What’s it worth?

Hi all! First time poster here looking to get into a late ‘60s-early ‘70s classic. Love the cafe racer vibes, have narrowed down to a Norton or T120. Long time motorcycle rider looking to get into the classics (they take up less room than cars ).

I’m not afraid to do most of my own Mx and have done a fair amount of research. I came across this bike and was hoping for some expert advice (not currently listed on BaT but it is this bike):


What is it worth (didn’t sell for $5,500). Any red flags? Single carb set up, unknown if the main bearings have been replaced. Brakes and carb adjusted in 2023, no service history. Looks pretty descent otherwise.

Thanks!

Shazam said:

Hi all! First time poster here looking to get into a late ‘60s-early ‘70s classic. Love the cafe racer vibes, have narrowed down to a Norton or T120. Long time motorcycle rider looking to get into the classics (they take up less room than cars ).

I’m not afraid to do most of my own Mx and have done a fair amount of research. I came across this bike and was hoping for some expert advice (not currently listed on BaT but it is this bike):

1971 Norton Commando 750 Roadster

Bid for the chance to own a 1971 Norton Commando 750 Roadster at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #152,999.

bringatrailer.com

What is it worth (didn’t sell for $5,500). Any red flags? Single carb set up, unknown if the main bearings have been replaced. Brakes and carb adjusted in 2023, no service history. Looks pretty descent otherwise.

Thanks!

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Decent looking rider. If the engine has never been opened, it may soon need work. The rear frame loop is bent downward (fixable). To some, the single Mikuni is an enhancement but to purists it's not. The seat looks new but is incorrect and has gold lettering on the back - should be silver. It appears to have a fiberglass tank - if so, needs the tank replaced. I'm not a fan of the bolt up rear hub and I bet that the ISOs are original. Since I didn't see anything about electrical improvements I suspect it's original and over 50 years old.

To me, it would max out at $5000 and I would try to get it for $4500. So, IMHO, they are dreaming with a reserve higher than $5500!

A very nice example and I think it's worth the price. Yes, fiberglass tanks all need to be replaced unless you have access to alcohol free fuel. I don't see anything hacked on this bike. Pluses are later kickstart lever, tucked in header pipes, looks like later side stand which would have required later mount welded into frame to mount. Appears cylinder head may have been shaved to raise compression to Combat spec (fins between head and cylinder closer than usual).
Yeah, seat isn't vintage '71, cylinders are supposed to be silver, but numbers match and a single Mikuni, but nobody said it was concours, just asking if it's worth the price. I think so. Improving the breed started in 1971 and if you wanted all the upgrades with right side shift, shop for a '74 850.

Deckard said:

A very nice example and I think it's worth the price. Yes, fiberglass tanks all need to be replaced unless you have access to alcohol free fuel. I don't see anything hacked on this bike. Pluses are later kickstart lever, tucked in header pipes, looks like later side stand which would have required later mount welded into frame to mount. Appears cylinder head may have been shaved to raise compression to Combat spec (fins between head and cylinder closer than usual).
Yeah, seat isn't vintage '71, cylinders are supposed to be silver, but numbers match and a single Mikuni, but nobody said it was concours, just asking if it's worth the price. I think so. Improving the breed started in 1971 and if you wanted all the upgrades with right side shift, shop for a '74 850.

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You miss 100% of the shots you don't take.
I ran a single Mikuni for a couple of years to ease the difficulty of keeping the stock Amals sync'd. If you haven't already been introduced to the issue before now, they tend to wear pretty heavily where the slides run in the bodies, leading to an inconsistent idle. The single carb with the 1-into-2 manifold definitely cuts into the performance but with the side benefits of an easier to maintain idle and a slight increase in fuel mileage. Since converting to an electronic ignition with an idle-stabilization circuit, the idle is much more stable, allowing me to go back to my old Amals. Not only does it now run like it used to, but they just look right. As @Deckard noted, the '73-'74 has some nice upgrades, of which one of the betters is a disc front brake. While I think the drum brake looks a bit sexier, the disc definitely can be made to be much more effective as long as you're willing to upgrade the master cylinder. I say these things with the anticipation that you'll be riding the bike on a regular basis, rather than having it merely as a trailer queen.

