What is the best, strongest battery to fit a MKIIA battery box with the stock plastic air box spinning a Alton?

I have an antigravity lithium on my Aston Martin, and it will turn itself off if it is getting dangerously low. You get a remote with it that will switch it back on again, perfect for long stays at an airport.

Lithium generally have massively higher CCA than lead acid (including AGM), so a much lower capacity battery can start an engine easily, but then there isn't as much reserve for running with lights on at low engine speed. But they are very small and superlight batteries, but expensive, the one in my car was almost £1000.

As long as you can avoid thermal runaway, the Li batteries are fine.
Thermal runaway occurs when the batteries are punctured (crash), or if there is a dead short ( crash or wiring problem) or sometimes during charging, especially if overcharged for some reason. Something has to be faulty to cause the batteries to ignite. They generally don't just ignite on their own. When they do go off, it is a very hot fire and it is very difficult to put out.

You might read that LiPo4 type Lithium batteries do not do this, however there is lots of proof that they do. I had a few photos of Shorai fires which I have posted here.
I've got quite a few more now, but no fear, I won't post them.

Li batteries of all types were the number one cause of fire fatalities in Vancouver last year.

I like the Lithium batteries for small tools like the chainsaw, grass trimmer, polesaw etc. They give full power right up to the shut down point. I store and charge them in the pump house. If it burns, no big loss.

Glen

worntorn said:

... I like the Lithium batteries for small tools like the chainsaw, grass trimmer, polesaw etc. They give full power right up to the shut down point. ...

Glen

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In modern high quality powertools there is a battery management system in place that won't allow it to deplete the battery to the point where it is ruined. When lithium batteries were first introduced for power tools, there was no battery management, typically there would be a label that told the user not to run the battery too low, and lots of people would ignore it then had to buy very expensive batteries to replace the almost new ones they had just ruined.

I'd suggest that a Norton is like those early power tools, you can easily deplete a battery and thereby destroy it, AntiGravity batteries have a built in BMS that won't allow the battery to get too low, maybe others do too, for me its an essential.

All battery types have potential issues and no type is a perfect solution.
In the beginning - a kick-start Commando with OEM points ignition could be started with nothing more than a capacitor (battery eliminator). Add an early Boyer and you had to have a battery with voltage above 12v or forget it. The Boyer Mk 4 ameliorated that issue and will allow starting with less voltage. Now we get to electric starting added to the Commando Mk3 and the ball game changes yet again because in addition to a minimum threshold voltage, we have a concern for cranking amps. Adding aftermarket e-start systems pulls our focus to both cranking amps and amp hours - especially when "accessories" like heated vests, GPS, cellphone charging, stereos, and what have you are added to the equation. It is time to balance the wish for these "comforts" with the need of a battery in a healthy balanced charging system. We even need to reevaluate the charging system at this point, since a 3-phase system will help keep the bigger battery a lot happier in low-speed, stop-and-go situations.
Almost all of this adds weight and complexity to a machine noted initially for the lack of it. One way to "add lightness" to any Commando while gaining the benefits of ample cranking amps is to use an LI battery. It helps keep the weight of an e-start bike under control and moves the avoirdupois of a stripped-down kick-start bike closer to 400 pounds or less. LI IS a better mouse trap - as time will tell! Just sayin'.