Unstable idling when engine is hot - Amal 930 MK1 Premier

Desmopower said:
Could your trouble be in the stock throttle cable set-up ?
I could never get my bike to idle consistently running the stock throttle cables (3 separate cables + splitter)
I ditched the standard set-up and went with Don Pender's carb gantry, super easy to synch carb slides & achieve a consistent even idle. (1 cable)
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@Desmopower
Thank you !
Only 1 cable is a nice option I think.
Can you tell me more ore where can I get some Informations (perhaps Pics) ?

I thought the last Days over if I can do a 2 cable Version ....
 
I be looking at something not right as even with worn slides in old Amals they still can run good if everything else is adjusted right, my original Amals slides wore out really quick from new about ,4 years of hard riding but they still started and ran well only the idle was a bit ifie and had to keep the throttle open a bit to keep it running at stops and all, timing, valves and carbs must be all working together for good running, so something isn't right out of those 3s, I be pulling the carbs down and looking at the pilot circuit first up, make sure both slides are in sink with each other, re check valve clearances and timing, make sure cables are moving freely by opening and closing the throttle quickly.

As I say with you idle doing what you say in your first on something is not right and new Premiers have been noted for swaf to be found blocking the pilot jets, even experts can be caught out with a blockage in the circuit.

Even spark plugs can be bad even new ones, what plugs are you running, my Norton seem to like the Champions better than NGKs, even look at plug leads and all wiring to your ignition as something is not right, slide and cables can be out a bits but still should get it to idle as things don't have to be perfect as close can still and should work.

How long have the premiers been on, do you still have the old carbs.

Ashley
 
ashman said:
only the idle was a bit ifie and had to keep the throttle open a bit to keep it running at stops
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thats the Problem, but in meantime it is much better but not "perfect" (after doing Gregs Guideline)
ashman said:
Even spark plugs can be bad even new ones, what plugs are you running, my Norton seem to like the Champions better than NGKs, even look at plug leads and all wiring to your ignition as something is not right, slide and cables can be out a bits but still should get it to idle as things don't have to be perfect as close can still and should work.
Click to expand...
Tested with NGK (normal & Platin) and Champions N7YC, all the same. Coil (now single Coil https://coloradonortonworks.net/cnw-single-coil-conversion.html), Ignition wire and plug leads new
ashman said:
How long have the premiers been on, do you still have the old carbs.

Carbs 3 years old, now ~3200 miles, no old carbs available
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@ashman
Thank you very much for your input

When it is Spring Time here in Germany I can / will look further ....
 
Tokay said:
thats the Problem, but in meantime it is much better but not "perfect" (after doing Gregs Guideline)

Tested with NGK (normal & Platin) and Champions N7YC, all the same. Coil (now single Coil https://coloradonortonworks.net/cnw-single-coil-conversion.html), Ignition wire and plug leads new

@ashman
Thank you very much for your input

When it is Spring Time here in Germany I can / will look further ....
Click to expand...
Your duel coil comes with resistor HT leads

  • Includes Taylor 8MM Pro wire spark plug leads. This is a high performance resistor wire that wont interfere with your electronics like ignition, charging system and electronic instruments
So no need for resistor plugs or plug caps as they will give too much resistance.
 
Tokay said:
@Desmopower
Thank you !
Only 1 cable is a nice option I think.
Can you tell me more ore where can I get some Informations (perhaps Pics) ?

I thought the last Days over if I can do a 2 cable Version ....
Click to expand...
It's very easy to do a twin cable setup, just requires a suitable twin pull throttle (I use an Italian Tommaselli, lovely bit of kit) and 2 new cables. I used stuff from Venhill and made my own.
 
A long shot;
Voltage sensitive electronic ignitions can cause problems like this when the battery and or charging systems are dying.
Say; if the battery if failing and the alternator cannot maintain the required minimum voltage at tick over the EI will advance and raise the tick over RPM. This could be just high enough to raise the voltage the ignition retards and the RPM will drop. And, by the time the motor is switched off and you've found your meter, and you've accessed the battery terminals the bloody thing might have recovered showing 12v.
Just a thought.
 
cash said:
A long shot;
Voltage sensitive electronic ignitions can cause problems like this when the battery and or charging systems are dying.
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Voltage (with Zener) over a Distance of 84km (52,5miles), Revs: Idle to 6000rpm; End of logging at the right side: Idle for 1 Minute then engine stop an "recovering" of the battery Voltage
Voltage tracked with PeakTech Datalogger 5186
cash said:
Unstable idling when engine is hot - Amal 930 MK1 Premier
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The Pazon should handle the low voltages you are getting but this is only the switching of the low tension circuit, the HT side may be suffering from those low voltages if the battery is also lacking in amps. So you need to sort out the charging/battery side first.
 
kommando said:
The Pazon should handle the low voltages you are getting but this is only the switching of the low tension circuit, the HT side may be suffering from those low voltages if the battery is also lacking in amps. So you need to sort out the charging/battery side first.
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I don't understand this. As I understand it the HT circuit has no connection with low tension, bike running voltage circuit. HT is "powered" only from the collapsing magnetic field of the low tension windings. This induces the very high voltage coming out HT terminal and grounding after spark plug gap.
 
Tornado said:
I don't understand this. As I understand it the HT circuit has no connection with low tension, bike running voltage circuit. HT is "powered" only from the collapsing magnetic field of the low tension windings. This induces the very high voltage coming out HT terminal and grounding after spark plug gap.
Click to expand...
The higher the primary voltage (higher magnetic field) when the collapse happens, the higher the secondary voltage.
 
Tornado said:
I don't understand this. As I understand it the HT circuit has no connection with low tension, bike running voltage circuit. HT is "powered" only from the collapsing magnetic field of the low tension windings. This induces the very high voltage coming out HT terminal and grounding after spark plug gap.
Click to expand...
Think this reads better.

The Pazon only does the switching and will do this down to well below the 10v the Boyer MK3 will have issues with and then over advance. But switching on and off a low voltage/ low amps LT side will give a dodgy HT spark.
 
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