whac-a-mole problems and alton e-start (alternator rotor) timing marks.

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How about a spacer and rotor nut pretoquing the engine sprocket on the crank taper to fully seat it, then installing the alton rotor.
 
BERT said:
How about a spacer and rotor nut pretoquing the engine sprocket on the crank taper to fully seat it, then installing the alton rotor.
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that's an idea, but.... part of the installation procedure is to align both the engine sprocket and the clutch sprocket. as long as the two sprockets remain aligned then pre-torqueing might be an option. i don't remember how i installed my engine sprocket, but do remember running an alignment check, now whether there was sufficient clamping of the sprag clutch/rotor between the spacer and rotor nut is the big unknown. if there is insufficient clamping force, then the starter's rotational force may be applied to the woodruff key. i have to assume my engine sprocket was fully seated, and i had sufficient torque on the nut. someone mentioned using a belleville lock washer, and i'm looking at going that route. that would address the nut side of the rotor, but still leaves the clamping force of the sprocket, spacer, and the sprag clutch in question. bottom line - i'm thinking that the design is OK in a perfect world, but may have some short comings in the real world. sounds like everything stems around the clamping force of the stacked components and the torque value of the rotor nut. i'm beginning to think there's little room for error.
 
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Yves devised what I think is a great solution. Read all about it in his thread:

Alton starter my solution for broken woodruff key (2017)​

 
I'm not clever enough to provide the direct link, but if you cut and paste

Alton starter my solution for broken woodruff key (2017)​

into the search function it'll pop straight up.
 
www.accessnorton.com

Alton starter my solution for broken woodruff key (2017)

Broken woodruff key is a problem with alton starters because the sprag weel is only sandwiched and the power come on the key, and the key is not made to hold the power and will brake after a while. The solution is to make a connection between sprag weel and the triplex sproket. Here is wat I...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
joe czech said:
SUPER!!! one additional question - i'm assuming the keyway for the rotor aligns with TDC on the crank - correct?
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No, but close.
whac-a-mole problems and alton e-start (alternator rotor) timing marks.
 
joe czech said:
SUPER!!! one additional question - i'm assuming the keyway for the rotor aligns with TDC on the crank - correct?
Click to expand...

The Commando rotor keyway is on the opposite side of the standard rotor to the normal timing mark so the Alton timing mark would have to be the same in order to use the timing aperture/scale.
 
update - waiting on parts. in the mean time, i'm going to incorporate yves norton seeley's locking spacer design into the norton. if the woodruff key failure happens a second time, it may screw up the crank enough that i'll have to pull the engine. since retirement and moving to florida, one of my best friends, and go-to machinist, is back in ohio, so most of this will be done my mail. this may take a while. with the norton being down, and the BSA's in pieces all over the garage, i won't be doing much riding, short term. gawd, i think i need a third bike - ;) ;)
 
Today I did a second re tork of the CNW E start rotor nut ,at 80 miles , as It turned some when I put the tork wrench on it, about 1/2 a flat or 1/12 turn. So I removed the rotor and that let me Dremel wire wheel the crank thread and cleaned up the nut as well. The old blue Locktight made the nut turn on hard when I checked out the way it threaded on before I cleaned everything up ,

Then with new blue on the threads It tighten up approx 1 flat or 1/6 of a turn from the witness mark. So after the first and second re torks it makes a total of 2 flats or 1/3 of a turn. And all of my surfaces are flat and true. It should be good to go now! CHR
 
need your input on my brain fart. i found belleville washers that MIGHT provide a fix. the washers compress to .055" (.755 ID, 1.18" OD. i'm thinking on installing one on each side if the alton spacer. the washers are serrated on both sides, so they should provide some bite into the engine sprocket and the sprag clutch assembly. i will have to machine .055 on both sides of the spacer to compensate for the washers. i could also install a belleville washer under the sprag clutch assembly nut for a little extra bite. comments....
 
The original OEM rotor lock washer is serrated . I believe the belville type is a cupped washer similar to a diaphram spring. If you counting on clamping load, I would thing clean , flat, true and dry surfaces would be OK and retorking a few times until things don't change . I have not heard many problems with the Altron, but I have never installed one and the CNW is a totally different set up. But , There must be others to ask about problems they have had with the clamping loads , and rotor key problems , if they don't re engineer their Altron and pin it so it can't spin .
 
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