Tubeless spoked rim

bwolfie

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Sep 21, 2010
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So this Idea has been floating around in my head for some time. I have found someone selling spoked rims, with a flange hanging down for the spoke "l" end to attach to. The nipples are located in the hub.

http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9 ... 3ETP0VzYSQ

Now the ones I had found were over $1000 a wheel for these.

But as my mind works, there must be a cheaper option, and I have found it, Harley hubs, drilled for the nipple end and these rims, plentiful, but limited sizes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251066320067?ss ... 1423.l2649



And Discuss.......
 
Very few spoked rims ever made for tubeless. BMW made their own with spoke nipples outside the air zone. If I was a city only boy I'd of taken easy way out with solid wheels but I ain't so stuck with various sealling methods or device, like Tubless. I might have more flats than average so really like the plug and air ease of tubeless and can attest tubeless goes down slower w/o the blow out ending of tubes.
 
Must be missing something - how are you going to attach those Honda rivvetted-on rims to anything ??

BTW, those Comstar Wheels. Recall going to a GP circa back then, and the Honda pilots were using those comstars - and complaining that the bikes were wandering all over the place.
They didn't track down the problem at the time. Quite some years later, they tried one of those bikes with a different style of cast wheel - and all the steering problems vanished.
Apparen;y, those rivetted-up wheels were flexing - and wandering the steering around.

Maybe they didn't want to try something else, since all the roadbikes were using them - and they were obviously cheap to make...
 
Does anyone know if, apart from the spoke/air-seal issue, there is any other reason that tubeless tyres should not be fitted to rims marked for tubed use?
I also have some [tubed use] cast alloy wheels - so leakage past spokes would not be a problem, & then there is the goop that can be added as a prophylactic anti-puncture method, maybe that would also seal the spoke-type rims for tubeless tyre use?
 
bwolfie said:
I am talking about removing the riveted on part and tossing it., drilling 40 holes around the flange the riveted part attached to, for the "L" end of a spoke and then using a hub like this for the nipple end.
Click to expand...

Drilling holes in the centre flange is going to give you an extremely narrow spread of spokes onto the rim (all in the centre) = no strength ??

Spokes rely on being spaced on the rim to give any lateral strength, the wider the better ??
 
Indeed the porky BMW, Triumph & Guzzi dual purpose bikes all have tubeless spoked wheels, with broad configuration spoke attachment points..
 
http://www.in-motion.it/main.php?langid ... ontText=2#
Sweet but $$$$

J.A.W. said:
.. there is any other reason that tubeless tyres should not be fitted to rims marked for tubed use?
I also have some [tubed use] cast alloy wheels - so leakage past spokes would not be a problem, ...
Click to expand...
I believe the safety bead is bigger on tubeless rims to hold the tire onto the rim. I could be wrong but I have a harder time seating tires on tubeless rims.
Weren't those early cast rims somewhat porous, I remember hearing that they required a coat of epoxy paint on the inside of the rim to keep tire pressure up if going tubeless. Just old hearsay...
 
You can only buy tubeless tires for spoked rims for last couple decades at least. Its air pressure in tube or w/o tube that holds tire on rim. Tubeless rim edges have a bit more space below the bead where extra rubber added to seal tublessly and some have a slight change in valley angles to help keep a flat inside rim but not really much difference between vintage leaking rim and bead clamps still good idea but I've has 2 rear flats at speed and they stayed on rim till I got too freaked
by wind gusts squirely ness and tire heating to point of cumming apart, so pulled over. If ya can seal the spokes then bobbie is your uncle to just carry plugs instead of patches, tubes and tire tools and gain a speed rating higher than tube installed.
 
J.A.W. said:
Does anyone know if, apart from the spoke/air-seal issue, there is any other reason that tubeless tyres should not be fitted to rims marked for tubed use?
I also have some [tubed use] cast alloy wheels - so leakage past spokes would not be a problem, & then there is the goop that can be added as a prophylactic anti-puncture method, maybe that would also seal the spoke-type rims for tubeless tyre use?
Click to expand...

Some cast wheels are porous and leak, the solution, rube down the wheel well and paint well with a couple of coats of paint, if alloy wheel, use a etching primer first.
I did this on a Yamaha 350lc, which came with tubed tyres, but I hade the wheels sand blasted and powder coated, and used a bolt on tubeless valve.
 
bwolfie said:
So this Idea has been floating around in my head for some time. I have found someone selling spoked rims, with a flange hanging down for the spoke "l" end to attach to. The nipples are located in the hub.

http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9 ... 3ETP0VzYSQ

Now the ones I had found were over $1000 a wheel for these.

But as my mind works, there must be a cheaper option, and I have found it, Harley hubs, drilled for the nipple end and these rims, plentiful, but limited sizes.
And Discuss.......
Click to expand...

I want to do the same, but was told by a wheel builder that they cannot do it.
I want to use either a BMW or a MOTO GUZZi tubeless spoke rim , obtained undrilled from the manufacture and drill my own nipple holes to suit my hub, the problem is using a suitable hub.

I think I may have cracked it, obtain a BSA/Triumph Rear Conical Wheel weld on a pair of flanges drilled to suit a BMW/ Moto Guzzi tubeless rim, should fit the featherbed at least.
 
Did the wheelbuilder say WHY they cannot do it ?
Is it that the holes already in the hub will not allow those widely splayed out spoke patterns, or something else ?
 
^^^^


Tubeless spoked rim



Woody does it with KTM hubs...
 
Rohan said:
Did the wheelbuilder say WHY they cannot do it ?
Is it that the holes already in the hub will not allow those widely splayed out spoke patterns, or something else ?
Click to expand...


Sorry, I forgot to mention that the tubeless rim has different number of spokes to standard Norton/Triumph brake drum hubs, which I want to retain, but may find I cannot do so.
 
Dun what works for a bicycle may not for a motorcycle that can spin its wheels fast enough the apparent 'centrifugal' force can lift the strap and deflate.

The webbed run flat tires can not alter their compliance and would be a horrible thing to put on a fast road bike. Foam fill tires are not heat rated for hi way speeds and the tire slimes are a real mess and slings to tire case not the spoke holes.
 
I do get your point, Hobit, tyre sealant was only ever meant to be a temporary “get you home Bodge” -never for permanent repair.

I think I have found a method of retaining a drum brake on the rear and using tubeless tyre.

Here goes, obtain a BSA/ Triumph rear conical hub and brake plate, have a pair of alloy flanges made to be TIG alloy welded onto the spoke flange on the present hub on both sides, obtain a wire spoked tubeless rim from BMW or Moto Guzzi, and get the correct 36 holes drilled onto the welded flanges, and fit spokes to suit.
Then you can fit tubeless tyres like BMW & Moto Guzzi do.
How’s that :?:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... _213wt_958
 
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