The bike sounds OK and looks OK. As others have said, the 71 has a drum front brake, so not as good as later models which have a disc.

Possible fiberglass fuel tank. Fiberglass is not OK for a fuel tank.

Most people eventually change out the original gearbox layshaft bearing because the ball cage can break up on it. Not expensive to do parts wise, nor hard to do, but time consuming.

Also you might have the original timing side crankshaft ball bearing and drive side roller bearing. These are both normally changed out for superblend bearings which should be done at some point...
I have a 70 model myself. When I did my first rebuild, at about 10,000 miles, I changed to superblend bearings. The originals were still good, so the change was a preventative precaution, so while not an emergency, it's considered an important thing to do at some point

As a person who owns a commando and wishes his own commando to have some value in spite of the fact I'm never going to sell mine, $5,000. for that bike seems like an OK price. If you see what some people ask for non-running bikes, bikes without titles, and basket cases, that bike's price looks even better...

that's my $.02

A bit curious that it didn't sell at $5,500.

I think we are seeing the prices trend lower, although this bike is only JUST worth $5,500 in my opinion.

I have what appears to be an original fibreglass tank on my 72 Roadster which is not giving any problems. Had the bike for 15 years. Maybe fuels are different in USA to Australia? Maybe it's had a sealer treatment before I got it.

Satan's Aardvark said:

I have what appears to be an original fibreglass tank on my 72 Roadster which is not giving any problems. Had the bike for 15 years. Maybe fuels are different in USA to Australia? Maybe it's had a sealer treatment before I got it.

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I understand from my Ducati riding friends in Oz that there's no ethanol in your fuel, unlike the UK and USA.

Thank you all so much for your insight! I’m not in a huge rush and would rather have as much info as possible before biting off more than I can chew. I’ll keep you all updated!

Any chance you can specify where the frame loop is bent? You have a much better eye than me. I didn’t catch it. If the frame needs works that would be the biggest detractor for me likely. I’m not afraid to wrench but would like a bike that rides straight and I wouldn’t want to have to take it down to the frame to get it right.

marshg246 said:

Decent looking rider. If the engine has never been opened, it may soon need work. The rear frame loop is bent downward (fixable). To some, the single Mikuni is an enhancement but to purists it's not. The seat looks new but is incorrect and has gold lettering on the back - should be silver. It appears to have a fiberglass tank - if so, needs the tank replaced. I'm not a fan of the bolt up rear hub and I bet that the ISOs are original. Since I didn't see anything about electrical improvements I suspect it's original and over 50 years old.

To me, it would max out at $5000 and I would try to get it for $4500. So, IMHO, they are dreaming with a reserve higher than $5500!

Click to expand...

Shazam said:

Any chance you can specify where the frame loop is bent? You have a much better eye than me. I didn’t catch it. If the frame needs works that would be the biggest detractor for me likely. I’m not afraid to wrench but would like a bike that rides straight and I wouldn’t want to have to take it down to the frame to get it right.

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The easiest way to tell if by looking at the taillight. The face of the lens should be perpendicular to the ground, but it is leaning downward. The fender also shows that it's not correct. I've seen much worse. They bend where they connect to the other tubes and the much later bikes have a reinforcement welded there. The bend in this bike is minor so pretty easy to straighten.

marshg246 said:

The easiest way to tell if by looking at the taillight. The face of the lens should be perpendicular to the ground, but it is leaning downward. The fender also shows that it's not correct. I've seen much worse. They bend where they connect to the other tubes and the much later bikes have a reinforcement welded there. The bend in this bike is minor so pretty easy to straighten.

Andover Norton - FRAME REAR SUSPENSION MOUNT PLATE (Mk2) - 06.4282

FRAME REAR SUSPENSION MOUNT PLATE (Mk2)

andover-norton.co.uk

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Ah, gotcha. That makes sense, good eye!

scroll down - norton recently completed (can select hi-low)

t120

Can you just give us the amounts they sold for?

I think this bike was on Facebook Marketplace. They were asking 5500 then, should be ready to deal