Fast Eddie
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- Joined
- Oct 4, 2013
- Messages
- 20,696
Now then chaps, in my experience, Triumph twin cranks are quite strong, but when pushed too far, will break, and when they do, it's usually through the sludge trap, which when you look at it, isn't a surprise as the crank is quite weakened there.
Billet cranks are available but are very expensive and heavy. Personally, I like the 'up to 68' lightweight crank.
I've been toying around with this idea for a bit and thought I'd throw it out there for scrutiny. Here's it is:
The sludge trap is not needed these days with modern high detergent oils and especially if you also use a good filter.
So, remove the sludge trap.
Bore straight through the crank, so you can see all the way through and it's a nice clean bore.
Press in a specially turned up plug that passes all the way through as an interference fit (maybe heat the crank up?)
Drill an oil way down it and cross drill the big end feeds into the oil way.
Now weld up the ends of the pressed in plug, weld over the hole and fill in with weld on both sides so it's part of the crank cheek.
Machine off the excess weld nice and smooth.
Re balance.
Job done.
Am I overlooking something blindingly obvious here? It seems to me you'd have a bloody strong crank for very little cost / effort.
What say y'all ??
Billet cranks are available but are very expensive and heavy. Personally, I like the 'up to 68' lightweight crank.
I've been toying around with this idea for a bit and thought I'd throw it out there for scrutiny. Here's it is:
The sludge trap is not needed these days with modern high detergent oils and especially if you also use a good filter.
So, remove the sludge trap.
Bore straight through the crank, so you can see all the way through and it's a nice clean bore.
Press in a specially turned up plug that passes all the way through as an interference fit (maybe heat the crank up?)
Drill an oil way down it and cross drill the big end feeds into the oil way.
Now weld up the ends of the pressed in plug, weld over the hole and fill in with weld on both sides so it's part of the crank cheek.
Machine off the excess weld nice and smooth.
Re balance.
Job done.
Am I overlooking something blindingly obvious here? It seems to me you'd have a bloody strong crank for very little cost / effort.
What say y'all ??