Doesnt solve the issue of how to 'restore' the thread, but:
Copied from the MPL stainless calatolog
"IMPORTANT NOTES ABOUT NORTON FORKS:
1. Featherbed frames used 3 types of yokes for solos;
(a) 7" stanchion centres, all 26 tpi
(b) 7.3/8" stanchion centres, 26 tpi, introduced in 1964
(c) 7.3/8" stanchion centres, 28 tpi, introduced in 1968
As all the above can be interchanged the year of manufacture can only be used as a guide.
2. Norton/Matchless hybrids of the mid '60's used longer 'Short Roadholder' forks. The main
difference is the fork seal holder, our part no. G66, price £35.00 ea.
3.1968-70 Commando models use featherbed type (c) yokes. These have the column nuts
above the headstock, the later models have one nut under the bottom yoke. Early Commando
models also use FW23, FW24, FW25, FW26."
I think stamped circles will denote 28TPI for the 'featherbed style' yokes . This marking will be stamped on the appropriate stem nuts (if from reputable source like MPL and on the OEM nuts I believe). On the ones I got from MPL, the lower nut (below top yoke) had most of 2 circles and the top one (above top yoke) had a single circle stamped on it. I used a 28TPI 'featherbed style' triple tree (from a 750S) on my atlas and it works fine. If I remember correctly, the stem of that triple tree was marked with the stamped overlapping circles (but I cant say if it was 2 or 3 overlapping circles). That might help distinguish the pitch. Took me a while to work out that the circles probably designated the thread pitch. I actually measured mine with a tread pitch gauge.
I have a OIF B25 BSA triple tree sitting on the bench and the botton nut on that (same arrangement as the late commando) has 3 overlapping circles stamped on it. Same thread form/nut??