TRI SPARK vs. PAZON (2009)

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PalmerNorton

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I'm ditching my Boyer. It has overheated 4 times on a long road trip. When the engine cuts out on the highway at 70mph something tells me that it's time to find a new solution.

TRI SPARK or PAZON ? I've read some great things about both. Any thoughts on which to choose?
 
I think tri spark is the top of the line next pazon then boyer, rita etc of course thats my opinion I run a pazon had a rita for years only 1 year with the pazon no problems to report .. Doxford
 
Tri-Spark has gotten the best reviews on more than a dozen forums I'm on.

Sparx is a very good solution over Boyer, but don't know that it's in the same class as Tri-Spark.
 
How tough is it to convert from a boyer to a tri spark?...How much work would be involved?
 
I fitted a Micro Digital Boyer to my Commando about 10 years ago and it has never missed a beat or given any problems so I will certainly not slag boyer but after fitting a TRI- Spark to my Trident when I owned it I realised I had just fitted the best ignition system available to our classic bikes. Seeing that I love my Commando and feel it deserves the best parts anyone can offer I decided to fit a Classic Twin to it and i certainly wasn't dissapointed. Fitting is easy, starting requires the slightest of kicks, idles like a clock and she runs wonderfully. My only concern is where all the electronics are located (within the points housing) gets very hot and will that be a reliability issue ? Only time will tell although I am sure the designer took all that into acount.
As for the Pazon I have never tried one so can't comment.
HTH
Best
 
I just did that not long ago. The only problem I think you might have is removing the Boyer rotor. Mine just tapped out and Boyers usually come out easy.
I've never seen any ignition system as easy to install and time as the Tri Spark. There are only two wires to hook up.
I think I posted on the installation in the other classic bikes section. Check out the shaking down an old dog thread.
These guys turned me on to the Ti Spark and now I love it too.
Last night after wiring my battery box area I thould I'd see just how lame a kick I could start her with. I turned on the chokes and gave it the last quarter of a kick with sneakers on. It started right up.
 
I converted from stock to Tri-Spark Classic Twin on my 1973 Commando 750. Very easy to do and the results were remarkable. Easy to start, smooth idle, more power. The bike is now apart for restoration so I can't comment on reliability.
 
so the wiring is fairly the same from the boyer to trispark? Leave the ballast resistor and condensors out?
 
pelican said:
so the wiring is fairly the same from the boyer to trispark? Leave the ballast resistor and condensors out?
Click to expand...

The instructions that come with the Trispark are very good, the big difference from Boyer is that there is no separate black box but the instructions cover that.
I went to a dual output coil at the same time and being electrically illiterate emailed Steve Kelly to check how to handle that - received a fast helpful and clear response which even i could follow.
Have a mate who has fitted a Pazon and he is also more than satisfied with the result.
 
Those Tri Spark guys are great for customer service, but it seems the other guys are too. I did something odd by using two 12 volt 50,000 coils which they had never tried. They were good enough to listen to my reasons it should work and gave me helpful hints. Here is the installation directions.

broken link removed
 
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Anyone ever heard of this ignition?

broken link removed

From what I can understand on their web site, it has advantages the others don't have, the main one being a selectable advance curve. I found this site by chance while looking at a BIY (Build It Yourself) or DIY ignition systems using a PIC chip on this site: broken link removed Then there is this ignition system which looks like the one I made for myself in the early seventies at: http://www.motorcycle-ignition.com/igni ... gnition_q1 this one uses the mechanical advance and only replaces the points with an optical trigger and a power box, nothing wrong with that except I would think 40 years later something a bit more advanced like the first one mentioned (Sachse Electronics) would be more in keeping with the times especially since a good working mechanical or a new advance may be hard to find.

Jean
 
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I was looking at another one that still uses points for another project. Even though it would be an easy conversion I don't think i want to use anything with points.
The one with an adjustable advance curve could be handy for a modified engine.
 
If you are going to fit an electronic ignition, then the points have to go. Not going electronic and to keep everything simple, then I would use a single point on a modified cam with two lobes at 180 degrees apart. I could post a picture of a modified cam sent to me by Per Gadd, his has one lobe so it must have two points, but the same profile at 180 degrees could work with one point. I did that on my brother's Atlas, I took a four cylinder's cam, ground two of the lobes off and had it welded to a stock AA unit. Very simple to time, only one point :-)

Jean
 
In the old days I think you needed dual points for high rpms. These days a single trigger should work fine weather optical or magnetic. I've made up a couple that worked and one using a Crane pickup that didn't. I think that one would work it I ground the cam to points.
 
One thing just occurred to me, when shopping I think the Pazon had a rev limiter. If you were leaning toward racing that could be an important point.
 
I have a rebuilt 850 commando with carbs cables etc was running points
had no problems starting hot or cold would always start within 3 kicks and ran real well
Fitted tri spark 2 weeks ago and these are my findings
starts first kick
will idle after 60 sec warm up
and crisper acceleration from idle
Fitting
All up took about 30 min to install this includes reading the instruction
The LED is real handy to set initial timing but when its all up and running strobe it 28DEG btdc at full advance ( about 4000rpm)
Level of skill required (lets just say if you can adjust your rear chain you will be right to fit a tri spark)
IMO dont stuff arround just buy the TRI Spark you wont regrete it
 
just read over on their site and unless corrected will assume & conclude that tri spark is not a multi spark system,

say like c5
 
My understanding is that both Pazon and Tri-Spark can operate at a lower voltage than the original Boyers, they draw less power and are more stable at low revs and at situations of low alternator output. I ran a bike with a Boyer and it ran well, but if I rode for any length of time with the headlight on, it would eventually start to backfire. Obviously uprating the charging system might solve this problem but Fitting a Pazon completely elliminated this fault and the bike idled more smoothly and went well throughout the rev range. I have subsequently fitted Pazons to any new restoration. I observe that the Pazon is significantly cheaper than the Tri- Spark and I have had no reliability issues with 3 units so far.
 
I've had a Pazon Sure Fire on my bike for six years and about 10,000 miles.
No problems.
Starts easy, runs smooth and to me makes very good power.
Costs less than some so if that is important you won't be unhappy with one.
 
I decided to fit the Pazon Sure Fire 2 years ago because I didn't like the fact Tri-Spark's electronic unit is mounted inside the points cover and therefor subjected to heat and vibration which are not really optimal conditions for an electronic device. So far the Pazon is flawless.
 
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