Race bikes, and not Combats, 750 Short Stroke!
But it won't make any difference the same jets do the same things, it may just alter the sizes or needle position a little, but really, surprisingly little! And for the air jet, you are going to narrow to around 0.7 to 1.1.
The Air Corrector Jet, to give it its full name, feeds air to the emulsion tube area....around the needle jet.....the bigger the size, the more air it allows in, hence too large a size causing lean out, but again, this is the one jet that is more rpm related than throttle position, which is what you need to track for every other jet-setting. This is why some people never change it, it seems to work up to WOT, but until the rpms get up high too, you may not notice how weak it is! Hold it there long enough and you surely will!
The size tends to affect and interact more with the main jet than anything else, but by default it has to have some effect around the needle jet, but you would have a job setting it for that unless you are someone like Jim Comstock with a dyno to hand, you are playing with 4 variables at once, needle jet size, needle taper, needle position and air jet.
If you have the Victory manual read it again. It says all you need to know about the air jet.
And read the jetting recommendations for British 4 strokes, single and twin carbs and 750/850, 32/34/36mm bore, you will not find one that uses the factory fit 2.0
The 2.0 is only good for 2 strokes, in fact in some of those, people leave the air jet out altogether! My GT500 Suzuki based race bike has 2.0s.