Trispark test help please

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Good news. I replaced the Pod unit with one with an integral capacitor and so far the issue is corrected. A good half hour run this afternoon and boys, I""ll tell you, she runs beautiful, tracks dead nuts straight, and I am happy to have this machine.
 
" I used dielectric grease on all connections including mating surfaces and discovered it is not a conductor. So the mating surfaces have been cleaned."

FWIW, di-electric grease is not supposed to be a conductor and you should have left it in place. It will "seal" the connection and virtually eliminate corrosion. I does not inhibit the electrical connection which is based on a good mechanical connection. Basically, any vehicle electrical connection can benefit from silicone (di-electric) grease being applied to the terminals BEFORE making the connection. Actually, pretty much any non-conductive grease (which is most greases) will do the job but dielectric grease, being silicone-based does not react with insulation, hoses, and other rubber or plastic parts.
 
Dielectrics are used as electrical insulators.


From Britannica:
  • Dielectric; insulating material or a very poor conductor of electric current.
From Chambers:
  • dielectric physics noun a non-conducting material whose molecules align or polarize under the influence of applied electric fields, used as an essential component of capacitors. adj denoting such a material.


In my opinion, a connector should be cleaned abrasively, then degreased with a solvent.
The connection should then be made ensuring good, tight and secure mechanical metal-to-metal contact.

A dielectric grease is then applied to keep out dirt and moisture ingress as well as to help prevent corrosion.


I frequently see electrical joints slathered in all sorts of gunk, which act as an electrical insulator.
 
Here is some info re this subject; view the various links. I was taught this in US Army tank maintenance school many years ago and again much later in Marine mech schools. One interesting item in this particular article is that they do NOT recommend silicone-based grease for dielectric work which is the opposite of anything I had heard/read until today! ;) https://support.newgatesimms.com/how-electrical-connector-lubricants-work/
 
Napa Sil Glyde is my choice. Not just for electrical connectors, use it on your bayonet bulbs (blinkers, tail light) to keep them from corroding in the sockets. I lube spark plug boots with it too. Also safe for rubber, like greasing iso pucks during installation. Great stuff.
 
I think the point of having grease on the contact surfaces is to ensure no moisture ingress. When the surfaces of contacts are pressed together there will always be metal in contact with metal at the microscopic level as grease will be pushed away. This allows good electrical conductance and keeps it that way in tough environments.
Easy confirmation is to check resistance before and after greasing. If it was detrimental we'd know pretty quickly.
 
" I used dielectric grease on all connections including mating surfaces and discovered it is not a conductor. So the mating surfaces have been cleaned."

FWIW, di-electric grease is not supposed to be a conductor and you should have left it in place. It will "seal" the connection and virtually eliminate corrosion. I does not inhibit the electrical connection which is based on a good mechanical connection. Basically, any vehicle electrical connection can benefit from silicone (di-electric) grease being applied to the terminals BEFORE making the connection. Actually, pretty much any non-conductive grease (which is most greases) will do the job but dielectric grease, being silicone-based does not react with insulation, hoses, and other rubber or plastic parts.
I left the grease on the spade and bullet connectors where there was "scraping" movement. I removed the grease on any mating flat surfaces which were clamped together where the grease prevent a good positive contact such as the grounds and smeared them after they were connected.
 
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