, of course. Look at tire manufactureres recommendations for rim widths. WM2x19 is a rather narrow rim by today's standard. If you choose replacing them, I'd go for WM3 f/r as a minimum.

quawk said:

I did read where it is recommended to use lube on all contact points of the spokes to hub, nipples to spoke threads, and even nipple to rim contact points. A small bottle of lube is included with some rim/spokes/nipples packages.

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Never heard of that before. Lube may be useful for nipple to spoke threads.

quawk said:

In the rim replacement fitment listing they also list full width hubs. My bike has both front and rear drum brakes, so are mine considered full width hubs.

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Yes

quawk said:

Also, am I correct that my bike would take the WM2 size designation rim?

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WM2x19 is standard, f/r. See note above.

quawk said:

I do intend to lace the wheels to the hubs myself. Although this would be the first time I've done this, I'm confident that having done condiderable research, watching videos and if I take my time I'll be able to accomplish this. Lotta questions, I know, but I'd appreciate and help and input on my rim replacement issue.

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Well, good luck to you. Do you have a truing stand? Unless you plan on building several wheels in the foreseeable future, I suggest you do the initial lacing and leave truing to a professional.

- Knut

Quawk,
Seeing that you are located somewhere in the US, I would definitely look into Buchanans for what you are looking for. They can set you up with everything that you need as they have been in business for over 50 years and have an excellent reputation and know Nortons.
Mike

I sent my hubs to Don Pender , he built me a set of shouldered alloy rims in original sizes … beautiful wheels , I don’t think any harder to keep clean than chrome …

I concur with YING. Buchanan Spoke & Rim has never failed to deliver what I need.
I laced up their aluminum shouldered rims with stainless spokes on my 850.
They made custom spokes (Stainless Steel) to replace the straight pull corroded spokes on the P11.

From Donald Pender.

I put a set of Akront alloy rims on my Norton (1974 Commando) back in 1982 and they still look as good as the day they were put together and the best part only cost $90 each at the time and $40 for new spokes, they are maintenance free and have always stayed clean with normal bike cleaning, they don't rust out and the bike handles a lot better than with steel rims, I brought my Norton new and the chrome on the back wheel was lifting less than 12 months old and was replace on warranty and the front one did the same about 6 months later and the warranty had run out.
My first job after leaving school was working at a chrome shop and looked like the rims hadn't been prepared properly before chroming, all my bikes have alloy rims and they look better than the steel rims in my opinion.

Ashley

Stephen Hill said:

CWC has three qualities of chrome rims. Further to Kommando's comment, below is their description of their cheapest chrome rim. As you can see, the rim is drilled after it is chromed, which means there is strong potential for rust to start at every hole.

"Our new Standard Chrome rim is an entry level chrome aimed at the cost conscious buyer who still demands a high level of quality. The Tri-Nickel rim is given 3 layers of nickel before finally being chrome plated for extra depth of both quality and endurance. These rims arrive to us pre-chromed and we then drill them to suit your requirements."

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I have looked at CWC's website and their available rims, but only saw two different chrome steel rims available. I did read their description of their Standard Chrome rim and understand, as you point out, the potential for rust would be greater being drilled after plating. There is, of course, a reason they are cheaper.

ashman said:

I put a set of Akront alloy rims on my Norton (1974 Commando) back in 1982 and they still look as good as the day they were put together and the best part only cost $90 each at the time and $40 for new spokes,

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Unfortunately, those are 40+ years ago prices.

I appreciate all the responses, and info. As expected there are many different viewpoints and opinions on what/which to use. Although it's nice to have a good number of vendors to choose from, it also makes it more confusing, especially for a first timer, to make a selection.

mdt-son said:

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Well, good luck to you. Do you have a truing stand? Unless you plan on building several wheels in the foreseeable future, I suggest you do the initial lacing and leave truing to a professional.

- Knut

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Knut, I didn't find it too difficult. The Commando front was the first one I attempted. Just take it slow, make sure the correct hub holes are used for the correct rim holes, build it loose and get it true, with the right offset, before the nipples are anywhere near tight.

I don't have a truing stand. I laced the wheel on a flat surface, with the rim resting on 2 pieces of wood, to set an initial offset. With all the spokes in, I used an axle in the soft jaws of my bench vice, with a ruler flat on the work bench. I used the ruler to check and true side to side and up and down trueness.

For me, the key was getting it true and maintaining the offset while the nipples were still not tight, with only small tightening turns each time. Then I did tiny turns of the nipples each rotation, constantly checking trueness / offset. Took me a couple of hours, maybe more, but the radio was on and it was a pleasant afternoon. I've replaced a Honda rear hub and drum since with the same approach.

I'm patient-ish, no mechanic though. If I can do it, most people should be able to, if you want to, of course!