Two New Problems

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Tornado said:
A single barb also found. Does not show what bike these are for nor any dimensions.
Click to expand...

The flexible rocker feeds were listed under three different rocker feed assembly part numbers; 062168, 065052 and 065561 (Mk3 and latest).

The banjos were not listed separately, however, 065561/3 (barbed double) and 065661/4 (single) have the same part number as the late rocker feed line.

andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk
06.5561/4
"OIL PIPE BANJO (SINGLE) 06.5561"
 
Looks like my regional supplier (MotoParts Inc) has those same barbed banjos. Seems like a good solution to hose coming off.
 
While waiting for barbed banjos to arrive, set about cleaning up bike from the oil bath it recieved. Used some enviro-friendly degreaser automotive spray labelled as Machine Cleaner (brit brand, can't recall name). This did a good job getting oil out from between head fins and cases etc. Cleaned that off first with WD40 spray (as didn't want to leave a water based degreaser on fastners etc), then used brake parts cleaner to take off excess WD product.

Next I tackled the oil tank. Removed the broken bracket, it had neatly sheared at near right angle to its length, just before the tank body, so no harm at all to tank. Jammed some foam behind tank filler against the frame web. Removed lower mount bolt and stuffed more foam under tank. Put a zip tie around top side breather spigot near filler neck and around frame spine. Front bracket looks ok but I released the iso nut to ensure it wasn't overly pre-loaded before tightening it up again.
Tank now seems firmly secured with minor movement against foam. Should hold until off season.
 
I would remove the zip tie from the spigot and instead wrap it around the filler neck
 
acadian said:
I would remove the zip tie from the spigot and instead wrap it around the filler neck
Click to expand...
Tried that but could not get it out of the way of filler cap going off/on. Should be OK...its right up next to neck, on the welded area and not real loading on it. just stops it moving around.
 
The Goodrich, IMO is a higher quality than the Venhill. I suggest using standoffs where you think abrasion is li likely. Most hardware stores have them ready to go in the electrical isle.

I purchased 2 Goodrich lines for the extra double banjo fittings so that I could connect an oil pressure gauge.

I was pretty pleased with the work which included the stainless swivel at the gauge. I had the fittings work done by Pegasus Auto Racing. I sent them all the parts and dimensions, excellent work with less than 2 weeks turn around.

My smile faded fast when I added up what I spent, a tad over 600. Another tuition bill. And mistake # 675...

Get one pre-made

Best
 
Long test ride today. No more oil leaks but quite a bit of light smoke from oil residue still buried in between head fins. I also found a wee puddle sitting in one side spark plug hole at my petrol stop...could not see that easily at home in the dark parking garage. Bike gave a great run today...and I now know what Keanu Reeves meant when he said on a chat show that he loves how his Commando smells when its warmed up ;-)
 
Tornado said:
Tried that but could not get it out of the way of filler cap going off/on. Should be OK...its right up next to neck, on the welded area and not real loading on it. just stops it moving around.
Click to expand...
The braided lines turn into hacksaws if they contact anything other than at the ends.
I've switched back to the original nylon type that AN supplies.

Glen
 
worntorn said:
The braided lines turn into hacksaws if they contact anything other than at the ends.
I've switched back to the original nylon type that AN supplies.

Glen
Click to expand...
Yup, though those seem to do better when coated/sleeved with heat shrink etc. Just seem like over kill for close to $200 cdn on something that runs less than 60 psi pressure. I'm planning to fit original (well, air brake hose) nylon with the updated barbed spigot type banjos. Can't see the nylon being a risk, afterall, it was still in place after 45 yrs and likely fine on my bike when I got it. I replaced for good measure then. The line that slipped off the non-barbed spigot was also in great shape (after 10k miles I'd put on it).
 
