Vibration through 'bars on deceleration?

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Fast Eddie said:
“once over with a file” isn’t likely to be sufficient IF this is the issue, in fact, depending on your choice of file, and filing skills, you could make it worse ! You need to polish the tang interface area nicely with some Emery / wet & dry.
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I feel ya. (My kids say that. I think it translates as "I understand what you're saying")

The tangs were good, but in close scrutiny, maybe imagining I felt a slight burr, glanced over them lightly with a file, but in any case I have a spare set of stay up floats if it turns out they're problematic.

Fast Eddie said:
Are you sure your tank and fuel is free of debris ? Perhaps time to invest in some in-line filters ?
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Well, you could be right, and it was discussed previously.

I have spare fuel lines so could add filters. Any particular filters I should try/avoid?
 
Bonzo, this may already have been mentioned, but the float bowl gaskets have been known to foul the floats as they have some excess material near the pivot, so need a bit of trimming.
 
My Norton (and a dozen different bikes) couldn't kill my iPhone, but the H2 did.
Vibration through 'bars on deceleration?
Vibration through 'bars on deceleration?
 
Also note that there is updated guidance on Amal's web site on setting float heights on Premiers. Measuring actual fuel or other liquid level not the float position to bowl lip. Not sure if this also applies to original amals using new stay up floats.
Best to check actual fuel level using clear pipe off the fill or drain openings held vertical against bowl. Use the guidance level amount and adjust stayup accordingly.

If these are older carbs, try giving the float needle seat a polish with something like Autosol on a q-tip spun in a drill chuck. And of course fresh float needles with viton tips should be in use.
 
Tornado said:
Also note that there is updated guidance on Amal's web site on setting float heights on Premiers. Measuring actual fuel or other liquid level not the float position to bowl lip. Not sure if this also applies to original amals using new stay up floats.
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It does and can also be used to set the old white floats (but by raising or lowering the needle seat).
amalcarb.co.uk

Optimising Amal Mark 1 Concentric Fuel Levels | AMAL Carburetters

The Optimising Amal Mark 1 Concentric Fuel Levels page for the AMAL Carburetters website.
amalcarb.co.uk amalcarb.co.uk

"The correct fuel level for all Mark 1 Concentric carburetters is 0.21" plus or minus 0.040" below the top edge of the float bowl."
 
L.A.B. said:
It does and can also be used to set the old white floats (but by raising or lowering the needle seat).
amalcarb.co.uk

Optimising Amal Mark 1 Concentric Fuel Levels | AMAL Carburetters

The Optimising Amal Mark 1 Concentric Fuel Levels page for the AMAL Carburetters website.
amalcarb.co.uk amalcarb.co.uk

"The correct fuel level for all Mark 1 Concentric carburetters is 0.21" plus or minus 0.040" below the top edge of the float bowl."
Click to expand...
'White' floats???
Bet most are brown by now :-)
 
I use the Italian Grand Touring grips (what Emgo Beston grips look like), and silicon pumped into the skinny chrome bars from end to end. It works for me regardless of the expert opinions. My motor vibrates, it's Norton for farts sake, but doesn't really vibrate enough to upset me as long as I stay in shape and keep the quick out and back rides under 300 miles.

I should hunt for a nice set of 7/8" 6" rise Tracker style bars, but kind of forgetful when balancing wants from needs.

I always thought the White plastic floats were Amal Tan.
 
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