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We'll settle for a judiciously placed foot . You start booting things , no wonder they come loose and fall off . :lol: :x :wink:
Tip for connecting kickstart to kickstart shaft
- Thread starter Chris T
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With points ya don't have to kick just push it down past TDC and often takes right off at idle. Still Norton has about worse ratio to get the bugger spinning than any other one I know up so far. Maybe weld and end of the lever, drill and tap the shaft and bolt it on tight through its face so the clamp bolt don't have to resist the off centered loads. Of weld on then grind off as a few have done.
Thread creep...
How NOT to kick start a bike.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dg579JIgdEQ
And then there is this method...Hummm.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiJoJfB5PFE
How NOT to kick start a bike.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dg579JIgdEQ
And then there is this method...Hummm.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiJoJfB5PFE
DogT said:Seems my shaft has a relief around the area where the bolt goes through, so there's no need to cut off splines? Notice I don't even have a nut on it, but I keep an eye on the thing and when/if it gets loose, I just tighten.
Of course this is a real old one, so maybe it works?
Dave
69S
It looks like the teeth have been been removed from the lever in an area from each side of the split and not from the shaft....Is this correct?
I also have the dreaded slippage issue and have tightened the lever bolt as much as my scrawny 195 lbs. will allow!
OldBalz said:
After I modified the lever there are a few additional steps that were recommended to me that I think helped make it work.
A bolt from Aircraft Spruce, can't remember the designation but not hardware store stuff.
A hardened plain washer.
Neversieze on both.
Most importantly one of these.
The 25ft-lbs in the manual isn't enough. Maybe it's wear on the splines from being run loose over the years, but I'm thinking twice that. It needed to be re-tightened twice before it took but it's stayed tight for a few years now.
rpatton said:OldBalz said:
After I modified the lever there are a few additional steps that were recommended to me that I think helped make it work.
A bolt from Aircraft Spruce, can't remember the designation but not hardware store stuff.
A hardened plain washer.
Neversieze on both.
Most importantly one of these.
The 25ft-lbs in the manual isn't enough. Maybe it's wear on the splines from being run loose over the years, but I'm thinking twice that. It needed to be re-tightened twice before it took but it's stayed tight for a few years now.
Thanks Bob....I'm an old bike rider and up until now a Japanese bike collector but a "Norton Newbie".
Any and all information on these bikes is greatly appreciated!
Ray
DogT
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OldBalz said:
That's the way I got it, I assume it came that way from the factory. The inside teeth of my lever are pretty sad, the shaft is fine, but I do torque the dickens out of it several times after removing. It hasn't come loose all summer. I agree, plenty of anti-sieze and a longer bar if necessary. I use a 3 foot extension on the breaker bar on my exhaust nolts. 25 ft lbs is not enough, maybe yard tons.
Dave
69S
DogT said:
Thanks Dave, mine did not come that way from the factory, but I just recently bought my 74' and I don't really have much history on it. Both the lever and the shaft have splines/teeth that go around the entire circumference.
I don't know if my lever is original or a cheap knock-off.
Ray
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