I used a cup of hot water to heat the end up on a new Commando line that had to be shortened for use on the 650ss. That was suggested by the supplier and it worked well, stayed put.
 
worntorn said:
The braided lines turn into hacksaws if they contact anything other than at the ends.
Click to expand...
Good chance that the various engine surfaces will become the hacksaw on the plastic line? Whether its a wire, hose or cable I suggest that the motorcycle be looked over with an eye to any potential abrasion points and either use (make) standoffs or employ a piece of hose cut lengthwise and cable tied to the contact point; this won't stop abrasion, but buys you time to come up with a better way. New builds need to be looked at for this and many other aspects more frequently.

Best
 
Fast Eddie said:
I gotta ask… is air hose A) oil proof and B) able to handle high temperature ?

Why not use oil line ??
Click to expand...
It is Polyethylene, DOT approved, rated to over 125 psi operating, 1200 psi burst and 120 Cel working temp. Highly resistence to fuel, oil, solvents. I've used this line for 10k miles without issue until one non barbed spigot let it go, this after two rounds of head removal so no telling if the spigot got twisted loose during any of that.
The tubing is basically what was on the bike from original and that held up well for 45 yrs, though this bike had only 8k on the clock when I acquired it. The lines all looked in great shape but I renewed for piece of mind.
 
Tornado said:
It is Polyethylene, DOT approved, rated to over 125 psi operating, 1200 psi burst and 120 Cel working temp. Highly resistence to fuel, oil, solvents. I've used this line for 10k miles without issue until one non barbed spigot let it go, this after two rounds of head removal so no telling if the spigot got twisted loose during any of that.
The tubing is basically what was on the bike from original and that held up well for 45 yrs, though this bike had only 8k on the clock when I acquired it. The lines all looked in great shape but I renewed for piece of mind.
Click to expand...
It is definitely not polyethylene. Polyethylene will not take the heat and slip off as soon as the engine comes to temperature (DAMHIK!) Truck air brake line is Nylon (polyamide) and is much more heat stable (though it will melt). Nylon 6,6 is the most common formulation and has a melt point of 285C. I made up a set of lines 20+ from material a truck mechanic friend gave me and they are still on my Roadster today.
 
Short test ride, pulled off to give things a check. All fine, very slight weep from the rocker feed off the timing chest, more than likely from the (new) "copper" sealing washers. I'm a little skeptical these washers are really full copper as when I anneal them they turn a bronze-ish colour. maybe just plated? Did think about using my small Dowty washers for all the banjo's, but mine are easily twice the thickness (metal area, not the seal) than the normal crush washers...worried about occluding the oil passage in the banjo bolts. Is that a potential issue?
Anyway gave all the rocker banjo bolts a wee bit more nip up. lower one did take a bit more of a turn than other two. Had thse set at 15 ft-lbs as per OldBritts torque pages, though done cold.
Zero sign of any tube line movement from the barbs (two per spigot).
 
Tornado said:
All fine, very slight weep from the rocker feed off the timing chest, more than likely from the (new) "copper" sealing washers. I'm a little skeptical these washers are really full copper as when I anneal them they turn a bronz-ish colour. maybe just plated?
Click to expand...

The original washers were aluminium, not copper.
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton Parts Drawings - Genuine Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts

Andover Norton Parts are the only Norton spare parts in the market manufactured to original drawings, within the factory-approved tolerances, from the correct materials, and with the correct finish.
andover-norton.co.uk

6x Item 38:
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - WASHER (NMT 1084) - 06.7522

WASHER (NMT 1084)
andover-norton.co.uk
They make a better seal between the banjo and head or timing cover than copper.
 
Ron L said:
It is definitely not polyethylene. Polyethylene will not take the heat and slip off as soon as the engine comes to temperature (DAMHIK!) Truck air brake line is Nylon (polyamide) and is much more heat stable (though it will melt). Nylon 6,6 is the most common formulation and has a melt point of 285C. I made up a set of lines 20+ from material a truck mechanic friend gave me and they are still on my Roadster today.
Click to expand...
Nylon plastic brake line do have minor shortcomings....They suffer from "Embrittlement" when exposed/subjected to ...wait for it..."Temperatures" and also when exposed to UV light....Its also keeps production costs down...
When a brake line starts to fail you feel it with excessive travel by foot or by hand...when a oil line fails...you usually feel it in the $ pocket $
 
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