The Real Way of Hanging the Oil Tank?

I have had a couple of sets of the little rubber isolators break on my Commando oil tank. The last set I got was a really nice stainless steel pair off of eBay. On installation the nut had not even compressed the lock washer before the bolt broke out of the rubber. I have a set ordered from England which claims to be genuine Norton so I hope they work. It is a real pain to change the rear one out after the rest of the bike is already put together. What other solutions are Commando owners using?
Dan.

Do a search here and you'll find the basic mod to make it safe. You can go on Colorado Norton Works web site and see how Matt does it or just send it to him for a very nicely done one, well worth it. Basically a plate is welded or brazed over the bottom where cracks are prone, the bottom mount is no longer used in lie of a thick foam pad for support. I added a clamp around the neck as per Ludwigs drawing several years ago. Great idea. See the recent post titled "mk3 oil tank" for more info. Glenn T.S.

I have reinforced my oil tank, I keep the lower mount, but do add a doubler plate, and use Harley Davidson Oil tank mounts like these http://www.ebay.com/itm/V-Factor-Rubber ... 8d&vxp=mtr

I ended up making my own. I turned down the head on two 1/4 inch bolts. I then made two tubes which I brazed to Two other bolts. I filled the tubes with silicone and inserted the machined bolts that had a nut each loctited in the correct position. Now I have two infallible isolating mounts which at worst, will loose the silicon and have to be refilled again with new silicon.
Backwoods thinking again.
Dereck

Dereck,
This is what a lot of guys are filling busted motor mounts and make special mounts with with. My son used it is his 3.5l Maxima to stiffing up the engine mount. It's been good for over a year now. Was wondering how it would work as isolastic bushing material.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trm-8 ... fgodtZEA7g

Pete

Gidday Dan.
this has worked for me 4 a long time. I have a previous post about this somewhere if you want to search.

Mate, you can spend a little or a lot, both have the same end result. except as I have no flexible rubbers fitted they cannot possibly fail. thats what it comes down to.

What I did applies to a proper side fit oil tank for a 70 Fastback.
If the mounts on 71 onwards side fit tanks are similar, the following should apply.

Misalignment. this should be the first consideration. A lot of fastbacks I have seen, including my own, are badly misaligned at the rear top mount of the oil tank..
For me, I made a new bottom grommet out of nylon that had a thicker flange height and brought the holes in line. the rear tab may also be bent VERY SLIGHTLY and carefully to get good vertical alignment. The rear tab must be parallel to the plate on the frame

By what ever method you choose, the alignment must be checked and the hole in frame and oil tank tab must be made in line.

Once the alignment is done, simply replace the rubber mounts with solid nylon spacers drilled to 1/4 ". the nylon spacer length may even be different to the rubber mount length if you want to go to the trouble of careful measurement.

Making sure the tank pin is sitting on the nylon grommet, mount the tank and carefully tighten the 2 bolts alternatly until tight. Thats it. No welding, or great expense. been that way now for me a long time, no troubles at all

Some comments This method only applies to non damaged tanks. If there is cracks, leaks or damage to the bottom pin or elsewhere already evident , then of course a repair must be made.

but if the tank is aligned and solid mounted, AND the Iso's are functioning, this will not cause damage to the tank anywhere. Mounting bolt holes, rear tab alignment and Iso's are the main considerations to ensure lots of trouble free miles with minimal cost

My bike is pretty smooth and most speeds are 60/70 MPH. The rough patch 1500/2000 RPM approx, is over in seconds. therefore the vibrations that cause fatigue damage are neglible. Point is the Iso's have to work.

I will go and try and take a photo to post here. the advantage of this is it can be done at home by anyone with enough skills to keep their Norton on the road. even if ya need to get the grommet and spacers made, the cost should be minimal.

