Wet sumping commando

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nomadwarmachine said:
Also looking for a source for the Motormite breather. Did not see it on CNW. Any leads appreciated!
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I found mine at Advance/Discount Auto Parts. There's that section with all the little Motormite/Dorman parts on 'HELP!' cards, part number 80190. About $6.00

Wet sumping commando
 
nomadwarmachine said:
How do people feel about the "anti wet sump" valve sold by Colorado Norton Works? Does anybody have one installed?

http://www.coloradonortonworks.com/catalog/engine.asp

Also looking for a source for the Motormite breather. Did not see it on CNW. Any leads appreciated!
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hi i tried the motormite breather on my 72 combat because the price was right didnt seem to stop leaks!
called matt at cnc he said installing his valve without spliting cases i would see 90% improvement
i have a huge leak on the back of the case below cylinders among others
he was right anything below 5500 rpm no leaks bitchin!
leaks a little when i really get on it 5500 and up but nothing like before
at the same time got a anti wet sump valve works great i was draining every day would drain whole tank sometimes
one thing and i told matt no way the top two allen bolts could be use if trany is in bike not enought room i used
hex bolts so i could get a wrench on them
alot more money than motormite but they actually work
mike
 
Hi Nomadwarmmachine.
I think the unit you point us to on the CNW website is a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation valve), not a anti-wetsumping valve as you suggest. Anti wet sump valves go in line on your oil feed line. They are a low cracking pressure check valve.
These are completely different animals. A PCV valve will not stop wet sumping. It will assist in stopping oil leaks by reducing the pressure in your case at revs.
The CNW one looks great as all Matts stuff does, but I think you would have to split your motor to install it. One for Yamaha xs650's is reputed to work well, goes in your breather pipe in line, no engine splitting.
Stu.
 
1973 850 Commando. I bought a CNW Anti-Wet Sumping valve and installed it on the OUTERMOST of the two oil lines on my bike. It seems to work just fine, and I went for a 45-mile ride this weekend without any trouble. I installed it on the line coming off the the oil tank going into the rightmost tube on the junction block. (This appeared to correspond to the diagram included in the instructions.) Now I am looking at the parts schematic and wondering if I did not install it on the wrong line.

1) Am I supposed to install the valve on the outermost or innermost line?

2) Is the black part of the valve supposed to face the oil tank?

As I noted, I've ridden the bike another 45 miles without any difficulty or breakdown, so it seems to be correct. Just want to be positive. Thanks!
 
Thanks, Cookie! That's a relief. I like your battery holddown solution too. I've been strugggling with those stupid straps and the bar for some time now.
 
I got to respect Velcro a few years back when I was talking to a retired Aerospace engineer. He told me they had used it to hold electronics in Satellites. I have since used it for quite a number of applications from transit buses to trains, it's quite a handy substance.
 
The hold down is a Velcro Strap sold for camping and skiing. There are two bolts on the bottom of the battery compartment on this that hold it on. I made a piece of aluminum that reaches to each bolt and sandwiched the strap under that. I didn't do it on this bike since it didn't need the extra but in the past I've stuck Velcro to the bottom of the battery and the compartment. Home Depot has Velcro in a number of sizes in rolls. Both sides have a very good sticky surface. I've also used it to hold signs up on spa doors and we have used it to hold the sign on the sides of shuttle buses. Handy stuff.
 
Hmmm...if I stuck some good Velcro to the bottom and back of the battery, that should do the trick. Screw the straps and bar. I like that idea!
 
nomadwarmachine said:
Hmmm...if I stuck some good Velcro to the bottom and back of the battery, that should do the trick. Screw the straps and bar. I like that idea!
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I used the original bar, but instead of the straps, used a pair of old spokes. The spoke ends are hooked into the same holes the straps would hook into, a couple of small holes drilled into the bar, near the notches for the straps, and the nipples screwed on, hex side out. The screw slots on the nipple head make a nice detent against the bar to keep each nipple from loosening, and the battery is in rock-solid.

I think many here would have a couple of old spokes laying around. 8)
 
I used the original bar, but instead of the straps, used a pair of old spokes
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That's my favorite solution, too. You do need a spoke thread roller as most spokes are too long.
 
bigstu said:
Don't know of a Commando that doesn't wet sump, unless it has a one way valve in place, or some other mod to stop the oil seeping past the gear sides in the pump. Personally I would not put a check valve in place, as I would worry it may restrict the flow of oil at idle and also it may fail by locking and restricting flow (unlikely, but possible).
If you carefully re-build your pump and keep the crank at TDC after riding, it should not wet sump overnight, mine seems to hold up for several weeks, if not more. I use 20-50 oil.
The most interesting mod I saw was a simple ball type valve that, when shut, the handle covered up the ign switch where the key went in. So you shut the valve when you stuck it away but couldn't get the key in until you opened the valve.
Stu.
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Hey all,i have a ball valve installed in the oil feed pipe which sits under the power socket,this has solved my wet sumping and as long as you dont forget to turn it on no probs,
Wet sumping commando
 
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