Tri-Spark and Podtronics compatibility

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I am looking at installing a Tri-spark ignition. I already have a single phase 200 watt podtronics regulator/rectifier installed on my 1972 Commando.
I see a couple of threads on how the Tri-spark ignition is affected by the "noise" coming from the podtronics regulator/rectifier.
This is from the Tri-spark website: "The Podtronics Single Phase Voltage Regulator is not suitable for use with Tri-Spark Electronic Ignitions without the filter. The noise interference is severe enough that it could affect any electronics on the bike."

I know I could toss the podtronics and install a MOSFET regulator/rectifier, but this seems a bit expensive and kind of dumb.
Is this a common enough problem that I should stay away from a Tri-spark ignition?
Do we know if the "noisy" podtronics affects other components, such as a Boyer ignition?
Tri-spark sells a filter to deal with this problem. https://www.trispark.com.au/filter-for-electrical-noise-reduction
Has anybody ever figured out what components live under the cheesy heat shrink wrapper?
 
I am looking at installing a Tri-spark ignition. I already have a single phase 200 watt podtronics regulator/rectifier installed on my 1972 Commando.
I see a couple of threads on how the Tri-spark ignition is affected by the "noise" coming from the podtronics regulator/rectifier.
This is from the Tri-spark website: "The Podtronics Single Phase Voltage Regulator is not suitable for use with Tri-Spark Electronic Ignitions without the filter. The noise interference is severe enough that it could affect any electronics on the bike."

I know I could toss the podtronics and install a MOSFET regulator/rectifier, but this seems a bit expensive and kind of dumb.
Is this a common enough problem that I should stay away from a Tri-spark ignition?
Do we know if the "noisy" podtronics affects other components, such as a Boyer ignition?
Tri-spark sells a filter to deal with this problem. https://www.trispark.com.au/filter-for-electrical-noise-reduction
Has anybody ever figured out what components live under the cheesy heat shrink wrapper?
There are no "components", wire is wrapped multiple wraps in a ferrite "donut". If your PODtronics is real old, there is no problem. If it is newer and made in Taiwan, the filter will work. If very new, the filter probably won't work. I use only Tri-Spark and either their MOSFET or the bridge/Zener so I don't know about other electronic ignitions.
 
Will the "noisy" podtronics reg/rectifier mess up a Boyer electronic ignition?
Not the analogue Boyer MK4 but there is potential for any of the Digital versions, same goes for Pazon who also do analogue and digital versions.
 
I've been running a Trispark since '08, Podtronics with it since '13. No issues whatsoever.

Maybe they made both Trisparks and Podtronics better back then! :)
 
My recent experience:

200W Podtronics and Mk4 Boyer - No problem

3Ph Podtronics and Trispark - No problems

200W Podtronics and Trispark - Issues with missing above 3000 RPM

200W Podtroncs w/ Ferrite Filter and Trispark - would not charge, but fixed missing issue (lol)

35A Bridge Rectifier/Zener Diode and Trispark - No problem, better alternator performance than with Podtronics

FWIW
 
I've been running a Trispark since '08, Podtronics with it since '13. No issues whatsoever.

Maybe they made both Trisparks and Podtronics better back then! :)
I'm pretty sure you have the original PODtronics which had no problem. I don't know the dates but the PODtronics line was sold some time back and as I understand it, the building of them outsourced. The originals I've used had no trouble.

Grant Tiller has more info on this here: https://granttiller.com/regulator-rectifiers-alternators#Podtronics
 
I had a Boyer digital (red box) on my Triumph twin. It used to cut out when ever it felt like it, even though the bike still had the Lucas rectifier & Zener. Fitted a Trispark & all's well.
 
I had a Boyer digital (red box) on my Triumph twin. It used to cut out when ever it felt like it
I had one prone to cutting out after 20 mins in warm weather, problem was using a dual coil with a resistance of 2.9 ohms, changed the coil to one with 3.4 ohms and it never stopped producing a spark again.
 
I had one prone to cutting out after 20 mins in warm weather, problem was using a dual coil with a resistance of 2.9 ohms, changed the coil to one with 3.4 ohms and it never stopped producing a spark again.
That's interesting & one to remember. When mine was playing up I called Boyer & they told me it could be the amp. being too close to the coils/HT leads. Where the hell was I supposed to put it, on the front mudguard? I don't think a lot of products are fit for purpose & buyers are used as product testers.
 
@MexicoMike if you follow the guidance on the installation instructions, things tend to be a lot more reliable.

For example, Boyer specify 3.5 ohms or more - they didn't put that on the page as there was some white space that needed to be filled.
 
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