What order do you do for a rebuild?

When I finally get around to commencing the ground up rebuild I was wondering what order you do things?

Shall I start with a bare frame sat on the carpet, with its swingarm and shocks attached, and then add the fully rebuilt engine and its plates. Then oil tank, rear mudguard, steering yokes, forks - and then……… oh bugger! How do I fit the wheels as it’s now a heavy lump?

Hm, it’s still a heavy lump of an engine to attempt to lift in unaided, shall I put the engine on its side and wriggle the frame over it, and then lift it back upright?

Or,

Create a rolling chassis, steering, forks, rear mudguard and wheels. Hold it upright on the hydraulic ramp, and then really struggle to lift the engine and its plates in? I don’t have a suitable beam or A frame to help me with the load.

Thankfully I have a few months more yet to deliberate how to go about it as I’m about to go on holiday (vacation) for a few months on my grand tour of the Baltic. And so I’d like to hear of your experiences and pitfalls.

This is a Slimline frame and a 650 Preunit (hopefully a 750) engine. I know how to fit the gearbox easily when the engine is in place.

I use a small 1-ton chain hoist and straps. I put the engine on a furniture dolly and level it with blocks of wood and scrap carpet underneath.

I have done this with a rolling chassis or bare frame. If bare frame, which is my preference, I put it upright and fully suspended after installing the engine to add the running gear. It is much easier to be able to spin it around and bring to any level you like vs a lift. I'm not too fond of hydraulic ramps, small or large. I've done this on about a dozen bikes, mostly larger engines than the Norton's, and wouldn't do it any other way. You have pinpoint control over it and won't scrape up the freshly painted frame.

The cost here in the US is well under $100 for the hoist, straps and dolly.

You can also make an engine stand from scrap plywood.

I always build the rolling chassis before installing the engine in it. I have only ever built UNIT engined Tritons.

I USUALLY (not always) am building up the engine at the same time.

IN THE CASE OF THE FEATHERBED/Triton, I install the completely built engine, because there is ample headspace.

I’m with Baz, cos the engine is upright and you have the separate rocker boxes, and there is plenty of space to work, I install the bottom end only, then built the top end in situ.

OK, just a couple more info for you to cast your eyes over. It does not have a centrestand, prop stand only. The engine will return to me fully rebuilt, ready to run apart from the carbs which I’ve overhauled. I recall removing it as a complete lump, so there’s room aplenty.

I’m sort of leaning towards laying the engine on its side and laying the frame over it. This is how I rebuilt a Suxuki 1100 Katana a couple of years ago.

Flatspot said:

OK, just a couple more info for you to cast your eyes over. It does not have a centrestand, prop stand only. The engine will return to me fully rebuilt, ready to run apart from the carbs which I’ve overhauled. I recall removing it as a complete lump, so there’s room aplenty.

I’m sort of leaning towards laying the engine on its side and laying the frame over it. This is how I rebuilt a Suxuki 1100 Katana a couple of years ago.

View attachment 116496

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On a big Japanese 4 with a full cradle frame and a (complete engine) I lay the engine on its side and drop the frame over it
But a pre unit triumph I'd lift in upright
But as said I'd always install just the bottom end given the choice

Hi Flatspot
Same as Baz. All my triples I lay the engine on a cushion on a box & drop the frame over. Norths you have to have the rockerboxes/ head off. But pre unit Triumphs into featherbeds you can manage on its wheels, just plenty of pipe lagging foam tubing & bits of carpet to protect the frame. That might change as my lifting strength is disappearing fast lol.

Fast Eddie said:

I’m with Baz, cos the engine is upright and you have the separate rocker boxes, and there is plenty of space to work, I install the bottom end only, then built the top end in situ.

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That is what I do, unless I have to make engine plates - then I sit the assembled motor and gearbox in the bare frame, position them and make the plates.

If I have a complete rolling chassis with engine plates, I just stand it up and put all the bits into it. - Nothing clever.

Thanks all. Plenty there for me to consider and worry about.

Strength wise I’m fading fast, going downhill after my heart attack and surgery over 2 years ago. I was at the GP surgery last week and he was studying his book on dosages for medication and said he didn’t know when ‘adult’ became ‘elderly’ with regards to what to prescribe. I told him I became elderly last week

Flatspot said:

Thanks all. Plenty there for me to consider and worry about.

Strength wise I’m fading fast, going downhill after my heart attack and surgery over 2 years ago. I was at the GP surgery last week and he was studying his book on dosages for medication and said he didn’t know when ‘adult’ became ‘elderly’ with regards to what to prescribe. I told him I became elderly last week

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Take it easy
No need to rush any of this stuff
And get help instead of pushing through by yourself

In that case, IF your rear plates have slotted bottom holes for the engine:

Put the engine in with the front plates attached.

Locate the bolts in the front plates / frame.

Put the rear plates onto the engine, and then locate to the frame.

Then put the gearbox in.

IF the lower holes are not slotted, put the engine in with the rear plates on, locate the bolts, and then add the front plates.

IMO it would be easiest to build the rolling chassis first.

And get help on engine fitting day!

The plates that came out were slotted at the lowermost position, and had clearly been chattering away for some while.

Then new plates are not slotted, and I have found out by trial and error which stud needs to go in which way to ensure it all goes together. It’s very useful having a spare set of preunit TR6 cases to play with, and a spare empty gearbox shell.

This is also how I’ve found that fitting a centrestand has a few ‘obstacles’ in the way, and I’ll just go for a prop stand, and a front wheel stand inside the garage.