Anyway Dan, just another option here, as I said mate, your choice. but this does work.
Contrary opinions welcomed.Best wishes Aussie Bradley

On both my Combats troublesome oil tank mounts letting go d/t either metal tabs or rubber mount weakness I solved permanently with a hd Harley Lord mount at top front, a solid bolt at rear mount through frame gusset with a stack of rubber washers on bolt and behind nut for some firm cushioning stability, a split hose on the tank top fin moderately squealed against frame tube as mere stablizer accessories to the real support, a big rubber washer like cushion between tank bottom and battery tray with its hollow center making room fpr the bottom bolt boss, w/o a bolt to no mo leaking fractures.

hobot said:

On both my Combats troublesome oil tank mounts letting go d/t either metal tabs or rubber mount weakness I solved permanently with a hd Harley Lord mount at top front, a solid bolt at rear mount through frame gusset with a stack of rubber washers on bolt and behind nut for some firm cushioning stability, a split hose on the tank top fin moderately squealed against frame tube as mere stablizer accessories to the real support, a big rubber washer like cushion between tank bottom and battery tray with its hollow center making room fpr the bottom bolt boss, w/o a bolt to no mo leaking fractures.

Click to expand...

Gidday Steve. What are you doing Mate. Harley parts on a Norton. Lucky Trixie cant talk.
You seem to be heading down the same road. the split hose top fin mount sounds like something you would do to a John Deer. Just solid mount the lot mate, game over.

I reckon, and I welcome alternative opinion , it is the flexibility that causes all the trouble.

Unless u have bad frame vibration, this works. no welding, tank modifications or great expense.

gee, oil tanks have been mounted solidly way before Isolastics. and yes there were failures due to fatigue caused by excessive vibration.

. But was not one of the Commando's outstanding features smooth vibration free riding. therefore there should be very little vibration transmitted to the frame. Smoothness and solid mounting are not incompatable. Are there a lot of badly vibrating Nortons out there?.
hey all the best Steve. Aussie bradley

A long time ago I worked as a toolmaker for a rubber moulding company. The moulding shop used to turn out hundreds & thousands of these type of Metalastic mounts. The secret to making them stay together, was to thoroughly degrease the metal parts in a Trichlorethylene tank & then coat them with a bonding solution before moulding. I think the AN parts are made this way. Cheapo Chinese knockoffs probably aren't.
The other problem is the grade of rubber used; usually the cheapest shit available. I've lost count of the kickstart & gearchange rubbers that have fallen to bits in a very short space of time.

Metal and rubber fatigue is result of too loosely a supported oil tank so best wishes solving by CNW kit or some other way. Harley Lord mounts are almost identical to Norton issue but a tad more robust rubber element. Trixie runs a Harely front brake line switch and many rubber mounts and Peel and number of other stand out highlighted HD items and hopefully at some point an all Harley 16" rear wheel but may have to move the cush drive function to primary belt tensioner battery charger. Ride with some rather unsociable HD color gangs with ape hangers two abreast through tight twisties to get idea why I have some respect of some isolastic speparate trans air cooled HD's and pilots. If not for Harley may not be so plentiful 19" front tire supply. Still wish Indian had made it through as well.

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=lords+mounts

Matchless said:

A long time ago I worked as a toolmaker for a rubber moulding company. The moulding shop used to turn out hundreds & thousands of these type of Metalastic mounts. The secret to making them stay together, was to thoroughly degrease the metal parts in a Trichlorethylene tank & then coat them with a bonding solution before moulding. I think the AN parts are made this way. Cheapo Chinese knockoffs probably aren't.
The other problem is the grade of rubber used; usually the cheapest shit available. I've lost count of the kickstart & gearchange rubbers that have fallen to bits in a very short space of time.

Click to expand...

