I had a bad spindle bore for a few years. Before the notched cover, I had to calculate the position to accurately set the cam chain by measuring many dimensions. Although the bore was badly blown, it functioned fine. My main fear was if the spindle spun and moved the oil hole of the spindle out of the downward position.
Upon swapping cases and doing machining on the replacement, I bored the spindle hole and successfully sleaved the spindlIe. I sold this case set to a member in the UK.
I really think that if your spindle is tight in the spindle bore as it should be, then you should be able to set the cam chain slack without the tool. I think the tool is an aid when the spindle bore is bad until you can split the cases and get the proper repair completed.
That being said, and as cryptically mentioned earlier in this thread (hobot), the reason the spindle bore get trashed in the first place is when idiots jam blocks, or like items, in the timing gears and chain to keep the cam from spinning when removing the cam nut. The unsupported soft spindle bore is then easily wow'ed out.
Upon swapping cases and doing machining on the replacement, I bored the spindle hole and successfully sleaved the spindlIe. I sold this case set to a member in the UK.
I really think that if your spindle is tight in the spindle bore as it should be, then you should be able to set the cam chain slack without the tool. I think the tool is an aid when the spindle bore is bad until you can split the cases and get the proper repair completed.
That being said, and as cryptically mentioned earlier in this thread (hobot), the reason the spindle bore get trashed in the first place is when idiots jam blocks, or like items, in the timing gears and chain to keep the cam from spinning when removing the cam nut. The unsupported soft spindle bore is then easily wow'ed out.