Gidday Matchy. Trichlorethylene has been banned for this type of use in Australia for many years. known carciogen or something. U r right about the quality of knock offs though. Made in China has pervaded the whole planet. Aussie bradley

hobot said:

Metal and rubber fatigue is result of too loosely a supported oil tank so best wishes solving by CNW kit or some other way. Harley Lord mounts are almost identical to Norton issue but a tad more robust rubber element..........
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=lords+mounts

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Gidday Steve. hope u r well. I hope you dont dress like a pirate when riding with the color gangs. seems out of touch with your inner hippy mate.
Any way I see u wrote fatigue is caused by loose mounted tank. Exactly. loose mounted . it is the movement that causes damage. so solution is CNW or some other way. mate, solid mounting is one of the other ways. I can appreciate Andover and the other boys being dead against the idea of solid mount. CNW does excellent work and has a well deserved reputation for quality. After all they are businesses, and the Norton world would be worse if they were not here.
My only point here Steve is there are often many very economical solutions that have difficulty in being adopted by "established wisdom".
Hey mate, keep gettin them color boys on the inside through the twisties, u fly the flag for Norton mate. all the best Aussie bradley

After replacing a handful of mounts on my bike I did this. I haven't had a broken mount for many years now. I just modified the front mount. The additional stability has prevented any more problems with the other two [yes 2] mounts. Jim

past Peel & current Trixie's hick-a-billy mounting are 'loosely' rubber mounted at top but so solid on unattached rubber base a fist slam rattles hand bones not the tank so immune to rough stuff and crashes that fracture-cut hands. I know all I care to about getting too close or noticed by bad reputation color gang/clubs d/t P!! and Combats encounters, enough to still enjoy their going fast in opposing lane occasionally as if in England.

I want to thank everybody for their input on this tank thing. I looked at Ludwigs drawing and appreciate Jims input as well as B. Rad's. My take away is that it wouldn't be such a bad idea to mount the tank more solidly than the rubber mounts do if I want to. I'll let everybody know how I sort this thing out.
Dan.

Gidday Steve. hope u r well. I hope you dont dress like a pirate when riding with the color gangs. seems out of touch with your inner hippy mate.
Any way I see u wrote fatigue is caused by loose mounted tank. Exactly. loose mounted . it is the movement that causes damage.

Brad the motion of my '72's factory mounts are the thin flexy struts at top and thin flexy tank bottom with a bolt on a flexy battery tray. My expendient way basically just rests tank on rubber pad so the top straps only hold in place but not actually supporting it yet still very stable. Peel's wrost test happened with all the Ohio rally over loaded camp cargo when easing out of a lunch stop appearily the rear bearing decayed so got a flat tire like whip at 2-3 mph which whipped the top heavy luggage just as a car whipped into lot so braked short but leaning too far to hold up so leaped off to side of fall out the way then realized all possible damage and stuck my foot/-leg under it which protected Peel completely but oil tank temp sensor took main impact fracturing L foot. Oh yeah axle broke on way back so found a over size rental truck I set up 12x16 ft plank ramp to power up and did fine letting off just befor entery, but over looked broke axle shifting engaged rear brake to stop short of entery for, Brit Iron Willey Coyote Blank Uncomprehend Shock, till gradually w/o anywhere to put feet down Peel tipped over landing upside down as I leaped clear. Thinking I've just whimpped out not going in hot enough run it again a few more mph with back of truck zooming cut power to freaking stop short ame spot,, tick tock tick tock SPLAT. 3rd time Wes helped me push inside. I got the best jacket patch there is, Norton logo framed by long white flames across up back. Don't ride with evil gangs, mostly evquivent out laws not socilized enough to want to join or for gangs to put up with. They can ride ape hanger Harleys up/dn steeps that scare me on Peel.

Anyone have the part number for a quality LORD Corp. engineered/manufactured mount which will work in this application. Or, do you know the treads and dimensions of the stock mount off hand so I can try to find a LORD Corp. one?

Here's the source of them originally for aircrasft but Harley version is a tad bigger more robust and all vintage vendors offer Lords mounts.
http://www.westernrubber.com/products/lord-mounts/
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/harley-rubber-mount

I am not talking about lords mounts as a generic term used. Lord Corp. products are copied the world over, but in appearance only -their engineered shock and vibration canceling properties are not equalled. I doubt those inexpensive ones on eBay are actually manufactured by Lord but have sent an email and will soon find out!

Just got a reply from the seller on eBay re. the mounts. No they are not real Lord Corp manufactured products, but generic non-marked copies, so my original question remains. I would guess that many of the oil tank problems would not occur if an engineered, quality part was used instead of a generic one.